06-05-2010, 05:26 PM #1
Clutch Replacement (words of caution)
Thought I would start a new thread an quick hijacking Julio's.
BE EXTREMELY CAUTIOUS WHEN REINSTALLING THE BOLT THAT HOLDS THE SUPERCHARGER CLUTCH ASSEMBLY TO THE CRANK.
I cannot stress this enough. The bolt is not very strong. It is also hollow and has oil passage holes that go from the hollow center to the outside of the bolt. It is very awkward to get a regular sized toque wrench inside the hull to torque this bolt. I actually thought something was wrong with my torque wrench so I even took it out to make sure it would "click" on one of my truck's lug nuts. It "clicked" no problem. Put it back in the hull and continued to tighten and it never once clicked until it snapped the SC assembly bolt in half.
My bolt broke off right at one of the oil passage holes that comes off the hollow center.
Since the bolt is reverse threaded, I knew I would probably not be able to use a regular easy out since they are for regular threaded bolts. I decided to pull the motor and drill and tap the part of the bolt that was left over in the crank and then screw in a smaller bolt to back the crank bolt out.
Once the motor was out I took a small drill bit and started turning it inside the hollow center of the crank bolt. There was no tension on the threads and the bolt backed it's self out immediately so there was no need to tap the hole or use another bolt. Lucked out there.
Anyway, hope my pain serves as a caution to anyone who attempts to replace the supercharger clutch on their own. I would highly recommend using a digital torque wrench when reinstalling the clutch crank bolt. Don't be an idiot like me! I think the torque spec is 59 ft pounds but I cannot find that spec anywhere in the service manual for whatever reason. I will be confirming that here shortly.
I want to give a BIG thanks to Bruce at Riva. Because of him and my buddy Eric (SHOdude) in FL, I will have a new crank bolt at my house at 10am on Monday morning, giving me enough time to drop the motor back in and button everything down before I leave for Mudbug on Tuesday afternoon.
THANK YOU BRUCE AND ERIC!
06-05-2010, 06:13 PM #2
holly sheet, as if the wound wasnt big enough changing the clutch, glad you got sorted though
06-05-2010, 06:14 PM #3
Shit, I thought I had a lot of work to finish before MB. I'm having a hard time believing the torque spec is that high...looks like an M10. The big ass M10's that hold the pump on only get torqued to 29ft/lbs.
edit...I was wrong. It really is 59ft/lbs. The srvc manual section on the oil pump/drive gear are found on pages 5-42 to 5-51.
06-05-2010, 06:32 PM #4
Dude all the best with everything and getting it knocked out ASAP. Sounds like you have some awesome help there. I still remember that feeling when I was changing out that supercharger wheel and then hearing/feeling the pop of the bolt giving way. This is a whole nother scale.
Thanks for the heads up because god help me if that ever happened to me over here in Japan. I'd just pull out the wallet and go F*CK IT, Yamaha you do it. I can't wait to be somewhere where if the inevitable happens I can tear it down in my garage and fix it myself with some brew.
06-05-2010, 07:00 PM #5
Good gosh, what a p.i.t.a.
hope you get it squared away...
06-05-2010, 07:12 PM #6
06-05-2010, 08:55 PM #7
The clutch itself is a big job... yours was huge! Thanks for the warning and pics...
The bolt broke even though you were using the correct torque... thats a bitch
As a precaution would you recommend getting a new 'SC assembly' to crank bolt when doing the SC clutch?
06-05-2010, 08:55 PM #8
Man--I was shocked to see your post last night that you were pulling your motor... Glad you god it figured out.
I've got a Snap-On extrator set that has left handed drill bits as well as easy-outs that I've had for a while. Normally, on a broken bolt, it will un-screw while drilling it with the left hand drill bit.
I'll buy next week. That is until I run out of $.
06-05-2010, 09:08 PM #9
I'd toss that torque wrench in the garbage can BUTTMAN... are you sure that it even torques properly when in reverse Most don't!
06-05-2010, 09:18 PM #10
This is the bolt in question. I would recommend replacing it if you have time to wait for it to come in. Otherwise, you takes your chances. If the bolt did not have a channel in it I wouldn't have worried about it as much.
The bolt (Part # 6S5-17031-00-00) is $21 Riva's price. I bet you can get it closer to $14.37 . Cheap insurance.
I would also recommend replacing the oil pump gasket and associated o-rings as well. Do it right, do it once. Also, I would recommend regular old oil on the bearing and clutch prior to installation. Not assembly lube.
As a related side note (suggestion), it might be a good idea to have a list of locations to send typical brand torque wrenches in once a year (thank you Army) since there are some critical torques that we see.
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