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  1. #1

    96 SLT700 ~ No spark

    Hello everyone, new to the site here. I just got my first ski(s) yesterday. My father in law gave me a '95 Yamaha Waveraider 700, and a '96 SLT 700 with a dual ski trailer. The Waveraider runs great and everything works, but the SLT700 turns over but wont start. The SLT700 has the domestic red two cylinder engine. I pulled a sparkplug and grounded the side of it to a headbolt with the plug wire on, and no spark from either plug or wire. I also disconnected the gray wire from the CDI box, and the black/yellow wires from the board in the electronics box and still no spark. It has the black CDI unit, not sure if this matters at all? Next I tested the brown wire going to the stator, and it had 5.5v while cranking and would jump to 8v for a second after releasing the starter button before falling to 0v. After this I charged the battery just to make sure. I have done alot of searching on the forum here and did an ohm test on the CDI box, my results are:

    BLK to GRND = 0.00
    BLK to PRPL = Open
    BLK to GRY = 88.00
    YLW to RD/PRPL = .9
    RD to GRND = Open
    GRN to GRND = Open
    BLK COIL to BLK/WHT COIL = Open
    PLUG BOOTS to GRND = Open

    I stopped there because I already seem to have more than one problem, if my research is correct, then I already have a stator problem and coil problems? I was hoping that someone here with experience on one of these could provide some insight on where to troubleshoot from here?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Let's go back to the battery.

    Put the electrical box back together.

    Connect your multi-meter to the battery, and monitor the voltage. Then start cranking the engine. The battery voltage must stay above 10.6 volts while the engine is cranking, or you will not have spark.

  3. #3
    Charged the battery, voltage remains above 11v while cranking but still no spark. I also unplugged the gray wire and black/yellow wires from the CDI and board, still no spark.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Well, you may need to install the ignition update kit if yours has gone bad.

    First verify that the actual CDI module is getting full voltage while cranking. CDI Red/Purple must also be over 10.6 volts while cranking.

    Polaris Domestic (red) engine


    Polaris domestic engine Ignition System Update Kits


    All 1996-1999 two and three cylinder carburetor engines [excludes all 1999 1200(1165cc) engines]
    Kit part numbers 2873091, 2873022, 2873355, 2873356
    2873022 1996-1997 Hurricane and twin carburetor 1998-1999
    2873355 1996-1997 twin carburetor except Hurricane
    2873091 1996-1998 three cylinder 900cc and 1050cc engines
    2873356 1999 1050cc three cylinder engines only
    The original factory ignition in these 1996-1999 engines was not reliable over time, so Polaris issued ignition update kits.
    '...It WILL fail eventually...'
    Each kit includes an updated CDI module, magneto stator, and for the two cylinder engines a new Ignition Coil.

    You can check whether you already have the update by checking your CDI part number.

  5. #5
    casey67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TurboLs1 View Post
    BLK to PRPL = Open

    BLK COIL to BLK/WHT COIL = Open
    PLUG BOOTS to GRND = Open
    Welcome to Green Hulk.
    Great to see you did some reading, really great to see you did some testing.

    I agree, it's unusual to see 2 parts fail at the same time.
    Do you have an auto ranging meter ? If not, are you on the right scale? 2K for some tests.

    You mentioned the wrong colors for the coil tests.
    Primary= blk/w to blk/grn for # 2
    blk/w to y/brn for cyl #1..... both 0.35 ohms
    Secondary= plug wire to blk wire = 1240 ohms

  6. #6
    No, its not an autoranging meter, but i did switch from 200 to 2k to make sure the reading was the same and it was. I was a little unsure what colors people were referring to when mentioning the "Primary and Secondary", so I will have to conduct that test again. I will post again tomorrow once I shoot those wires and also check the CDI red/prpl wire while cranking. Thanks for the leads guys.

  7. #7
    casey67's Avatar
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    If you are on the right scale, than the red to purple open reading is the killer.
    Your other readings point towards it being the " old style ignition" , double check the CDI # for giggles. But I agree with K, you'll need an update kit. It will include a new coil.

  8. #8
    Ran a few tests tonight.

    RED/PRPL CDI wire is 10.5v while cranking. The battery has 12.4v even after all the cranking so I know its charged.

    Primary BLK/WHT to BLK/GRN = 0.7 ohms
    BLK/WHT to YLW/BRN = 0.6 ohms

    Secondary PLUG to BLK wire = Open

    Coil p/n is 105 552.03
    CDI p/n is 105 552.02

    I will have to look it up again to confirm, but I believe these are the pre-upgrade p/n's.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    ...CDI Red/Purple must also be over 10.6 volts while cranking...
    Quote Originally Posted by TurboLs1 View Post
    ...RED/PRPL CDI wire is 10.5v while cranking.

    The battery has 12.4v even after all the cranking so I know its charged...
    10.5 volts is very marginal for the CDI.

    It may or may not be able to deliver spark with only 10.5 volts at the CDI.

    Many batteries can hold a charge, yet still not be strong enough while cranking. Voltage while cranking is the critical capability. Polaris PWC require a really strong battery

    Testing with a weak or marginal battery can lead to false conclusions.

    The CDI part number you listed is an original CDI, not updated.

  10. #10
    casey67's Avatar
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    The secondary coil results trouble me, but the blk/-pur stator being open, you will never get spark. The stator is not not seperately,you need the update kit. It looks like http://www.partspitstop.com/pages/pa...d/default.aspx has the best price.

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