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  1. #1
    Hydrotherapy's Avatar
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    Question modding my own riva plate...13r 2005..help

    hi..due to my riva ride plate being twisted and basicly out of its head with twists whoops and dips.. set up on mill and cleaned ride face up retaining rivas angle and flipped over and machined the mounting faces.. here is my question.. when re fitting with shims i belive i get the angled faces either side of ride surface dead flush with shoe but not sure of the best position for the ride face to shoe some say 3mm some say also flush.. origanaly the rive plate was stepped 7 mm and thats what got me machining.. stock is flush and my mates R&d is 2.5 mm.. where is the best results found. also want to put the 5 degree angle i hear about on when fitting is this angle 5 degrees plus the orignal ride angle or subtracted from the riva angle to give an overall angle...sorry if this a dumb question but new boy to all this and know loads of you must know the answer.. great forum and glad i was steared in the right direction by one of your members.. thanks


  2. #2
    MR. SCOVILLE UNIT SUCKMYWAKE's Avatar
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    5 degree angle works the best for the gpr
    Last edited by SUCKMYWAKE; 09-20-2006 at 06:04 AM.

  3. #3

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    The angle is relative to the pump shoe. It is tough to get the Riva plate to 5 degrees ( I know, I tried). If you angle mill the mounting surface (be careful - it is thin!) and angle mill the ride surface, you may be able to get there.

    A small step up from the shoe to the plate is preferable, but flush is OK, as long as nothing is hanging down below the shoe or the hull bottom. A good thing to do is to chamfer the transfer slots and leading edge of the plate so it can't "catch" the water.

    Eric

  4. #4
    Hydrotherapy's Avatar
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    gipper.. all taken in thanks...thought flush would have been best any idea why small step works better.. what point should i take the 5 degrees, im thinking centre of plate.
    Last edited by Hydrotherapy; 09-20-2006 at 07:11 AM.

  5. #5
    GPRPITMAN's Avatar
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    I do not recommend the plate riding surfaces to be flush with plate the sides yes the riding surface seems to be at it's over all best with a step from a 1.5 mm to a 3mm step the reason I suggest the step is handling is much better with the step then flush. If you are just on glass water doing speed runs then you can do flush otherwise put a step

  6. #6
    Hydrotherapy's Avatar
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    thanks gprpitman..will adjust to 1.5 to 3mm..

  7. #7

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    Be mindful of the dead rise angles (angled sides of the plate). They will also create drag and "catch" the water.

    As you are lowering the most forward part of the ride plate to get the 5 degrees that you want, you may have to shave the front portion of the angled sides of the ride plate that comes in contact with the transom plate.

  8. #8

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    Saltygpr13

    Are you riding at sea and in choppy seas? Which are the condition which I ride in most of the time in the UK. If so its hard to beat the stock plate.

    Angled plates work best in glass a WOT above 65MPH conditions. Which is about 3 days a year on the Solent.

    I went down this route and got smoked by a std GP1300 as it stayed hooked up whilst I was bouncing all over the place. So went back to stock and now setting the ski up to handle the chop better rather than worry about top end.

  9. #9
    Kevski

    What kind of angled plate did you have?

    When you went back to stock plate did you find the top end was faster even with a small chop say about 6 or 7 inches?

  10. #10
    txgp1300r's Avatar
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    1200 grate will help in chop but is about 1 mph slower that the 800 grate...I like the light feeling i get w/the 800 grate....here is an experamental plate that i cut on the mill,but have not completly tested.
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