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  1. #1

    2007 Speedster lost 500 rpm ?!

    2007 Seadoo Speedster SCIC. Bought new. Mods include 4 " intake, external intercooler with strainer, SS wear ring, solas 19, Riva gen II impeller. Supercharger rebuilt twice by Jerry. 2nd time, last Aug. upgraded to above wheel. Big improvement. Boat ran 8,000 + rpm consistantly remainder of 2009.

    This year boat is struggling to get to 7,500 rpm.

    Impeller and pump assy all disassembled & re installed. Everything OK there.

    No error messages.

    I did have + 1/2 quart too much oil after change this winter. Drained out after 1 tank of gas ran through, and no change.

    Changed plugs. They look excellent after 3 tanks of gas.

    Yesterday, after boat had not been used for several hours, it picked up a major miss. After about 2 minutes, it cleared out. Has never done prior or since. ?!

    Planning to check compression this week. Anyone know target?

    Boat shows 96 hours, but I think actual is closer to 300 hours.

    Anyone have any ideas? All thoughts are appreciated.


  2. #2
    ...Lighting The Water On Fire Since '04 duramaxxed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    The Hamptons, Long Island, New York
    With the External IC, plus the Upgraded Wheel, I don't See Injectors or RRFPR on your Mod List, so you are Running way Lean.

  3. #3

    Dirty Fuel Filter

    Replaced and boat now runs perfect.

  4. #4
    another thing you can do is 2 more hole just beside the original air vent whit just a foot of hose, on mine it help alot to keep the under hood whit fresh air.

  5. #5
    TheElite0ne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Tampa, FL
    Quote Originally Posted by Russ Brown View Post
    Replaced and boat now runs perfect.
    Good idea to change the fuel filter.

    How difficult was it to change fuel filters? I read there are two... did you replace both or just one? Any tips on the best way to replace them?

  6. #6
    TheElite0ne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Tampa, FL
    Thanks for posting this. I don't know if I would of thought to replace my fuel filters.

    For those of you with alot of hours on your boats this would be a good maintenance item to do. After reading this post I decided to swap out my fuel filters and I'm glad I did. Here's what my fuel filters look after 102hrs. The difference compared to the brand new fuel filters is incredible.

    The old ones were completely clogged with what looked like green slime. I'm surprised any fuel was able to get thru. I’m sure the boat was being choked from lack of fuel. The two fuel filters are just generic filters and can be sourced at any auto parts store. I got mine at Advanced Auto for $14.99 & $9.99 and they are an exact replacement. Here's a quote of the part #'s

    Quote Originally Posted by BoostedH23a1 View Post
    2004 RXP

    Hey guys,
    I was inside the fuel tank today, replaced the filters and here are the part numbers from Airtex (advanced auto parts, auto zone carquest, etc)
    Airtex Part numbers for the filters
    Outer Fuel Filter:FS242
    Inner: FS220
    if they want a application use a 97-02 Saturn SL with a 1.9L
    exactly the same filter.

    It may be boxed as Masters, but its the same one.
    Hope it helps someone else
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  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Kalispell, Montana
    So how easy was it and where are the two located?

    Thanks Ned

  8. #8
    Great info! I will order some filters up to have on hand. Also curious to know where these are... tips/hints appreciated!

  9. #9
    where is he "inner " filter, inside the fuel pump housing I assume?

  10. #10
    TheElite0ne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Tampa, FL

    How to replace fuel pump/filters

    I found this document. Instructions are for a ski but once you get the fuel pump out its all the same. Both fuel filters are on the fuel pump which is inside the fuel tank.

    On a Speedster 150 remove the center seat bottom cushion to expose an access hatch to the fuel tank. Open the hatch by unscrewing it... may also need a flat head screw driver to pry it open. You'll now have access to the fuel pump. Have a couple rags and a little bucket on hand because you will spill a little fuel when disconnecting everything.

    There are 10 nuts & washers you have to unscrew. I believe i used a 5/16th socket to get them out and use a screw driver to pry the fuel pump loose. Stud bolts, will remain in the fuel tank. Use caution to not drop the nuts or washers.

    Gas level sender arm is attached to the fuel pump. Tight fit, but will exit all in one piece. Make sure this arm doesn't get bent.

    When lifting the fuel pump out of the tank take note of the orientation of the rubber gasket that seals the pump to the tank. There is a little indicator notch. Make sure you replace the gasket the exact way it was when you removed it.
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