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  1. #1
    Awamori's Avatar
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    Re-Flash results are in...a little let down.

    I have the mods listed below and went for a test run today and here is what my best numbers were:

    Fastest top speed with full to 3/4 tank of gas was 73.3mph. Now... on a what I consider a moderately modified ski, I expected more. I tried different trim positions and made very long WFO passes standing as far back as possible ducking behind the handlebars.

    Max RPM's before my Tiny Tach stopped working were 8155, and I saw a consistent 10.1 lbs. of boost. I'm really at a loss and feel like I may have the slowest ski of the group with the mods I have. I have yet to hear of anyone going this slow with what I have. No need to bullshit numbers, and what it is, is what it is, but I really expected more.

    I know some disadvantages I have are things like: stock ride plate, higher temperatures like 85*, riding in salt (but know where to find glass for speed runs like today), I was really hoping for like 78mph range. I had a nice porpoise going on at top end too.

    Any ideas would be much appreciated because with my set-up I know it should be better than this.


  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Awamori View Post
    I have the mods listed below and went for a test run today and here is what my best numbers were:

    Fastest top speed with full to 3/4 tank of gas was 73.3mph. Now... on a what I consider a moderately modified ski, I expected more. I tried different trim positions and made very long WFO passes standing as far back as possible ducking behind the handlebars.

    Max RPM's before my Tiny Tach stopped working were 8155, and I saw a consistent 10.1 lbs. of boost. I'm really at a loss and feel like I may have the slowest ski of the group with the mods I have. I have yet to hear of anyone going this slow with what I have. No need to bullshit numbers, and what it is, is what it is, but I really expected more.

    I know some disadvantages I have are things like: stock ride plate, higher temperatures like 85*, riding in salt (but know where to find glass for speed runs like today), I was really hoping for like 78mph range. I had a nice porpoise going on at top end too.

    Any ideas would be much appreciated because with my set-up I know it should be better than this.
    IMO, your RPMs need to go up, in which case your speed will go up.

    Stock ride plate is hurting about 2+ mph too.

  3. #3
    Kelly_A's Avatar
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    Your boost seems lower than I'd expect for your stated RPMs.
    B1 is rated 11.5 @ 7700. I realize the dynotune boost gauge is only accurate to +/- .5 lb boost, but I'd think your numbers should be higher at 8155+ RPMs.

    Did you do the install yourself? If so, have you gone back over everything to verify all hoses & clamps are fully seated & tight, the MPP & hose to the BOV are snug?

    Your signature lists a Riva intake grate, but R&D filler - didn't know they were interchangeable. Plus, I thought the original Riva intakes cost speed and were prone to breakage?

    I think figuring out what's going on w/ your lower than average boost pressure & changing the plate would add another few mph?

  4. #4
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kelly_A View Post
    Your boost seems lower than I'd expect for your stated RPMs.
    B1 is rated 11.5 @ 7700. I realize the dynotune boost gauge is only accurate to +/- .5 lb boost, but I'd think your numbers should be higher at 8155+ RPMs.

    Did you do the install yourself? If so, have you gone back over everything to verify all hoses & clamps are fully seated & tight, the MPP & hose to the BOV are snug?

    Your signature lists a Riva intake grate, but R&D filler - didn't know they were interchangeable. Plus, I thought the original Riva intakes cost speed and were prone to breakage?

    I think figuring out what's going on w/ your lower than average boost pressure & changing the plate would add another few mph?
    The DT gauge should be accurate to within .1 psi. You're thinking of the Riva FZ grate. The Riva SHO grates have been fine & mine is slightly faster on top end compared to my R&D grate. The seal kits aren't interchangeable, but R&D has them available for their grate as well as the OEM & Riva.

    +1...look for a boost leak. The clamps on the silicone hose & coupler might need tightened up now that they've been installed for awhile. I prefer t-bolt clamps to the worm gear type. I used small zip ties on the hoses on the BOV & MAP to make sure they wouldn't pop off or leak. Also, check the fittings on the R&D adaptor are sealed well using teflon tape. I'd guess the B1 at 8100+ should be 12-13psi.

    Mike, in my experience the stock ride plate makes it really hard to achieve big top speed gains since it does a really good job of keeping the hull planted. However, there will be a compromise in rough water hookup if you have it machined or go to an R&D plate.

    Another thing to check is the alignment of the grate. It's easiest to do with the pump removed so you can see if the pump shoe section of the grate is centered with the opening in the transom plate. Then use a micrometer to make sure it's straight. I also have the R&D PPK for the Riva grate & when I last removed it I noticed the rubber inserts weren't sitting flush any longer which made it impossible to get the grate aligned. I made the mistake of gluing the inserts in with silicone which made them pop out a bit after the silicone dried. I ended up cleaning all the silicone out of the cavities with acetone & then sanding down the rubber inserts with a die grinder so they would sit flush...the grate is squared up much better now. If you end up having to remove your grate, make sure you seal the shoe in good with silicone to help prevent cavitation. Some silicones seem to expand a little as they cure, so a trick I use is to put a car jack under the grate to keep it from shifting as the silicone dries. Also, retorque the bolts once or twice after it sits for awhile. You may also want to pull the transom plate & reseal it to make sure you're not sucking air. It will cause more holeshot cavitation & a loss in top speed if the soft OEM sealant has blown out anywhere.

    Don't be bummed dude. It's just a matter of finding your gremlins now & your speed will come up nicely.

  5. #5
    lets race.... mikeFZR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjh3ides View Post
    Some silicones seem to expand a little as they cure, so a trick I use is to put a car jack under the grate to keep it from shifting as the silicone dries.
    what silicone did you use? I was planning on using 3m 4200

  6. #6
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeFZR View Post
    what silicone did you use? I was planning on using 3m 4200
    4200 fast cure

  7. #7
    lets race.... mikeFZR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjh3ides View Post
    4200 fast cure
    I'll keep a look out for any expansion. Thanks for the tip

  8. #8
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeFZR View Post
    I'll keep a look out for any expansion. Thanks for the tip
    No problem man. Search the 2-stroke section for "sealing pump shoe" & you'll find endless info on the topic.

  9. #9
    Bounty Hunter Carlos Thomas's Avatar
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    I don't think 13/24 is the right pitch. Depitch that bitch.

  10. #10
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos Thomas View Post
    I don't think 13/24 is the right pitch. Depitch that bitch.
    Once he figures out why his boost is low the rpm's will come up. I turn a 13/23 @ 8300+ with a C1 & smaller IC, so I really doubt it will be tall enough with his setup once his issue is resolved. Better to fix the problem than the symptom.

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