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  1. #1

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    O.K. I'm CONFUSED

    I first want to say Thank You. You have all been a great help and from everything I've read so far a wealth of knowledge. I've already told several local guy's that I know about the site. None of us had any idea it existed, just glad a local mechanic told me. It is a lot less expensive to learn from someone elses experiences and I want you to know I appreciate it.

    Back to my confusion: I have read several threads about thermostats.
    Not sure if all models react the same. I have 95 SLT 750's, should I run the thermostat and take the risk of failure and clogging or not. and If I remove it do I remove the bypass spring and valve? Is there an aftermarket solution?

    So far I have cleaned the carburetors replaced diaphragms (all three on one ski) the others appeared to be fine. Performed pop off test.

    Installed triple pumps on all three. however not sure of where I installed them, I read tonight that they need to be above the vacuum supply. Can anyone explain that?

    Checked the fuel line, has good flow not dry rotted any where. I believe it has been replaced, its not the gray tempo line that I've read about.

    Auto cocks have been removed.

    Fuel shut off valve, cleaned and replaced the o-ring

    Pulling the fuel tanks for inspection is on my list to do and looks to be the hardest.

    What do you believe should be next?

    Is there a way to check the reeds without pulling them? I read that you can look for fuel blow back in the carbs and that a little is okay but not a lot. Can't find that on my tape measure, untrained eye. Would bad reeds show up as bad compression. IDK When I had the carburetors off I used a small mirror and looked at them didn't notice anything but would have I, if there was any damage?

    One more thing, I was looking at a genesis but decided the electronics was out of my realm. What do you guys think about a 96 SL 900 ? I heard that was the first year they used that engine is there a lot of bugs with it.
    Overall good ski or stay away from it?

    Thanks again


  2. #2
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=bogart;


    Installed triple pumps on all three. however not sure of where I installed them, I read tonight that they need to be above the vacuum supply. Can anyone explain that?

    Checked the fuel line, has good flow not dry rotted any where. I believe it has been replaced, its not the gray tempo line that I've read about.



    Pulling the fuel tanks for inspection is on my list to do and looks to be the hardest.

    Did you make a typo when you said you installed 3 triple pumps for the carbs? or did you mean you installed 1 triple pump for the carbs? If its just 1, which diagram did you use? I see you axed the auto cock. thats correct..

    I dont think there are grey tempo fuel lines on a 95 slt..(you may have) mine are black,, But I replaced the fuel lines with the clear blue lines.

    Check the lines in the tank. they are famous for rotting and swelling up and letting go of the fuel pick up screens attached to the bottom of the pickups.. they fall off sometimes. The longer hose is the reserve line and the other shorter hose is the main.

    Is the restrictor still in the return line? you need that to build fuel pressure. it has a zip tie holding it a half inch off the fuel rail going to the tank.

    to explain the Vacumn line... Its not a vacumn. its a pulse fitting.. when the engine turns over, it make a pressure pulse out of the crankcase and into the pulse line which transmitts the pressure pulse to the carb diaphrams and makes it push against it and that is what makes your ski get gas to the cylinders..

    The Fuel pump should be above the pulse line, not below it(if its to low in the hull, it could suck up leftover gas/oil/ in the crankcase and that would stop the pressure pulse and you would end up running lean).

    The pulse line should be under 12 inches. mount the pump a few inches above the pulse line..

    any pics of the fuel system setup? if we all have pics to see, we can point out whats what.


    Maybe 1 of the other members can help with the reed diagonisis. if your hear a pop thru the carbs, that could be a possibility they are bad.

    check tha gas cap for cracks. they are prone to cracking. the cap on the tank, not the outside fill cap. but yeah, check that too. Theres a list of updates that polaris put out on all the skis. you can look it up and check the list against your ski.

    The others can answer the questions about the reeds and thermostat.
    did you buy just diaphrams for the carbs or the whole kit? if its a kit which one? some come with new needles and seats, gaskets and diaphrams.
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  3. #3

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    Thanks for the response, still need help please

    Thanks for the info.
    To clarify I have three SLT 750’s I put 1 triple pump on each.
    The restrictor is in the fuel line just about an inch from the carburetors on the return side.
    The pulse line is less than 12” but not sure of the elevation in relationship to the fitting I’m going to look at that today. I'll try to get a clear picture also.
    No popping thru the carbs.
    Not sure what his name was but the fuel line diagram came from a thread posted on here he also attached a photo darn sure he has it right. 1 line to each carb installing a plug on the pto and center carb.
    Question: Why can’t I leave the fuel pump mounted to the bottom of the flame arrestor? I read on one of the threads to mount it to the hull and get it off the engine not questioning anyone’s wisdom just want to understand.
    And yes your right I am going to have to bite the bullet and pull the tanks. Is there any advise that would make it easier than it looks?
    Last edited by bogart; 05-12-2010 at 08:23 AM. Reason: forgot something

  4. #4
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    I think,, dont quote me,,,, but its for keeping vibrations away from the fuel pump. If its mounted on the hull webs below that area, it wont be subjected to constant vibration.

    I think that was probably BEERDARTS diagram on here you were looking at... Yes, that is the correct diagram.

    Ok i see ya have three skis in the armada huh? Wow, I see you have the addiction also. .. Most of us do!. They are great skis arent they?

    There is no cure by the way.

    I dont think you have to pull the tank out. Just siphon all the gas out and pull the lines out and clean the little bit of whatever is in there. Then you should be good to go. Use a clear line so you dont eat any gas!.

    just a thought,,,, if your using new lines and they came all curled up when you got them, if you dont secure the metal screens on them when you put them back in the tank, they will still curl a little in the tank and you will have fuel delivery issues.. Make sure the screens are put back on.

  5. #5

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    I think they're awesome

    Yes it is addicting, best thing is I'm not looking for a cure.
    Didn't know I could accomplish what needed done with the tanks without a complete removal. That's good news.
    Do you have an opinion about the 96 SL 900?
    Thanks again

  6. #6
    blegan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    I think,, dont quote me,,,, but its for keeping vibrations away from the fuel pump. If its mounted on the hull webs below that area, it wont be subjected to constant vibration.

    I think that was probably BEERDARTS diagram on here you were looking at... Yes, that is the correct diagram.

    Ok i see ya have three skis in the armada huh? Wow, I see you have the addiction also. .. Most of us do!. They are great skis arent they?

    There is no cure by the way.

    I dont think you have to pull the tank out. Just siphon all the gas out and pull the lines out and clean the little bit of whatever is in there. Then you should be good to go. Use a clear line so you dont eat any gas!.

    just a thought,,,, if your using new lines and they came all curled up when you got them, if you dont secure the metal screens on them when you put them back in the tank, they will still curl a little in the tank and you will have fuel delivery issues.. Make sure the screens are put back on.
    Are you having trouble getting the tank out ? I have a 94 750slt & out of all the tanks Ive pulled this was bye far the easiest, & I would suggest just pulling it so you gan get a good look ata entire fuel sys.the pick ups are prone to rought off in tank.
    Good Luck Brian

  7. #7
    ryandi2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogart View Post
    Yes it is addicting, best thing is I'm not looking for a cure.
    Didn't know I could accomplish what needed done with the tanks without a complete removal. That's good news.
    Do you have an opinion about the 96 SL 900?
    Thanks again

    the sl900 you might need the update ignition kit.. you will need to redo fuel lines and clean carbs..

    but you would like it.. good power and you can easly turn it to a 1050.. thats what i have and love my sl1050

    you can do so with a jug and piston swap.. and a little more.. but wont take much

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogart View Post
    ...Back to my confusion: I have read several threads about thermostats.

    Not sure if all models react the same. I have 95 SLT 750's, should I run the thermostat and take the risk of failure and clogging or not. and

    If I remove it do I remove the bypass spring and valve? Is there an aftermarket solution?

    Don't worry excessively about the thermostat. They generally don't give a lot of trouble.

    Take the housing apart and visually check for contamination or other problems. Look at the bypass plunger, make sure it is not badly worn or sticking.

    If you want to check it, put it in a pot of warm water with a thermometer. Slowly heat the water, and you should see the thermostat open at around 143F, give or take.

    Make sure the seal is still good, and put it back together. These 2-stroke engines run best with an engine temp of around 140F, which is why the thermostat is in there to begin with.


    ...Auto cocks have been removed.
    Did you cap off the fitting on the intake where the auto-cock was connected?

    Fuel shut off valve, cleaned and replaced the o-ring

    ...Is there a way to check the reeds without pulling them? I read that you can look for fuel blow back in the carbs and that a little is okay but not a lot...
    Generally the reeds in one cylinder would fail more than another. If all three carbs are showing about the same small amount of fuel 'misting' or 'blow-back', then the reeds are probably OK.

    Be careful about look straight down into the carbs with the engine running. Wear safety glasses.

    One more thing, I was looking at a genesis but decided the electronics was out of my realm.
    Your choice, of course. I like the Ficht fuel injection system. Once the initial problem is sorted out, they tend to be easy to maintain, and fairly reliable.


    What do you guys think about a 96 SL 900 ? I heard that was the first year they used that engine - is there a lot of bugs with it?
    Overall good ski or stay away from it?

    Thanks again
    The domestic engine from Polaris has been a solid product since it began. Very few mechanical changes over the following years.

    The initial 1996-1999 CDI ignition systems turned out to have reliability issues. Polaris issued an Ignition System Update Kit, which includes a new Generation III magneto stator and updated CDI. Cost is around $300.

    With an updated ignition, the 900 engine is a strong, fast motor. It has the same internals as the 1050 version, and is only rated about 10HP less than the 1050.

    Polaris did update the hull and upper deck design for 1997, so the 1996 SL900 model has the older 'look'.

  9. #9

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    Took a few pictures

    I hope these pictures help. It looks to me, the fitting on the pump is only about an inch maybe a little more than the fitting on the block. The line does curl up a little higher don't know if that counts for anything.

    The fitting for the auto cock: They were already removed. There is a nipple on the intake (pto cylinder) that is plugged. There are no fittings on the carburetors other than fuel.

    Speaking of that, the polaris manual says to hook up a manometer or vacuum gauges in order to synchronize the carburetors I have no vacuum fittings on the carbs. I did follow the instructions for manual synchronization and was very annal about it. Don't know what else I can do.

    I will inspect the thermostats and pull the fuel tanks if the weather will ever cooperate. Can't get them into the garage right now. Have a massive project underway with my bass boat. Pulled the rub rail lifted off the entire top of the boat with a buddies crane, gutted it and almost have it rebuilt. Came to learn I don't like fiberglass much. It's been quite the experience.
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  10. #10

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    No fuel lines in gas tank

    Just pulled a gas tank, and instead of fuel lines and screens I found an alluminum sending unit and hard lines all in one apparatus. Was hoping to find a fix for my fuel guage is there a common problem with this thing that can be addressed?

    Thanks, Bogart
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