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  1. #1

    Raider 1100 Rear Crank Seal Replacement - Help, Please

    So, I've got the engine out of my ski so that I can change the rear crank case oil seal, and I have a question. Is it possible to change this seal without taking the pistons out, or am I going to have to pull all three pistons and completely split the crank case apart to change this seal?

    Also, when putting the new seal in, I have read that it is recommended to actually epoxy the seal in place to help prevent it from blowing out again. What it is the best way/best (strongest) epoxy to use to accomplish this?

    Many Thanks guys!!


  2. #2
    Flying Scotsman's Avatar
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    Use 1211 on the c,case sealing surfaces and run a bead in the grooves the seals fit in.
    Easiest to do with the pistons removed but can be done with the top end intact.
    To much 1211 is going to get some in the motor so dont use a lot.
    Remember that the front seal and the rear most seal have tabs on them that face out I have been told if you put the rear one in wrong/backwards it will blow out easy.

  3. #3
    Thanks for the reply. I assume this is the "1211" you are talking about?

    'Three Bond 1211 Liquid Gasket Sealant'

    http://www.pwcengine.com/products/Th...t-Sealant.html

    Gonna try to get this done without pulling the pistons if at all possible. REALLY don't want to have to put those all back together as well...

  4. #4
    Flying Scotsman's Avatar
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    Yes.

  5. #5
    I also meant to ask if it would be a good idea to install new piston rings while I have everything apart? Engine has about 200-225 hours on it - Compression has been pretty good on all cylinders - 114, 120, 120 psi.

    Thanks!

  6. #6
    Flying Scotsman's Avatar
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    It would give you even compresion so why not it would be relatively inexpensive(hone them too).
    Take a look inside your carbs as well,carbs are key in a good running long lasting motor.If in doubt rebuild them its $50 or so x 3 but you cant skip it if its needed.

  7. #7
    Yeah, carbs & fuel pump were just rebuilt this winter, so they should be good to go.

    What about epoxying the new oil seals in place? I read something before about using Yama bond or something to help keep the oil seals in place?

  8. #8
    Flying Scotsman's Avatar
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    C,case sealer,threebond 1211 on the cases and in the grooves for the seals.

  9. #9
    OK, so I now have a new gasket kit, a Clymer's manual, and I finally found some Threebond 1211! The engine is out of the ski with the top end removed. I open the Clymer's manual to get to work, only to find out that I don't have a Yamaha flywheel holder [part no. yw-41528] to get the rear coupling/flywheel off!!

    I call the local shop to find out that these damn things are over $60!!!! I REALLY don't want to be buying a tool that I will (hopefully) only be using once (OK, twice) for $60.

    So, my question is, is there any other options that I have to get this thing apart without spending $60 on a piece of metal with some teeth on it??

    Would there happen to be anyone on the board who has one that would be willing to 'rent' theirs out for a few days? (I would be willing to work something out through paypal if necessary.)

    Thanks again for any and ALL help!!

  10. #10
    Flying Scotsman's Avatar
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    Bought mine cheap at the auto part store.I use a plug inside the flywheel to drive off of.
    Opps wrong end of the crank,
    I use an old pair of jeans,i fold them a few times on the leg seam so its just thick enough to go inside the exhaust port then I use a chain wrench carefully on the coupler.

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