Thread: Skat prop removal
05-23-2010, 07:48 PM #1
Skat prop removal
I'm trying to go back to my OEM prop to see what kind of RPM's I can gain. Ran into a major snag this weekend when trying to remove the Skat prop. The nose cone has lost all it's anodized coating and appears to be corroded to the driveshaft/prop. I stipped the allen screw in 2 seconds that holds it on. Then I had to drill the set-screw all the way out...so I know thats not whats holding it on. Lastly I ground the cone kinda flat to try and twist it off with some large vise grips. No luck. Soaking it in Fluid Film now but this things being a bitch.
Any pointers would be much appreciated. Sending the whole pump to Impros would be super pricey.
Cone used to look like this:
05-23-2010, 07:58 PM #2
05-23-2010, 08:02 PM #3
solas nose cones are blue, skat's are blackish. Are you using a solas nose cone on your skat prop?
05-23-2010, 08:50 PM #4
I had difficulty getting one off and had to drill out the screw… plus it started corroded…
I then had to use a bigger drill bit at an angle to weaken the nose cone… I then levered it off with a screw driver..
When I re-fitted my skat (blackish) front nose cone I did not install the small screw…
Once a month I will get underneath and spray some wd40 or rp7 etc on it… It is held firmly with the rubber ring and has not moved.
I have heard that some people just leave them off... personally I put them on.
When using the skat impeller tool you need to make sure it is fully seated in the impeller… it goes in half way easily and then needs to be pushed in all the way to the beginning of the spanner end...
05-23-2010, 09:40 PM #5
So is this removal tool mentioned above the part that I used to tighten it down or is it something different? I have the hollowed out nut, and the part that slides over the drive shaft to hold the thing in the vise.
Man, This cone is starting to look like hamburger, it's completely cut all the way to the prop, and I have tried everything shy of a blow torch to remove it.
05-23-2010, 09:42 PM #6
When you put them on, anti-sieze is your best friend. I usually coat the front of the prop, the inside of the cone & the shaft to prevent them from getting stuck.
Unfortunately, the Skat cones aren't cheap. I was used to getting the Solas cones for my GPR props(like the one in your pic) for $12. I asked Impros to include a couple Skat cones in my order when I sent him a prop last year & the fuckers were $48/ea. I almost fell off my chair when I found out I paid $96 for 2.
05-24-2010, 12:02 AM #7
05-24-2010, 02:21 AM #8
I had a total bitch of a time getting my Skat nose cone. I ended up greasing the shaft in the direction that the code has to slide off, then used a pair of vise grips and twisted the damn thing back and forth while hitting the vise grips with a hammer forcing the cone off.
I thought I had to have been doing something wrong because it could be this hard, but I talked to a few buddies who also had issues. If I hadn't got it off the way I did I was going to cut the SOB off. The whole ordeal was extremely frustrating.
05-24-2010, 02:49 AM #9
LOL It's still on there.
I'm just worried that if it tears and part of the cone is still in there how the hell will I ever get the prop off? There will be no way to slide the hollow nut thing down the drive shaft to turn the prop. Which means I would have to grab it by the blades and somehow turn it. Seems like a really good way to dick it up.
05-24-2010, 01:32 PM #10
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Pensacola Fl
I soaked my stock impeller in a good spray lube for several days before I was able to break the darn thing free. I stood the driveshaft up so that the lube would penetrate better. AfterIm done washing it now, I use an air compressor attachment to really dry out the pump and then I spary lube the impeller through the grate. Definitely dont want to go through that again.
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