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  1. #1
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    Ultra 150 rpm limit-itis

    Get on your thinking caps boys and ladies

    a pair of skis...identical problems..sup[posedly started after filling up with fuel at a local marina

    rpm tops out at 3500..carbs seem ok..plugs too..and of course I pumped out the entire gas tank into my pickup, which didn't complain about that fuel ( didn't smell all that great)

    Fuel flow seems good..compression good..all of it seems good.

    Now this pair of skis had driveline failures within a day of each other..and having been saltwater boats, I'll entertain ANY ideas, no matter how outlandish..coincidence be dammed

    I'm leaning to checking the reed valves next...but of course being an ex salt....that's going to take some time..mor ebolts then a reactor core there.

    and I'll have a look inside the ignaiter box too.

    I've already checked the overheat sensor on the one in the tank..all good..

    a 500 rpm drop on each diconected cylinder..

    so perhaps the fuel pump?..gotta pull that tomorrow...those big fat screws are soaking in pb right now.


  2. #2
    btldigger's Avatar
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    Let us know what you find. There is a guy with a simmilar issue over on the ultra 150 board now. I wouldnt think reeds but sranger things have happened. I take it this is the same 2 you had to fight the pumps off of.

  3. #3
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    gemini skis

    barley separated at birth, the same thing likely on both skis. Cuts the diagnostic costs in half of course. Really odd it happened right after gassing up..but not the gas.


    They weren't winterized either..so I'm wondering what's really gone wrong.

    I'll pop over to U-150 and touch bases there too.

  4. #4
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    carbs clean

    even the tiny little fuel filter screens were in great shape.

    current theory...ethanol laden fuel allowed the pump diaphragm to stretch not permitting full fuel flow at wot.

    Speaking of ethanol..now all the stations at the lake have posted that the fuel is ethanol free.

    before I get into the mess of dealing with the reed valve gaskets and bolts I'm going to throw the dice and order a fuel pump,,,compared to the alternatives it's the cheapest guess I can make both for my time and the customers money, since both skis are reported to have identical problems.

    I can swallow the driveline bearings failing close together..but two guys driving identical mint green convertibles is a bit too much..even for me.

    While I'm waiting for the pump, I'll toss the carbs back on and do a better check on the ignition system, as far as a longshot as that may be.

    The problem being reported right after gassing up at the marina makes it really point to a fuel delivery problem.

    did I say I hate CV carbs?

  5. #5
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    I don't care for red herrings....

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_herring_(idiom)

    These ultras have had a massive pump bearing failure, the ENTIRE bad fuel/ignition/limp stuff was simply a red herring. Pulled one off yesteray, and it was +toast+

    Somehow a coincidence that they failed right after gassing up....knowing the history of these evil twin ultra's, I should have been quicker to tear the pumps out. Certainly easier then all the other "stuff" I had looked into believeing it was nasty marina gas that casued the problem

    The rpm limiting factor was the excessive drag the prop was causing while tring to bore it's way thru the stainless steel pump housing.

    Well add one more notch to the diagnostic belt and chalk it up to the fact that I've not had to ever deal with the innards of an ultra pump that had such a failure before.

    I have no doubt at all when I pull the pump off the second ultra today, I'm going to find the exact same thing.

    I love the kawasaki manal.."to remove tailcone, remove the three 6mm bolts and pull the cone off"...uhhhh right there superman..and how do you suggest I get off a cone that is obvioulsy frozen on there due to corrosion?

    Likely I'm going to trash it today, since there is no place to grab it or push on it, and my feeble atteps at tapping it free aren't going well. No matter since the prop may be beyound repair and the housing itself may not be in such good shape either.

    Oh yeah...now in the market for a couple of pumps..calling skiworx in a little bit.

  6. #6
    btldigger's Avatar
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    Hey Pete try rotating the cone. If you can get it to do that then pull back and rotate it may pop off at that point. You can pry slightly on the 3 mounting ears but be carfull they may break off if you pry too hard. If you can get ant sort of gap at all then a couple of flat wonder bars will get it off.

    If one of them has just been in the tank you might get a suprise. If the seals are bad it can presurise the pump cavity then blow off when you take the bolts out.

    At worst drill a hole all the way through near the pionty end of the cone and stick a screwdriver or rod through it to pull it off. I dont think the tail cone is a really expensive part.

  7. #7
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by btldigger View Post

    At worst drill a hole all the way through near the pionty end of the cone and stick a screwdriver or rod through it to pull it off. I dont think the tail cone is a really expensive part.
    good thing it's not an expensive part relative to the bit it's attached to, it's gone off to die grinder and chisel heaven, as it was just not budging. I got a few degrees of turn on it... Torched and PB'd to the point I had to open the doors and turn on the blowers ( it was an A/C day here yesteday..it was still 100 degrees at 7pm) . It's not done yet either..good thing this part of the job isn't on the clock, as it's been a tremendous physical risk to me ( i had a couple of narrow slice my hands open escapes already on this one), Just pissed me off that's all..and it's got the salt water weld itis going on.

    There did seem to be lots more water coming out of this thing then I thought there would be.

    So I'm looking for a couple of used pumps now, as this guy just wants these things out of his life, but he doesn't want to take any more of a loss then he has to (he could have bought a good used RXp for what he's laid into these things already) Problem is when you share skis with a bunch of your pals, they just get the crap beat out of them.

    K may think this pump is an advanced design..but the bearing setup surely does resemble a whales breathing appratus.

    yeah, I miss grease fittings on ball joints too..luckily my f-150 still has the orginal front end, zerks and all.

    Haven't pulled the second pump yet I'm doing some "rush" work today ( you can never rush the captain )..but I'm trying to expedite it so a nice family can enjoy the rest of the weekend here.

    "Cousin" johnny tried rebuilding the carbs last month...he read somehwere that you can just use silicon seal instead of new gaskets....

    well I'm done eatin my lunch..so it's back to the land of gumout and compressed air for now.

  8. #8
    btldigger's Avatar
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    I would think you could rebuild the pumps and find a couple of used stock props cheaper than a used pump. Depending on how bad it rubbed you might be able to pull a shim or 2 and the wear ring clearance be ok. Water comming out is a sure sign the bearings and seals are gone. The pump cavity holds a little over 1/2 a quart.

  9. #9
    I have an '99 Ultra with the same pump issue, but I have some additional questions.
    Should I get the 1999-2004 pump rebuild kit? Or the 2003-2005?
    btldigger, when you say the pump cavity holds over 1/2 a quart, are you suggesting that the pump needs to be reassembled with oil?

    Thanks very much!

  10. #10

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    I removed the pump from my 99' model and removed the flashing and smoothed it out a bit. My goal was to match all the pump parts without getting into a major machining job. After seeing pictures of other ultra 150 pumps, mine was terrible! Also, I removed the bearing seals and filled the cavity with oil. I used Mobil1 5w30. I figured if the mod was to cut down on friction then... motor oil instead of gear oil would be better.
    I think the mod is worth doing for more than one reason. If the front seal goes bad and ANY water gets in the front bearing, its toast. But if you are lucky and catch it, some water can get in the oil and you can save your pump bearings.
    After the mod, I know the impeller is easier to turn vs one with new sealed bearings but after the sealed bearing pump is broken in, I dont really know.

    After the mod, I got maybe 1.5 mph. more like 1mph I think. I haven't done the mod to my intake grate yet.

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