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  1. #1

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    Oil coming out of my exhaust..

    Hey guys i just got done changing all my gray tempo lines and rebuilding my carbs on my 951 GTX. When i first went to go start the engine it seemed like it wasnt getting enough fuel so i turned out the low speed screws alittle more and started right up. Now i have oil coming out the exhaust and the motor will not stop revving up on its own..any suggestions?

    951 Seadoo GTX
    Carbs 95 low jet 165.5 main
    stock needle and spring
    Flame arrestors
    Low screw 2 turns out
    High screw 0 turns out

    Thanks guys!!


  2. #2
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    its running away on you, you mean once you kill it it revs out of control?
    means you're idle too high and it might be lean on the low side, to stop the runaway you must pull the choke all the way or else you will blow a hole in the piston, 951 are known for running away, I had it happen to me 2 times.

    Oil coming from your exhaust could be normal IF its the first time its been cranked, it could just be crud thats falling out off the exhaust pipe and waterbox, It could just be waterized carbon, It could also be that the seal where the counterbalance cavity is leaking into the lower cases, the counterbalance cavity contains some gear oil this is to keep it lubed, Is this a SBT engine??? If it is that could be the problem, if your cavity is letting oil into the cases then you must remove the lower case and clean them up and resealed them with Hondabond, Kawibond, or threebond1211. I used Permatex Aircraft sealant, its a white bottle. reseal them and refill the counterbalance cavity with gear oil again.

  3. #3

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    Yep thats it...it keeps running away from me. And yes it is a SBT motor i have been hearing a lot of bad things about them lately. One problem i do have is that i got rid of the choke system and put a primer kit. If that is the problem with my cavity letting oil into the case do you know if that would void my warranty taking apart the lower case? i have the SBT 2 year no fault warranty.

    Thanks ultramax!

    oh one more thing everyone says 1 1/2 turns out for low screw and 0 out for the high screw. I dont want to run to lean and blow my engine.
    Is that right for my set-up? i have prok flamers with stock spring and needle 95 low jets and 165.5 high jets.

  4. #4
    mibunkerking's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultramaxracing05 View Post
    its running away on you, you mean once you kill it it revs out of control?
    means you're idle too high and it might be lean on the low side, to stop the runaway you must pull the choke all the way or else you will blow a hole in the piston, 951 are known for running away, I had it happen to me 2 times.
    happened to me a couple times also. another way to kill it is to pull the throttle. the added gas floods the cylinders drowning the lean condition/glow pluging.

    this could be do to a airleak, improper cable adjustment, carb malfuntion or a combination.

    also, are you premixing or still useing the oil injection? if premix, what mixing ratio are you useing?

  5. #5
    mibunkerking's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sbgplayer88 View Post
    Yep thats it...it keeps running away from me. And yes it is a SBT motor i have been hearing a lot of bad things about them lately. One problem i do have is that i got rid of the choke system and put a primer kit. If that is the problem with my cavity letting oil into the case do you know if that would void my warranty taking apart the lower case? i have the SBT 2 year no fault warranty.

    if you determine that this is your problem, i would pull the motor and send it back. i doudt this is your problem.

    Thanks ultramax!

    oh one more thing everyone says 1 1/2 turns out for low screw and 0 out for the high screw. I dont want to run to lean and blow my engine.
    Is that right for my set-up? i have prok flamers with stock spring and needle 95 low jets and 165.5 high jets.

    you took off the the accel. pump right?

    .

  6. #6
    speedskixp's Avatar
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    The run on is common after rebuilding carbs and replacing fuel lines. Once the carbs are fully primed it should go away. As mentoned if you cant choke it then give it wot when it happens to shut it down.

  7. #7
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedskixp View Post
    The run on is common after rebuilding carbs and replacing fuel lines. Once the carbs are fully primed it should go away. As mentoned if you cant choke it then give it wot when it happens to shut it down.
    +1

    All you had to doo was pull out the choke. And continue doing so every time it started to lean rev. Oil out the exhaust is normal.

  8. #8

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    Thanks for all the input guys. And yes i did remove the accle pump.

  9. #9
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    Your jetting may be too lean on the bottom if you have removed the accel pump and the chokes (assuming that you actually took the choke plates off the carbs).

    I have not ever run them like that but I am pretty sure they say to up the jet if the chokes are gone. Perhaps a 100 pilot would be better. I would suggest going back to 1.5 turns on the LS if you do that and work from there.

    That said, in this case I would suggest you leave the LS screws at 2 and re-set the idle. Back the idle screw all the way off and then set it to where it is just off the plate. Then go 1 turn in and try to start the boat. It probably will not. Turn the screw in half turn increments until it starts.

    The idle will be very low at that point, probably loping. Turn it back off and set it up to run on the hose (remember, engine on, water on, water off, engine off-never have water running when engine is not). Start it and get the water to it. You can then go ahead and turn the idle up to around 2500 or so and give it a minute or so to warm up. Then tweak it to you final desired RPM (on the hulls with reverse I set them at about 2800 on the trailer so the wife can pull the handle more easily but it is your choice-this puts it around 1350-1450 in the water).

    Then set it in the water the next time you ride. Make sure it is warmed up.

    There is a bit more to do on that but this is long enough already. Just note that when you have the screw right it will drop right to idle RPM when you close the throttle to slow down off a plane. If it wants to hang up about 2000 until it slows down the idle screw is open a bit too much. Turning it in 1/8 or so will not slow the idle much but will richen it up a bit.

    Also, as RQ said, black oily stuff in the exhaust is normal, more so with the larger pilot jets. If it runs away again you need to pump the hell out of the primer since you do not have choke plates or accel pumps that is the only way you will be able to richen it up and stop the runaway.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Sbgplayer88 View Post
    Yep thats it...it keeps running away from me. And yes it is a SBT motor i have been hearing a lot of bad things about them lately. One problem i do have is that i got rid of the choke system and put a primer kit. If that is the problem with my cavity letting oil into the case do you know if that would void my warranty taking apart the lower case? i have the SBT 2 year no fault warranty.

    YES--- If you even so much as turn one Head Nut (Not kidding) it will void your warranty w/ SBT--Best thing you can do is call them and set up and exchange for the short block--if it's still covered....

    1 /12 turns out for the LS's is correct, anything more and you wont have a proper start-up and idle (out of water @ 3000rpm)

    If you have a "run-away" engine, there are a couple possibilities for that including an improperly set up Carb.

    Here is what works:

    947 With PROK F/A's
    USING Accel Pump

    MAIN=167.5~170
    PILOT=85
    N&S=2.3
    65 Gram
    P-Off=15
    HS=1/2 MAG and 3/4 PTO
    LS=1 1/2

    Counterbalance Shaft leakage is not your problem, but an air leak probably is.... Be sure the Carb. Gaskets are properly centered and sealed when you re-assemble your engine. If an Engine comes form SBT (or anywhere for that matter) I always do a pressure check of the Cases and Exhaust System before I build it it up into a Long Block. To be sure, a Air Leak in your Cases will most definitely cause a "run-away" engine and no amount of Carb. tuning or anything else will stop it until you fix/replace the source of the leak.

    ---DvD
    _________
    Carb(s).
    Thanks ultramax!

    oh one more thing everyone says 1 1/2 turns out for low screw and 0 out for the high screw. I dont want to run to lean and blow my engine.
    Is that right for my set-up? i have prok flamers with stock spring and needle 95 low jets and 165.5 high jets.
    ...

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