Thread: Engine Removal Question 1998 GTS
05-30-2010, 06:27 PM #1
- Join Date
- May 2010
Engine Removal Question 1998 GTS
I"m pulling the motor from my ski and had a couple of questions. 1. What needs to be disconnected from the PTO if anything once I begin to pull the pump housing. 2. how do I inspect the crankshaft for damage or to tell if it needs to be rebuilt.
05-30-2010, 08:18 PM #2
05-30-2010, 10:27 PM #3
- Join Date
- May 2010
I was told when I bought the ski that the engine overheated and siezed. When I got the ski the jugs were removed but the pistons were still attached to the crank. I found several little pins ... looks like it came from the wrist pin bearings. I used a magnet and searched in the crank case and pulled out some more, so I'm concerned if the crank got damaged. I tried to turn the motor by hand but can only get about a 1/4 turn and it seems to bind. I found alot of sand around the pump housing so I'm now wondering if it is the impeller that is siezed and nothing was wrong with the engine. It could have been they were trying to remove the pistons from the crank because the pins were neatly sitting on top of the crank case and I think when I trailered it home they could have dropped into the crank case. The pistons show signs of use but no abuse or damage. some pitting on top of the piston but could be normal. Will the pump slide of the shaft or when I pull the pump does the shaft come with it. The reason I'm asking is because I need to know what needs to be removed from the interior hull to remove the shaft so I can pull the bottom end of the motor. I don't want to split the case if there is a way to check the crank for damage. There is no hour meter on the ski so I'm not sure of the hours of use but from the looks of things maintence was never performed. I also thought by removing the motor if would give my better access to replace the gray fuel lines and the reverse cable (broken) The steering seems very tight. possibly needs some lubricant. I think the person I bought it from was going to take on doing the top end of the motor but lost interest or didn't have the funds to continue. I think I got a great deal. I paid $250.00 with the trailer. the ski is a 1998 Seadoo GTS and the trailer is a 2001 FE galvanized with a storage box. Your assistance would be greatly appreciated. I di purchase a shop manual but a little difficult to follow on some items.
05-31-2010, 06:18 AM #4
since you have ample room to move that little 720(correct?) around you can almost unblot the thing and slide it forward and remove the engine. Id still take the pump apart and im betting that the pump bearings are seized.
to check the crank and get all the wrist pin bearings out you will have to split the cases. its not that bad you can open it up and inspect it. then just re seal and your good to go. if you try to fire it with a wrsit pin bearing needle in the bottom you can cause damage upon first fire.
what do the cylinder walls look like are they scratched?
yes once you unbolt the pump (4 bolts) pull like hell and it will come off. the driveshaft is not connected to the pump. it has splines on both ends. do you have a carrier bearing seal on the inside of the hull or a carbon ring?
to check hours you can take it to the dealership and they can hook the BUDS system up to it and check the MPEM to read the hours.
your right you got a good deal on this. some LTC and taking you time will go a long way.
05-31-2010, 09:31 AM #5
The '98 should have the carbon seal.
There is a circlip on the drive shaft that you will need to remove in order to pull the shaft out of the PTO prior to removing the engine (the best way to do it, IMO).
The clip is number 2 in the diagram, for reference:
BEFORE removing the pump, pull that SS collar back against the carbon seal/boot assembly. This will expose the circlip. Pop it off and the let the collar go. Now, when you pull the pump the drive shaft will come off easily.
On that boat there is no pump shoe to the pump is glued right to the transome and the hose nipples for the bailers and cooling water intake go right through there as well. It does make it a PITA to pull the pump and you have to be carefull NOT to break those nipples off (though if you do, they can be replaced). It will then have to cleaned up and re-sealed when the pump is installed (use "The Right Stuff" to seal it, plain black slicone is not really up to the task, IMO).
On the crank you will want to look for any discoloration or deflection of the rods and any sign of rust on the bearings. Also check the Rotary Valve gear and its mate, the gear on the crank, for wear (worn away teeth, ect). If there is any doubt at all on the crank replace it.
It is a good idea to split the cases on that engine anyway as it is common for 717s to start leaking at through the cases and allowing the RV oil cavity lube to seep into the crank cavity. By doing this now you would avoid a possible issue down the road.
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
By rx4pain in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 5Last Post: 04-07-2008, 06:27 PM
By dentonf250 in forum 2-Stroke PerformanceReplies: 4Last Post: 03-30-2008, 10:33 PM
By klutch_nut in forum Polaris Open DiscussionReplies: 22Last Post: 03-27-2008, 11:17 AM
By zrtman in forum 2-Stroke PerformanceReplies: 5Last Post: 02-27-2008, 02:59 PM