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  1. #1

    '95 SL 750 Resto/Repair

    Hey guys,

    I purchased myself a "95 SL-750 that needed some help. I just finished restoring a 19" Glastron on iboats.com and I need a new project. So here we have it. I document like you would not believe and i also shoot a video diary that I post on youtube. If you have a couple of hours to kill check out my boat rebuild there. So anyway here is goes.

    What I found on the tear down

    1. The Mag cylinder was repaired previously and the used the Old jug that had major scaring and would not let the rings seal.

    2. Brand new Triple output fuel pump

    3. Converted to pre-mix

    3. Impeller looks good

    4. Compression on other jugs is perfect

    5. A washer sitting on the Mag reeds that looked like it wen through the sycle once or twice.

    6. Many of the reeds are chipped.

    7. Many of the fuel lines feel old and hard. they are not grey, but are black. Still they look and feel old.

    Here is what I need to do.

    1. Check the crank index. (I am still having a hard time finding out exactly how to do this)

    2. Replace the Mag jug and piston

    3. Check the crank for wear.

    4. Re-install and go have fun.

    Have I missed anything? It is getting late and I cannot think of it all right.

    Anyway here is the first of many videos. BTW is there any way to embed a youtube video here?



    And some pictures.

















  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Nicely done video - good start to the project thread
    Quote Originally Posted by friscoboater View Post
    ...95 SL-750...

    6. Many of the reeds are chipped.
    Replace the reeds

    7. Many of the fuel lines feel old and hard. they are not grey, but are black. Still they look and feel old.
    Replace the fuel lines, and the fuel filters

    Here is what I need to do.

    1. Check the crank index. (I am still having a hard time finding out exactly how to do this)
    Remove all spark plugs. Position one cylinder at TDC. Measure/compare the distance of other two pistons down from top of cylinder head (spark plug hole).

    Position next cylinder at TDC, Measure other two pistons.
    Same for last cylinder.

    Each measurement should show both pistons at the same distance down from the head.


    ...Have I missed anything? It is getting late and I cannot think of it all right.

    The jet pump bearings should be checked for slop or roughness. Should spin with zero slop, noise, or gritty feel.

    If you remove the tail cone from the stator, there should be no water in the center bearing area.

    Also check the stator vanes for damage, and the impeller blades. Blade clearance to the surrounding wear ring should be under .020 inches, and .010 or less is better.

    Since the engine will be removed, you might want to check the engine to jet pump alignment when you put it back together. Requires an alignment tool. Might be able to borrow one, or buy one.

    ...is there any way to embed a youtube video here?
    Just paste in the raw http youtube link - no tags or formatting, just the link itself.



    Replace that old-school drain plug with a modern captive type.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  3. #3
    Thanks for all that great info. I will check the index tomorrow.

    I had to take down the first video due to an error and I am going to re-upload it later.

    Meanwhile here is a new one.




    I still cannot get the video to show here.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by friscoboater View Post
    ...Meanwhile here is a new one.

    The fixed vanes/blades in the jet pump stator are damaged. I can see chunks missing, probably where rocks went through the pump.

    The Fuel/Water separator is generally not a problem, as long as it is in good condition. The sealing in each piece of the fuel system needs to be air tight, as the fuel system is under suction between fuel tank and pump.

    Remove and clean/rebuild the fuel selector valve. New O-ring, lightly greased, and re-assemble.

    The fuel system does have one-way check valves in the venting, as you found. One of the rubber exit vents on the upper hull is for the fuel tank. The other is a vent for the battery nipple, if your battery has a vent nipple.

    I recommend only using factory sealed AGM type batteries, which don't use a vent.

    Oil residue in the exhaust ports is normal.

    Inspect the fuel tank gas cap and filler neck. Look for plastic cracking and aged seals.

    Have a look at the Polaris Industries parts web site.

    Click the link below for more info, about lots of things Polaris

  5. #5
    MicahN's Avatar
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    The New Guy

    Hey everyone. I'm new to this forum, I finally joined after including greenhulk in my research for years. Don't know why it took this long...Anyways I'm on my second rebuild of my 94 SLT and it's nice to see others out there who are still running these. I have always had a blast on mine. One thing I've noticed on your ski is the hull material. I have always had trouble trying to get my inner hull that clean. Yours looks as if it's been painted. Can you verify this? If so does anyone know why my SLT would have been left with just the raw surface of the fiberglass?? Also after the simple green were you using a powerwasher?

    Thanks and keep up the good work!

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MicahN View Post
    Hey everyone. I'm new to this forum, I finally joined after including greenhulk in my research for years. Don't know why it took this long...

    ...94 SLT ... hull material. I have always had trouble trying to get my inner hull that clean...
    Welcome to the Hulk

    Some models are made using fiberglass, others are made using SMC (Sheet molded compound).

    SMC hulls are molded both sides (inside and outside), so the inside is smooth, often with visible ribs molded into the material.

    Fiberglass hulls are smooth on the outside, but inside you can see the roughness of the exposed glass fibers.

  7. #7
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    Thanks

    Hey thanks! That makes sense, do you know of a good cleaning agent for the inside that won't damage the fiberglass?

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