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  1. #1
    jgustman's Avatar
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    Head bolt length after head is shaved???

    Quote Originally Posted by ABBOTT
    YOU GUYS have to use the washers if the head is milled. It will leak like damn Niagra Falls.

    When you mill the head, you have to remember that the stock bolts were just long enough to be torqed to 25 FT pounds. Well if you take say 30 thousandths off the surface of the head, then your same bolts will bottom out before actually pressing the head to the jugs!!!!!!


    Anyone else want to chime in on this...I've been running 2 summers now with the head shaved and one layer of gasket and stock bolts/washer. 143psi compression at 1100ft. altitude. No problems.


  2. #2

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    I would say your lucky How much was shaved off the head?

  3. #3
    jgustman's Avatar
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    Don't know, have to go look and see if I can measure it while installed...

  4. #4
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    As a reminder:
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=8393

    Also, I use to have stainless hex bolts for the head bolts. I went back to OEM after I found my stainless hex bolts stretched after 21/22 lbs.
    Stay with OEM bolts.

  5. #5
    jgustman's Avatar
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    Approx. .080" or 2.04 mm. shaved off the head according to the quick measurement.

    Now what....remove one bolt at a time and retorque with added washer or break the seal and start over? Or just leave it the hell alone...
    Last edited by jgustman; 09-21-2006 at 08:22 PM.

  6. #6
    Never say never KirkF350's Avatar
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    Mannnn, I don't know. I had R&D mill my head on my 01 and they told me @ the time that there was no need for spacers of shorter bolts because the jugs had plenty of thread depth to absorb the difference from millling. 20 hours since rebuild, torgue still good and compression too.
    Either the guy knew his stuff, or I have been extremely lucky.

  7. #7
    jgustman's Avatar
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    I'm with you on R&D's advise and let a sleeping dog lie , runs fine, the bolts would have caused probs. by now.... I'll have to remember to check them in the future to see how close it is, but does anyone know how much extra room you need to compensate for bolt stretch?

  8. #8
    HopatcongGPR's Avatar
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    dont do them one at a time..your ruin your seal.....if it lasted this long, your fine.

    NEXT TIME, when your head is off bottom out a bolt and measure the distance from the deck to the bottom of the washer. then measure your head and add .010 for the single shim. i think you will be pleased with what you find.

    ive never had to run shims on any head bolt....after the head was milled and the cylinder was decked (just enough to true the deck).

    if it aint broke, dont fix it.

    dont listen to what everyone says....youll go nutzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

    u know better justin!!

    and..btw, im still using my factory head bolts from 2000....that head has been pulled more then i care to count.
    Last edited by HopatcongGPR; 09-21-2006 at 09:59 PM.

  9. #9
    spud's Avatar
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    Well I'm with Hop. On my 2000 Pro-Tec milled the head I used the stockbolts no washers. No problems.On the 2001 Lowell told me to check depths and use washers. I bought stainless washers assembled. No problems.

    I think the problem is unclean blind holes. I chased mine with a tap and vacuumed them. Maybe that is why I didn't have any problems.The tapped bore was plenty deep on both of my skis.

    Hope this helps or at least shines another light on this problem.

  10. #10
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    cleaned and tapped the holes. Works like a charm.

    There are different sized bolts on the 60T head versus the 66V head.

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