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  1. #1

    2000 slx 1200 Electrical Troubles

    The part that provides the power to the solenoid was only clicking and not letting the solenoid get power. There was an extra spade open on that part and it tested 12.7 volts when I pushed the start button, so I switched connections. Now it starts right up but I'll need to replace the part. What is it?

    Now that it starts it won't crack open and my LCD screen is out. Is there a fuse for it? What's going on?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    Exactly what wire did you move, from where to where?

  3. #3
    yellow/red wire moved from the center spade to the top center

  4. #4
    Canadian Beaver Inspector jkindt's Avatar
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    Can you post a pic?

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    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkindt View Post
    Can you post a pic?

  6. #6
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    are u inside the electrical box like this? I'm pointing to a wire in the e-box. its probably not the one your talking about. just wondering if your in the box or not.

    Post a picture of it, if you dont know how to post pics, let us know we'll show ya how. borrow a camera if necessary.
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  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Weazer View Post
    yellow/red wire moved from the center spade to the top center
    The Yellow/Red wire connects the solenoid to the lanyard Start button on the handlebar

    Put that Yellow/Red wire back where it came from.

    The solenoid is the relay with the two large red wires connected, and a small Black wire and Yellow/Red wire.

    When you press the start button, the solenoid is supposed to click closed, and thereby connect the two heavy red terminals together. This supplies power to the starter motor through the heavy red cables, and the engine then cranks.

    Sometimes the solenoid fails, and does not do its job, even though it still makes the clicking noise.

    To diagnose electrical faults, it is important to follow an organized diagnostic. The electrical box is wired in a very specific manner, and every wire must be properly connected.

    Do not move wires around without knowing what they really do, and what effects your change may have.

  8. #8
    I do think that the clicking was coming from the piece I'm pointing to in the picture because I took the solenoid out and the clicking was still there.

    This originally started when I thought the solenoid was bad and went to replace it only to find it doing the same thing. The wire that I switched is the one I'm pointing to in the picture. I'll switch it back but then it won't engage the solenoid.

    Why won't it hook up over a few k rpm's?
    MFD is out. I just bridged the fuse and it worked. Any suggestions for pulling the fuse? It looks tight.

    By the way. This is a great site and you people are very good. I've been searching for a site like this for a long time. Thank you.
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  9. #9
    Update

    After reading another post, I pulled the brown wire (I believe this is the heat sensor). The machine took right off. Obviously, I am happy about this but what do I need to do to fix it?

    Also, I have to replace the part that I'm pointing to in the picture above, but I don't know what it is.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Weazer View Post
    ...Also, I have to replace the part that I'm pointing to in the picture above, but I don't know what it is.
    Does that part have numbers beside each of the pins?

    Such as 85, 86, 87, 30 ?

    If it does, that is a relay that has been added on by someone. It would not be a factory part.

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