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  1. #1
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Cracked Pump Tunnel

    A while back, I noticed a small pinhole leak springing out of the pump housing while riding. I went on and ground back the white coating and found this crack. How in the hell am I going to repair this? If I look inside the pump tunnel from outside, I don't see any crack so it looks like the top layer is cracked only. I do notice a small pinhole that looks like has formed on the epoxy I used to hold the through hull fitting.

    Can I just use a fiberglass repair kit and put some down on the inside and re-epoxy the fitting from the outside?
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  2. #2
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    2 part epoxy and fiberglass mat should do the trick. Do not use polyester resin. I think your hull is SMC, and only epoxy resin works with that.

    KJ

  3. #3
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    The Pro 785 came with a fiberglass hull. I'm wondering if I should use a Dremel to cut away the crack and go back with some glass cloth and resin. I hope that would hold.


    Just get a kit like this....

    http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/st..._SearchResults

  4. #4
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    If it's fiberglass then I think you can have a good repair,I would grind it inside down back till your past the crack.you my have a seperation between the layers (a edge crack). You want the repair to be ground to a V. First wet the ground area good,then use mat that is cut real fine,almost a powder, then start using slightly bigger pieces to fill the V. I would use the stiff mat,the shredded type,not the weave. Work it consistly till all done.you don't want it to be set up between layers.Keep the glass very wet. I use a cheap bristle paint brush with the fibres cut short,so you can dab it very good,wetting the mat throughly.

    I have done fiberglass hull repairs before on boats as large as 24', and also Vette panel replacements.Also worked at a shop and helped build 2 Indy car bodys for Gorden Johncock of kavalar and carbon fiber. I'm sure Bowsniper can add to this,he has done alot of glass work on the Prowlers.
    PS. Did you see my post of a pro in OK for $400.00?

  5. #5
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Man that sucks. If I was you, if you have the money too, Get a sheet of carbon fiber, grind the entire area and beyond,, hate to say it, even take the pump and coupler, driveshaft out.

    then grind that whole area, v-cut the bad spot and wherever its going too untill it stops. then use chopped carbon or glass, fill it, let it cure a little, then us progressively bigger sheets to cover the entire area, trim off excess to make it look good again.
    lay up like 3 sheets of it. smooth it all out, no bubbles. your done.

    use epoxy. lay up the fiber cloth with as little as epoxy as possible.. the strength of the repair will be stronger the less epoxy you use..

    for example

    4 ozs carbon fiber, 2 oz epoxy in stead of 4 ozs carbon fiber, 4 ozs epoxy. the reason?

    first one-you'll be at 6 ozs total.. 66%carbon,33% epoxy. the other is 50%/50%. 8 ozs. the second is weaker than the first by having less carbon per ounce.

    the first is stronger.. understand?

    you can apply this principle with glass too. just use epoxy.

    I was thinking of doing the same thing on my Pro.. but havent seen any pinholes or cracks yet..

    not all Pros are made of fiberglass! SOME ARE SMC. some protoype hulls are carbon, others are glass. sometimes both deck and hull are different materials.

    the reason you dont want to use fiberglass resin is the fact that when they made these hulls, they mixed in the mold release into the mat itself in production and its mixed in. you cant get rid of it. resin wont hold on to the smc. Thats the big deal about it.

    I have glass if you need some. the strong stuff! cross mesh tight pattern type. good shit.lol

    Now stop breaking stuff! lol

  6. #6
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    then grind that whole area, v-cut the bad spot and wherever its going too untill it stops. then use chopped carbon or glass, fill it, let it cure a little, then us progressively bigger sheets to cover the entire area, trim off excess to make it look good again.
    lay up like 3 sheets of it. smooth it all out, no bubbles. your done.

    use epoxy. lay up the fiber cloth with as little as epoxy as possible.. the strength of the repair will be stronger the less epoxy you use..

    for example

    4 ozs carbon fiber, 2 oz epoxy in stead of 4 ozs carbon fiber, 4 ozs epoxy. the reason?

    first one-you'll be at 6 ozs total.. 66%carbon,33% epoxy. the other is 50%/50%. 8 ozs. the second is weaker than the first by having less carbon per ounce.

    the first is stronger.. understand?

    you can apply this principle with glass too. just use epoxy.

    I was thinking of doing the same thing on my Pro.. but havent seen any pinholes or cracks yet..

    not all Pros are made of fiberglass! SOME ARE SMC. some protoype hulls are carbon, others are glass. sometimes both deck and hull are different materials.

    the reason you dont want to use fiberglass resin is the fact that when they made these hulls, they mixed in the mold release into the mat itself in production and its mixed in. you cant get rid of it. resin wont hold on to the smc. Thats the big deal about it.

    I have glass if you need some. the strong stuff! cross mesh tight pattern type. good shit.lol

    Now stop breaking stuff! lol
    Okay, so first of all, I need to cut the V in the crack. I'm assuming since the crack is on the top layer (or so it seems), I need to just take a Dremel and barely cut that crack? Maybe take it 1/8" on each side?? How sharp of a V should it be?

    Once I do that, I then make sure the rest of the area is cleaned off...say within 2-3" on each side? Then take some glass cloth (not glass mat??), chop it up using scissors, fill the crack up to the top of the V, and wet it with the epoxy, and let it cure a little bit?

    Then take progressively larger sheets and cover up the crack...do I be sure to kind of saturate the sheets (being sure to get rid of any excess) before laying them down?

    So the epoxy will bond to either fiberglass or SMC?

  7. #7
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    I would also remove the pump, stator, driveline etc for a better view and larger repair area. Maybe while there, just reenforce the entire tunnel area??

  8. #8
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    I'm definitely going to enforce a large area of it....and if this repair doesn't work, I'll just have to get a new hull

  9. #9
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    I'm not going to say we broke a lot of them during the racing season BUT when we did, if there was another break/crack it wasn't at the repair.

  10. #10
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Meaning you broke it somewhere else on the hull? Or am I missing your humor? LOL

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