05-30-2010, 10:12 PM #1
95 WaverRaider 700 Factory Carb Settings?
I'm helping a kid from my church get a 95 WaverRaider 700 up and running. I don't have a manual, but I've been inside and out of the Mikuni SBN 38's plenty of times. The problem is I don't have any references for the factory carb settings: HS and LS needles, pop off pressure, and idle speed.
The Mikuni rebuild kit came with 2 sets of springs. One was the same length as the OEM and the other was shorter, so I just made a guess that it was the right one. I found the chart that lists pop off pressures for various needle/seat combos, but I don't know the OEM size needle in this ski.
We ran the ski today and it seemed okay, but idle was a bit high around 1750RPM in the water and about 2500 on the trailer. It also seemed to be a bit rough at idle, but would jump up to over 6500RPM on the stock tach. Someetimes it would blubber off idle then clear out, so I'm it seems I'm rich on the idle circuit. Piston wash looks good, but after idling back to the dock the plugs are pretty wet. I tried to match OEM HS and LS settings that were present, but this ski was not running when he got it so we don't know if these were correct. Currently I have the HS needles at 5/8 turns out and the LS needs at 1 turn out.
Spark is great, compression is 145PSI on each hole, and the ski starts instantly at the push of the button. Overall I think we're pretty close, we just need to find the stock settings and put the carbs there for more testing.
05-31-2010, 11:42 AM #2
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
06-02-2010, 09:29 PM #3
ZMANN is AWESOME!!
The info he shot me was exactly what I needed.
I'm a little stumped yet. The fuel return fitting on the front carb is totally plugged. I cannot get any air to move through this nipple at all. I have the inlet cleared out and it is in good shape. But this return line just won't free up. Below are pictures of the fuel body plate. Can anyone tell me what I should be looking for? Surely there must be a 1mm or smaller orifice for the fuel return, right?
I have a buddy that has a carburetor solvent bath and I'm think of taking it to him for a soak to see if we can get the return orifice cleared. Does this sound alright?
To get the kid running for the weekend I used a fuel body plate off of one my (egads) Polaris 750's. The 750's also use Mikuni SBN 38's, so I figured it couldn't be too far off. The ski didn't run the greatest, but we check the plugs and piston wash and I made sure it was at least running rich. I figured with too much fuel the worst that can happen over the weekend is it would smoke a lot.
06-03-2010, 02:06 PM #4
Hopefully tonight the kid can bring the ski back over and we can get everything back in place and adjusted.
06-05-2010, 05:09 PM #5
plate's on and the ski runs like a champ!
06-07-2010, 10:19 AM #6
Same model ski and similar problem. My ski is surging at 3/4 to wot, the mikuni book says to open up the HS jet, I have backed it out to 3 full turns from closed and moved it in all the way to 1 full turn from closed. No change in performance, in fact I am starting to wonder if the HS is working at all.
What are the factory HS/LS settings?
I am going to pick up a couple carb rebuild kits later this week, but I appreciate any insight into what to check. Supposedly both carbs were just rebuilt right before I bought the ski, I removed the diaphram plate yesterday and both of them did look realtivly new.
Any other suggestions what to check before I buy kits?
06-07-2010, 06:05 PM #7
Factory settings are as follows:
Main Jet #120 (Front) #130 (Rear)
Pilot Jet #67.5
Low Speed Screw 5/8 turns out +/- 1/4
High Speed Screw 5/8 turns out +/- 1/4 (Front)
1 1/8 turns out +/- 1/4 (Rear)
Idle RPM in water = 1250
Your problem might not be the jets or HS screws at all. It's possible you have a fuel restriction due to a plugged fuel filter or maybe your fuel lines have gone soft and are collapsing under high suction. Another possibility could be that your fuel pump innards in the rear carb are weak and cannot supply sufficient fuel under high load.
06-08-2010, 08:03 AM #8
Great points thank you.
I have replaced the fuel filter, but I used an automotive see thru with replaceable filter. I wouldn't think it is too restrictive as I used the same filter on a 95 wave venture and it is flowing well.
The fuel pump is what I was wondering about as well, the reason being is the fuel filter doesn't fill up with fuel like my wave venture does. So here is a stupid question, does a rebuild kit address the fuel pump and is there a simple way to test the fuel pump?
I didn't consider the fuel lines, they are all original so I will replace those.
Thanks again, sorry I don't really know much about carburetors so I greatly appreciate the assistance....
06-08-2010, 09:02 AM #9
Mikuni SBN manual to bring yourself up to speed on how they work.
08-11-2012, 08:42 PM #10
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
Well, there hasn't been a comment on this post for a while, hopefully it will be reviseted.
@johnsonmtz since you seem to know a lot abot the Mikuni carbs, maybe you can help me.
I got the kit for the mikuni 38, I think they are 38 the carbs in the 96 yamaha venture 700.
Whoever had the ski before messed up the carb internals because they did not match the mikuni documentation.
Anyway, since in the mikuni docs has a couple of notes for the different size style and year carbs, I got a little confused, especially because there are so many extra parts in the rebuild kit.
I am attaching pictures to describe what I am referring to.
First of all my sky has two carbs, and only one has the fuel pump..
First question is about the one without the pump. I am not sure if I am supposed to add the gasket that I am holding. It was not present when I took it apart, but the documentation seems to call for it. But I am unsure because of the cavity area behind it.
Second question is about the rear carb with the pump.
Should I have gaskets on both sides of the transparent diaphram, or is that for a different style carb?
Also does it look right that on the other side I have the fully closed gasket, or should I have the gasket with the two semi circles that would cover the rubber gasket below?
Do my questions make sense?
Basically the pictures I have attached is how I intend to put them back together (I know I am missing a check valve, not done yet, I broke the rubber grummet and it's on order) Do they look correct?
Another less important question is about the washers. Should I have a flat washer + lock washer on both sides? The document calls for one washer on one side and two on the other side, so I wanted to make sure.
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