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  1. #1

    1999 XLT 1200 Engine Rebuild

    Ok, here is my story. I bought a used 1999 XL1200 Limited off a guy on craigslist and I found out that the 3rd oil line fell off and fried the piston. I was stupid and met the guy in a White Castle parking lot to buy it, so lesson learned I guess. I was pissed at first when the dealer quoted me $4,300 to replace the engine with a SBT engine, but I read on here and pwctoday and figured out that I really need to do most of the upgrades anyways. I have everything out except for the actual engine and I'll post pics of the cylinder and piston. I was told that I can flush it out several times and it should be good, but I guess I'm looking for a second opinion. I have flushed it 7 times and I'm still getting very small metal particles, so give me whatever advice you have. I would prefer to not split the case, but I'll fo it if that is what everyone recommends.

  2. #2
    I should add that I have ordered all the parts and should have it running for around $450 or so, but I also bought the d plate, pump plug kit and ride plate. I am converting this ski to pre mix and I picked the wave eater clips and couplings. The carbs are going to Bill for a rebuild, so I'm looking for input on opening the cases.

  3. #3
    Kinda want some reinforcement that flushing it will clear up the problem. The pics r a little weak, but part of the piston is missing.

  4. #4
    zx11rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Cape Coral
    Quote Originally Posted by lagernuts View Post
    Kinda want some reinforcement that flushing it will clear up the problem. The pics r a little weak, but part of the piston is missing.
    Well you answered your question after flushing it 7 times you are still getting bits of the piston coming out I would pull the crank change the crank seals and clean and inspect it then reseal the cases with 1211. When you lost that piston the metal went all over the crank and bearings so you dont want any left in there.

  5. #5
    Is there a trick to getting the engine mount bolts loose? When I try to turn them, the whole mount starts to move. Do I need to heat the bolts up?

  6. #6
    I actually used a cheap little flusher for the first 4 flushes. I think it is for sucking gas out. I now have a bigger oil pump that does a much better job and I am only finding 1-2 little metal particles when I run the magnet around in the cylinder. I'm going to do it 2 more times with the larger pump and see if there is anything left. If not, then I'll probably take my chances and throw it back together. Tell me if I'm stupid...I can take it.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    LISTEN TO ZX11 Pull it, inspect it,clean and reseal everything, new gaskets and crank seals and then preassure test and send those carbs to Bill. I am rebuilding my xll now and just got my carbs back from Bill and I didn't even recognize. He does great work. Do these things and you spend very little money or youll end up spending your 450 multiple times. I got a few power adds left over from my build if you decide to go that way. I just turn my mount bolts until the came loose.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Bullhead City AZ.
    I guys well First off the dealer is going to try to make as much money as they can off you 4300.00 a lot of money for a bunch of parts changers there Not Rebuilders.

    On the Upgrades I live and work on the river and we all love to FAST but if this is your only Ski donít mess with it simple bolts onís only is the way to go you donít want to be floating down river wishing you left it stock.
    A lot of people and even dealers think that they can FLUSH the lower end out and get all the little particles out WELL THERE WRONG after 33 years in this Industry I have never seen that happen you never get them out without splitting the cases and cleaning the particles out there are to many areas that particles can hide like around the seals and main bearings.

    SO after hearing everyone say this and customers asking me to do this I thought lets TEST it so I had a engine that had the something going on like yourís so I pulled the engine out of the hull and flushed it and flushed blow it out with air and flushed 8 to 10 times until I thought is may work once I thought I was done I pull the engine a lot to Inspect the job I did and there where tons of little areas that had lots of particles in and around the main bearings and seal areas.

    With that being said spend the time and do it RIGHT your Yamaha 1200 is a very high HP engine and is very costly to repair 2 times.

    Now if your looking for a Very Good rebuild guy I have used the same guy for 13 years now for cranks and engine I buy well over 100 cranks and engines a year from them there very good check out they have a FAST turn around time and they have FREE RETURN SHIPPING and 10% off for GreenHulkers here is a links to the Yamaha 1200



    I hope I helped GOOD LUCK

  9. #9
    Ok, I wanted to avoid opening it up, but I don't want to regret it later. I'll work on it this weekend and wait to buy parts/seals til i figure out where I'm at. Stupid question here and I'm sure I'll find my answer as I research, but is it hard to line everything up again and get it sealed up? Will the marine caulk cover any air gaps?

  10. #10
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Elephant Butte New Mexico

    if you don't want to be doing this twice or more

    have somebody who has some xperience build your motor. Trust will be well worth the extra few bucks you if you don't..those pistyons and gaskets start running into some really money 2nd or third time around.

    Little bits of metal turn into bigger problems quick..just like in the remake of the day the earth stood still

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