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  1. #1
    2000 Polaris Pro 1200 rdizz81's Avatar
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    jetpump Housing Bolt

    When i removed my Jetpump a Bolt broke off into the jetpump housing and i cant seem to get it out and i cant find anyone to work on it...

    what does it take to replace the jetpump housing on a 2000 polaris pro 1200 and is it even worth it i have owned this ski for about 3 weeks and i have already dumped more money into it than what the thing is worth...


  2. #2
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    any pics of the problem?

  3. #3
    2000 Polaris Pro 1200 rdizz81's Avatar
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    Yup gimmie one sec.
    Last edited by rdizz81; 05-18-2010 at 10:05 PM. Reason: for no good reason

  4. #4
    2000 Polaris Pro 1200 rdizz81's Avatar
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    top right is the trouble maker
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdizz81 View Post
    top right is the trouble maker
    That doesn't look too bad

    Soak it in penetrant for a good while (days if you can). A small rag stuffed around it can hold the liquid against the threads.

    I would trim away the shroud material around the exposed stub, which might allow you to get a solid grip on the remaining bolt stub. A Dremel tool with a cutting wheel should do it. Just don't cut into the bolt.

    Applying heat from a heat gun (or carefully applied torch) should expand the aluminum enough to release the grip on the both threads. Then try backing the bolt out while it is still warm.

    Another approach is to use a stud removal tool. They are designed for just this sort of problem. You still need the penetrant and possibly also the heat, but the tool makes it easier to get a grip on the stud and unscrew it.


  6. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    you're fortunate

    this one only rates about a 3 in the headache department. You need to be really carful with a torch.

    Here's how I would handle this one.

    get some PB Blaster
    mini butane torch
    some shop rags
    an electric fan
    the tools that 447 mentioned
    hammer
    flat nose punch

    you will need to cut that shorud away..wear google when using the air powered cutting wheel. be careful not to clip the bolt..careful isn't strong eough. put a notch in the bolt and you are screwed bad.

    spray the bolt down with plenty of pb blaster..after an hour get the hammer and punch and tap the bolt lightly a bunch of times ( this helps the blaster penetrate)

    repeat at least twice...be genrous with the blaster

    next day..wipe everything down really well

    turn on box fan on low, have air blowing across he pump area, the next step creates nasty fumes,,you need good ventialation. try to do this near an open garage door...this will really stink

    heat the middle of he bolt with a SMALL flame..bigger is not better here. What we are trying to do here is force the bolt to expand...the aluminum will also pick up heat and expand faster, but we want that bolt to swell so it's corrosion can be attacked byt the blaster. when it's smokin..it's good

    after it's pretty hot set the fan on high and then spray it wih some more pb blast and then try the stud remover tool on it. Careful here not to burn your place down..spraying pb blaster on something really hot makes lots of noxious smoke, but you want the bolt to cool quickly, so it gets harder.

    After the smoke clears gentle steady pressure is what is needed here..with some luck the bolt will budge..when it does..more pb blaster, heat hammer with punch..if it turns a bit and sticks stop and soak it down again.

    when you're done you'll know why I charge $60 an hour extra for boats used near salt water..and I already know that polairs pump bolts need plentyof PB.

    A squeaking bolt is crying ( gonna break gonna break gonna breaaaaaak)..even a big nasty one like in the jet pump is no match for a 3/8 ratchet and a strong hand.

    After you've gotten it out, go buy a couple of 9/16 bolts at the haardware store lock em up in your vise and watch how easy it is to twist the heads off..

    Weall hope you get at least a B+ in broken bolt extraction.

    this is good reading by the way for anybody wanting some good tips and tricks for this event:

    the "art" of extraction

    http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm

    I was fortunate to be schooled by a master in this field in 1985 and I still have my uber expensive set of snapon easy outs from back in the day.

    good luck..we're all wishing you sucess

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Excellent post

  8. #8

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    hmm is this a broken long pump bolt ? or a bolt that holds the wear-ring to the hull

    if its not the hull anchor bolt why not take it off with it and heat it up and do this surgery off the ski or buy a new one i think sombody should have one for sale

    or are the pros a different case of lemons

  9. #9
    2000 Polaris Pro 1200 rdizz81's Avatar
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    Its the real long bolt..

    But i tried to drill a hole in it already and slipped a little bit to the right.

    so the bolt head now has a slight indentation and a little ramp to the right... if that makes sense.

  10. #10
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    it's politely suggested

    that you try to follow this advice...or nobody is going to be handing you kleenex when you bugger it all up and have to:

    1-run the pump with three bolts
    2-find a new pump shoe
    2-install a new pomp shoe

    gather your tools,say a small prayer to the lord of the seas and another to the lord of things of iron and steel and prepare for battle

    broken bolt extraction is an art that must be learned, unless you are fortunate enough to be in possession of lots of money and can afford brand new iron every year..but even then get careless trying to change some spark plugs and.....

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