06-02-2010, 12:54 AM #1
Two 1994 Seadoo GTX's Please Help
i have 2 seadoos with problems...
1. This seadoo while I was riding started running real rough and wouldnt rev out I limped it home noticed it was out of gas filled it and never got it to start again... I have so had a mechanic buddy rebuild carbs and replace tempo fuel lines. I payed he said it ran so I started it in the shop it ran just fine only for like 5 sec cause of no water... went to lake test and it wont start so I pull out over to the side and start looking around and I removed the air cleaner the PTO carb you can see visible small droplets of gas fly out the top and when you stop cranking the mag carb just has a blue puff come out of it. Any ideas of what to do? I asked and he wont look at him I should have just fixed it myself. I can get it to start if I tunt the fuel selector valve off and crank it it will slowly pick up rpm fire on one cylinder then run for a few seconds real strong then I can turn the gas on it boggs a little but clears out but then it runs fine at low RPM then you shoot it to it and it almost planes but bogs and dies you can get it to start by repeating those steps and after it reved and bogged a few times i got torward shore and slowly the motor lost RPM died and wouldnt start again...
2. I was out riding my seadoo and i did a 180 and the nose dove under the water not high enough to enter the engine compartment just enought to flow into the foot wells and then it kinda just bogged down ran at a low RPM all the way home and changed the gas replaced fuel lines everything still wouldnt rev out had my mechanic look at it he rebuilt it at the same time as the other seadoo got it back and i didnt start this one cause i started the other and it ran good supposidly so I though well the other one should run good to then (STUPID THOUGHT)... got it home put a battery in started AND SMOKE POURED out the back thick blue oil smoke i took the cover off to see if the carbs spit fuel i dont remember but i did notice the cable that goes to the oil pump theres a 45-60* angle Black piece is missing and the cable is just through the metal in the carb mount i probably need that piece for the oil pump to function properly dont I?
Moral of this problem... FIX IT YOURSELF DONT TRUST ANYONE WITH YOUR TOYS!!!
anyone got any ideas to fix these im selling them in less than a month cause im moving away from the lake Thanks all who respond
They have the 38MM mikuni's on them.
06-02-2010, 04:44 PM #2
06-06-2010, 04:25 PM #3
06-06-2010, 06:28 PM #4
I guess I am not sure what you are trying to ask here. If you read your own post i think it is obvious what needs to be done.
1.) Either take the ski back to the mechanic and ask him to look it over again, or rebuild the carbs yourself, because obviously they are not supposed to spit gas out. Also your description sounds like the carbs are flooding out the engine. So the needle is probably not set right or pop off is wrong. (or 100 other things within the carbs) What do the spark plugs look like, wet?
2.) Yeah i would try to put all the pieces on the carbs that are supposed to be there, that would be a start.
It is hard for anyone here to tell you what to do when you tell us that you know the carbs on both skis are put together wrong...
Give us something to work with besides i know my carbs are wrong what should i do? Once you get to that point and they still aren't running right or if you need help putting them together come back and ask a question.
06-06-2010, 06:43 PM #5
06-06-2010, 06:57 PM #6
Last edited by David_HX_RXP; 06-07-2010 at 04:16 AM. Reason: -
06-06-2010, 08:14 PM #7ok well apparently when my mechanic replaced the fuel lines he didnt clean the selector switches would that cause an issue and i checked the fuel lines there all correct and ill look at the needle and seats and see if there firmly seated
My mechanic moved and will not accept responsibility for the skies but he did give me my $ back
06-06-2010, 08:19 PM #8
The Needle and Seat "Pop-Off" Pressure is critical that is it is correct.
I would check that too with the proper gauge and know-how to use it.
06-06-2010, 08:50 PM #9
I think i still have my old one from when i checked it on my polaris 650
06-07-2010, 04:15 AM #10
It's the N/S Spring which gets fatigued--not the N/S itself (usually) The rebuild kits come with new Springs but I have seen many (many) Springs which created far different Pop-Off pressures even thought the Spring itself was *supposed* to be the same calibrated / colored Spring.
I buy several separately and usually go through at least two (or more) before I get the pop-off dead-on. Stretching Springs or cutting Coils off a Spring to 'field calibrate' them will only create problems in the long term--dont do it....
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