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  1. #1

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    Genesis--no juice!

    Brand new member here, but I've used this site many times---what a great source of info.

    I have a 1999 Genesis, carburated. While de-winderizing, I found a mouse nest along with chewed wires just behind the MFI. I replaced/repaired the wires and re-connected the battery, but still have no juice going to the MFI. I re-set the circuit breaker, to no avail. I believe there should be a 1/4 fuse in the elect. box, but there isn't one. Is there another box somewhere? Where is this fuse? I'm clearly missing the obvious.

    Also, the bilge pump doesn't work and of course, can't find that fuse either.

    Can someone please point me in the right direction?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    The 1999 Genesis has TWO electrical boxes, if I am not mistaken.

    One in the front, another towards the rear.

  3. #3

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    K447--I had hoped you would chime in! Is the front box located behind the access panel, visible from the front storage compartment? If so, I can't get all the screws out---seems like the nut on the backside is spinning.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CJC View Post
    ...Is the front electrical box located behind the access panel, visible from the front storage compartment?

    If so, I can't get all the screws out---seems like the nut on the backside is spinning.
    It has been awhile since I last had my head inside a Genesis.

    Have a look forward from the engine compartment area. Perhaps you can get at the back side of the access panel from there.


  5. #5

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    hi buddy elec box is behind panel in front compartment. yea screw sieze nut turns in plastic, get what you can out. then put a flat blade screw drive behind panel were screw is. twist blade to pull siezed nut out of back fixing, i then fitted stainless self tapping screws. hope this is of help.

  6. #6

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    Justfun--thanks for the tip. Found the 2nd elect panel as you suggested.

    Unfortunately, the fuses that I thought would be blown, are perfectly fine. Now I'm stumped. Does anyone have any suggestions? What are some of the components that might have failed? Does anyone have a wiring schematic for a 1999 Genesis?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CJC View Post
    ...the fuses that I thought would be blown, are perfectly fine. Now I'm stumped. Does anyone have any suggestions?

    What are some of the components that might have failed? ...
    Did you actually remove the fuses and check them with an ohm-meter?

    Unplug the MFI display connector. Check for power at the Red/Purple (Red/White on some models) and Black wires (pins 2 & 3).

    If no power at the MFI connector, disconnect the battery negative, and start check the power and ground wires for continuity from the display connector back to the electrical box.

    Polaris Virage TXi 12-pin MFI display wiring connections

    Pin - Colour - Function
    1 - Purple/White - Starter solenoid enable to ground (when security code not locked)
    2 - Red/Purple (Red/White on some models) - 12 volt power
    3 - Black - Ground
    4 - Tan/Orange - Check Engine Message and warning LED (Ficht EMM only)
    5 - Pink - Fuel level, 33ohms=Full, 240ohms=Empty
    6 - Blue - oil level, 33ohms=Full, 240ohms=Empty
    Note: Grounding 5+6 causes MFI security code reset to factory 1234 when MFI is woken
    7- Tan - Carb and Ficht models, switched to ground to activate overheat display indicator
    8 - Gray/Red - Reverse warning lamp (grounded=LED active), also grounds RPM limiter signal via diode on terminal board (Gray wire to CDI)
    9 - Green/White - Reverse or Trim motor input
    10 - Blue/White - Reverse or Trim motor input
    11 - N/C
    12 - Yellow - RPM signal

  8. #8

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    Update folks:
    Per K447, I re-check my fuse and power to the MFI. The fuses are indeed still good and I have 11.2 Volts at the red/purple wire. After doing some further investigation, it appears the stator provides the ground for the entire electrical system. There is no 2nd wire connecting the electrical to the engine block or neg. battery terminal.

    So, I ran a temporary neg wire, directly from the battery to the electrical box in the engine compartment, providing a ground. The MFI powers-up and appears to work fine. After further testing, I've concluded I somehow lost the ground between the stator and the it's plug connected to the electrical box. There is no physical damage to the wires coming off the stator or the plug.

    Should I be exploring the stator or simply install a permanent neg wire to the electrical box? I saw some other posts about a 2nd wire, but I'm not sure this is the safest solution.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CJC View Post
    Update folks:
    Per K447, I re-check my fuse and power to the MFI. The fuses are indeed still good and I have 11.2 Volts at the red/purple wire. After doing some further investigation, it appears the stator provides the ground for the entire electrical system. There is no 2nd wire connecting the electrical to the engine block or neg. battery terminal.

    So, I ran a temporary neg wire, directly from the battery to the electrical box in the engine compartment, providing a ground. The MFI powers-up and appears to work fine. After further testing, I've concluded I somehow lost the ground between the stator and the it's plug connected to the electrical box. There is no physical damage to the wires coming off the stator or the plug.

    Should I be exploring the stator or simply install a permanent neg wire to the electrical box? I saw some other posts about a 2nd wire, but I'm not sure this is the safest solution.
    The Black wire in the cable bundle connecting the stator to the electrical box does indeed provide ground for everything in the electrical box.

    The Black stator wire carries ground current for the following;
    Start solenoid
    MFI display
    Bilge pump
    LR Voltage regulator (and RPM signal to MFI display)
    CDI ignition module
    Engine kill circuit (Lanyard) indirectly
    Ignition coil high voltage circuit
    Note: That last one is often forgotten. The ground between the engine and electrical box carries the high voltage pulses from the spark plug coils. After the high voltage pulse jumps the spark plug gap, it then travels through the engine block and ground wires back to the electrical box, and then back to the coils to complete the high voltage circuit.
    Does the engine crank and start without the additional ground wire between battery and electrical box?

    I would suggest looking for signs of damage to the stator cable bundle. Perhaps those mice also chewed on the stator wiring.

    Another possibility is that the internal grounding connection between the stator itself and the actual engine block has corroded or become loose. I suggest ohm checking all the stator coils, both with and without your secondary engine ground connection.

    One of the reasons for not having a separate wire connection between the battery negative and the electrical box is safety. If the main heavy battery negative wire was to develop high resistance or become disconnected (corrosion or loose wire connection), then the small secondary ground to the battery would suddenly be asked to carry the very heavy electrical current required by the stater motor.

    The much smaller wire of course cannot handle such a load, and would become very hot. The danger is an electrical fire.

    I suggest you find and repair the broken stator ground connection.

    If you still elect to utilize a second grounding wire from the electrical box, do not run it to battery negative.

    Instead, run your secondary ground wire from the electrical box directly to the engine block. This avoids the potential fire risk described, and provides a fairly direct path for all the electrical signals between the engine and the electrical box ground.

  10. #10

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    K447: Thank you for the quick response. To answer your questions: 1)The engine will only turn-over with the supplementary ground wire. It will not turn-over with it. I haven't tried to run the engine with the supplementary wire. 2) No chewing damage to the stator cable bundle.

    This leads me to inside the stator, which won't be fun! I'll be chugging along on this morning..let me know if you can think of anything else in the meantime.

    Thank you once again.

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