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  1. #1
    cheatin' piston popper addicted's Avatar
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    Easy 100 rpm for 750's

    Didn't see this posted, so here goes.
    The cooling orifice in the top of the pipe is 3mm stock. The later models have a 1mm hole. 2 options, buy the stocker from a later model, or modify your own. All you need is a #100 main jet, and a M5 tap and drill.

    This might work for 650's as well???
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  2. #2
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    That is a great little tip, the first time I saw it it was crazya that posted it.

  3. #3
    Bing-A-Ding-Ding-Ding, Brrrrrap! Brrrrrrrrrap!!! Polaris_Nut#1's Avatar
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    Yupper, I have posted that a couple of times when listing my 750 setup, but the main jet trick is new to me. Neat idea.


    edit:
    Yup, spacers, reeds, primer, flame arrestors, bilge pump. Oh anyone with a 750 should change the cooling orifice on the exhaust pipe to the one out of a 780, smaller diameter puts less water and an about a 100 rpm gain. I just wanna keep em reliable now. So, maybe I'll get me two of those brackets over the winter.
    I knew I had it up there a couple of times. I like the jet idea though, you could run all sorts of sizes.
    Last edited by Polaris_Nut#1; 09-27-2006 at 12:32 PM.

  4. #4
    cheatin' piston popper addicted's Avatar
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    Actually, I think one of your old posts on the SBT site gave me the initial info, and my inherent cheapness, along with return line restrictors gave me the main jet idea.

  5. #5
    Bing-A-Ding-Ding-Ding, Brrrrrap! Brrrrrrrrrap!!! Polaris_Nut#1's Avatar
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    If you don't mind riding in ice water you could probably go .05 mm, you would have to fatten up the mixture for the cold air too. A drysuit would be a must to keep from freezing. The water would keep the engine cool. I remember taking mine out one year in April, work boots, shorty wet suit, sweat pants, sweat shirt, life vest, winter hat and gloves. It really rips, cold lean and mean.

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