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  1. #1

    Last hope before i have to take my ski to a repair shop, Please Help if you can...

    I am about at wits end with this ski. If anyone has any other ideas i would greatly appreciate it! Here is the problem as detailed as i can be.

    Model: 96 GSX (787)

    Problem: After I idle around for 5 min and let everything warm up, the ski will hit a top of 4000 rpm. It will hit 4000rpm at half throttle, and going to wot throttle does not change anything. The ski will cut in and out and rpms will randomly drop. After about 15 min at 4000rpm, the ski will then do 5000 rpm. Another 10 min it will do 5900 rpm and that is the max it will do. At wot the ski will still suddenly drop to 4k for a sec then jump back to 6 on glass water. One other thing i notices was that if i hit either a series of waves, or a decent sized one, upon landing the ski will either shut off or drop down to about 2000rpm for a few seconds.

    Things attempted to fix problem:

    1. Cleaned rave valves and bought new gaskets, also tried riding with the caps off around the lake and same issue.
    2. Noticed my water regulator bellow had a little water in it so i replaced the bellow, no water but still same issue.
    3. Replaced all fuel lines and cleaned carb screens and selector switch.
    4. Made sure butterflies were both opening the same and that all speed screw adjustments were correct.
    I apologoize for the long post, i tried to be as detailed as i can. The one thing that hopefully can help someone figure this out is the dying after hitting a wave and the fact that it runs better the hotter it gets. Thanks for your time!


  2. #2
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelers87 View Post
    I am about at wits end with this ski. If anyone has any other ideas i would greatly appreciate it! Here is the problem as detailed as i can be.

    Model: 96 GSX

    Problem: After I idle around for 5 min and let everything warm up, the ski will hit a top of 4000 rpm. It will hit 4000rpm at half throttle, and going to wot throttle does not change anything. The ski will cut in and out and rpms will randomly drop. After about 15 min at 4000rpm, the ski will then do 5000 rpm. Another 10 min it will do 5900 rpm and that is the max it will do. At wot the ski will still suddenly drop to 4k for a sec then jump back to 6 on glass water. One other thing i notices was that if i hit either a series of waves, or a decent sized one, upon landing the ski will either shut off or drop down to about 2000rpm for a few seconds.

    Things attempted to fix problem:

    1. Cleaned rave valves and bought new gaskets, also tried riding with the caps off around the lake and same issue.
    2. Noticed my water regulator bellow had a little water in it so i replaced the bellow, no water but still same issue.
    3. Replaced all fuel lines and cleaned carb screens and selector switch.
    4. Made sure butterflies were both opening the same and that all speed screw adjustments were correct.
    I apologoize for the long post, i tried to be as detailed as i can. The one thing that hopefully can help someone figure this out is the dying after hitting a wave and the fact that it runs better the hotter it gets. Thanks for your time!
    did you rebuild the carbs? its a cheap fix, 40 dollars per kit, better than taking it to a shop, rebuild them and post back.

  3. #3
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Remove the front cover on the engine and inspect the inductive pickup. The ears would break on original ones, from casing waves and riding in rough chop. It sounds like you have a broke one.

    Great detailed post on the symptoms too, btw.

  4. #4
    As always, Thanks again for the feedback from you two
    The carbs were rebuilt last summer and only have about 35 hours on them. As for the inductive pickup, is this a very difficult job to fix? Are these possible to be seen in an engine diagram, i am not sure exactly where to look for them?
    Thanks again guys!

  5. #5
    Rectifier/Regulator problem perhaps.
    Open the Grey electrical box (careful--those (4) tabs crack easily) and temporarily disconnect the RED wire from the R/R Module. Re-assemble and mount the Grey Box and take it for a spin on the water to see if the symptoms go away. You will be running directly off the Battery so don't stay out too long. If it's the R/R Module acting up then you should see a difference in operation within 5 minutes or less when it starts to feel like it's running on one cylinder like the plugs are fouling, which they might be, so carry an extra set.

    Otherwise, Inductive Pickup is a good place to look next but a lot harder to get to since the Pipe is in the way and the Front motor mount is attached to the Magneto Cover you need to remove to access it.

    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....pe=13&A=36&B=1

    ITEM #9 Easy to get to after Mag. Cover is removed but you must wire a new one into the front connector if it is damaged. A tedious little job in itself.

    There is a wiring harness 'tap-in' "tool" which allows the output from the I/P to be checked w/o cutting any wires. Should have a pulsing .3~.5V A.C. output when turning the engine over.

    Internal Pipe seal from the Pipe Water Jacket into the Pipe interior or WCV sticking open continuously injecting water to the Mid-Pipe fitting can also cause similar symptoms.

    Exhaust leak also possible w/ engine air intake contamination,,, ride it with the seat off to check.

    Also cut back a 1/4" from the ends of the Spark Plug wires and reseat (screw them) back into the Boots to eliminate that possibility.


    DvD

  6. #6
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Chock the engine under the front flywheel cover with a 6" block of 2x4, laid on it's side. The pipe doesn't have to come off. The 2x4 supports the engine when you unbolt and remove the front engine mount. The hardest bolt to access is the lowest, make sure you get them all. There will be an area you can stick a screwdriver blade in, on the sides, to separate them. There are locating dowels on there too so it has to come straight out about 3/8".

  7. #7
    Thanks guys! Ill start off with the rectifier since it seems to be the easiest to test first. Once the red wire is pulled, it should run smooth if it is the rectifier causing the issue? Also if you dont mind, what exactly does the Inductive Pickup do? would both of these cause the ski to run better as it is ran longer and longer?

    Thanks again!

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by steelers87 View Post
    Thanks guys! Ill start off with the rectifier since it seems to be the easiest to test first. Once the red wire is pulled, it should run smooth if it is the rectifier causing the issue? *If*, that is the only issue, yes. Also if you dont mind, what exactly does the Inductive Pickup do? It triggers CDI which in turn lights off the Spark Plugs through the Coil. would both of these cause the ski to run better as it is ran longer and longer? NO, which make me believe you have more than one problem.


    Thanks again!
    *

  9. #9
    @
    Last edited by David_HX_RXP; 06-06-2010 at 06:19 PM. Reason: @

  10. #10
    Never said to actually *remove* the Pipe, just that it is in the way. Be sure to support the front the the engine behind the Magneto Cover like Robert described before removing the Mag. Cover off the front engine mount. When you remove it, the small off-white plastic piece which falls out will be the adapter drive fitting between the Oil Pump and the nose of the Crankshaft. Be sure it goes back in the same way it came out.

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