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  1. #1
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Messed up the Pro this weekend...

    Long story short, a bunch of water got in the engine bay while I was out riding. I was a ways away from home so I had to sit there and hold down the bilge pump button to clear out the water. When I thought it was all good, I hit the start button and it didn't sound too good...kind of a bang.

    I was able to get it started and get back to the house. The next day, I did the 'redneck' index check by bringing one of the pistons to TDC and making sure the other two were at the same height...and they were. Checked the compression and the PTO was down just a bit....115 PSI while the others were 120 and 125 PSI.

    The ski runs but it sort of hesitates on the low end and is also down about 1,000 RPM. I'm wondering if the woodruff key is sheared or maybe the flywheel got torqued just a bit? Would reeds cause problems like that?

    I'm so bummed!!!!


  2. #2
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Did water get high enough to enter the electrical box?

  3. #3
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    It did...I do need to crack that open and check things out.

  4. #4
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    I'd start there as you don't want the water doing "it's thing". If it entered the carbs I'd pull them down as well, the water will get into the pump diaghram area and do strange things. Remember to verify there is no water in the fuel tank as well. Ohhh, while you have the carbs off for cleaning check the reeds as you stated, you may have chipped one.
    The good news is you seemed to run it long enough to clear the water from engine internals.

  5. #5
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Another thing I can think of is water in the stator cover but if you ran it for while and it got warm enough the heat generated under that front cover will usually dry things out pretty well.

    Good Luck!!

  6. #6
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Thanks a bunch! I will open the electrical box and see what is going on in there.

    Does the timing seem to be okay?

  7. #7
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    You need to verify crank index is indeed good but if you do these other things and it runs good, no hesitation and you get your RPM's back I wouldn't be in a hurry to index the crank.
    Or of course you can index the crank and get it out of your way so you don't have to wonder.

  8. #8
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ph2ocraft View Post
    You need to verify crank index is indeed good but if you do these other things and it runs good, no hesitation and you get your RPM's back I wouldn't be in a hurry to index the crank.
    Or of course you can index the crank and get it out of your way so you don't have to wonder.
    I was more or less refering to the actual timing...like if the woodruff key sheared and either advanced or retarded the timing. I'm under the impression that it would be backfiring or not even getting up on a plane if the timing was off?? It was running pretty good...I ran it a bit and the hesitation started to go away and it pulled pretty hard, just wasn't pulling the tach.

  9. #9

    2000 slh polaris mfd

    my mfd died can any one shed light on how to fix or find replacement, don't like the hole in steering column Heather

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hmallanda View Post
    my mfd died can any one shed light on how to fix or find replacement, don't like the hole in steering column Heather
    Heather, welcome to the Hulk

    There is a 1/4 Amp fuse inside the electrical box. Replace it with another 1/4 Amp fuse, not a larger rated fuse.

    Multi-Function Display (MFD)

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