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  1. #1

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    Viton Supercharger Seal

    Many people are having problems with oil leaking past the oil seal in the supercharger. This is usually noticed right at the coupler on the intake side of the supercharger. This eventually goes through the rest of the intake plumbing, which loads every thing up with oil and reduces the efficiency of the intercooler. The understanding is that the heat warps and deforms the stock seal. These Viton seals are good for up to 400 degrees. The OEM are rated around (200-250 degrees)
    I have sold these to numerous people of which are getting excellent results. This seal is much better than the stock seal and has solved alot of oil seal leaks.. It is Viton and has a double lip. Just a FYI, these aftermarket seals are also cheaper then the OEM seals. So might as well upgrade while changing it out.

    Due to a recent price increase and the hassle of having to import these from overseas I spoke to Jerry and he has agreed to take these on and offer them in the online store. The link to order them is here
    http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1664

    2 ways to install the Seal: Either use the tool or a screwdriver.
    The tool allows the retaining ring that the seal is seated in, to be easily be removed without having to remove the shaft or rebuild the charger.
    The link to order the tool is here
    http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1665

    Option 1: (Screwdriver) Remove the front cover and s/c wheel. Take a small screwdriver and a hammer and pierce a hole in the seal. Then with the screw driver pry the seal out. Then take the correct size socket and tap in the new seal. Make sure to put some grease on the outside of the seal and some oil or grease on the inside of the seal so it doesn't have a dry start.

    Option 2: (Tool) Take the front cover off the Scer.Remover the Scer lock nut that holds the Scer wheel on.(Remember this nut has reverse threads). Remove Scer wheel,hat and o-ring assembly. Take the tool and slide it over the Scer shaft till the 4 pins lock into the seal housing. Spin the seal housing off.
    6.Take a small screw driver and pry the old seal out. Once the old seal is out clean the seal housing out from any oil or debris. Take the new seal and using a hammer and flat socket the size of the seal gently tap the new seal into place in the housing. Once the seal is installed into the housing,take loctite or teflon tape to the housing threads and dab a little oil on the seal surface to prevent a dry start on the seal..Then re-install the seal housing,Hat and oil ring,Scer wheel and then front cover to OEM specs..

    Option #1 is much easier depending on the charger. Just be careful not to scratch or mar any of the sealing surfaces/shaft

    *Just a note: The service manual says heat is/and or maybe required to release the loctite on the retaining ring (see attachment below). Depending on if the charger has been apart and or how much loctite was used on the retaining ring will change how easy or hard it will be to remove the ring.

    So there are 2 options. Either one can be done. Option #1 is faster and easier but could pose a risk of scratching the shaft/retaining ring if your not careful with the screwdriver and happen to slip. Option 2 is the preferred way if the retaining ring will come out.


    * With either installation method, more so the screw driver method, make sure the seal is seated and installed straight, not cocked or crooked.



    Please check out the pictures below. Notice how the viton seal has a more durable double lip seal compared to the single lip on the OEM. I have included a couple pages of the service manual talking about removing the seal housing (retaining disc).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Speed_Freak_039A; 09-07-2010 at 10:32 PM.


  2. #2
    Moderator Snoman's Avatar
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    You guys with the big Scers that are creating alot of heat, or you guys with the X-Chargers might want to look into these..Nick and myself will be testing these out on a 2 rude and 2 X-chargers..Vern and marc340 are already running these seals with no issues..They will not sell to the general public.....Nick has a connection who is willing to get these if enough people want them..Let me or Nick know....

  3. #3
    Vern's Avatar
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    I pulled my SC off yesterday ... I have run about 5 full tanks of gas thru the ski so far this year, SC is dry as a bone, no oil in the SC, none in the air intake, no oil anywhere! My stock seal was warped and looked like crap after only 25 hrs on it ... so I love the Viton seal in mine.

    I know a lot of us have plugged the oil hole in the newer SC housings thinking that was causing our oil in the SC issue ... I now think it was that the factory seal just cannot handle the heat/boost/suction behind the wheel of the X and bigger SCs. My guess is that people with oil in the SC should just change to a Viton double lip seal and leave the oiling hole open ...

    FWIW I was able to very easily pry/pull my old seal out and push in the new one without removing the retaining disc. You might get lucky too ... either way tho, if you have oil in our SC, IC, or intake get the seal, it works.

  4. #4

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    Thankx for the update Vern. . Like Vern said, you might be able to get away with just prying the seal out with a screwdriver or something. But there is always the risk of scratching the shaft of the seal housing. I would rather play it safe. To each its own. IMO, much easier to remove the retaining ring and pop the seal off.

  5. #5
    Moderator Snoman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vern View Post
    I know a lot of us have plugged the oil hole in the newer SC housings thinking that was causing our oil in the SC issue ... I now think it was that the factory seal just cannot handle the heat/boost/suction behind the wheel of the X and bigger SCs. My guess is that people with oil in the SC should just change to a Viton double lip seal and leave the oiling hole open ...
    Im beginning to think the same thing Vern..We have a 3 Rude here in Chicago that was pissing oil bad..He took the seal out and it was messed up too...These Stock seals were originally made for the little 7 LBS Scers..Now that they went bigger they may have forgot about the heat thing and the rubber used in the OEM ones cannot hold up to the heat...Im hoping to have 3 more Scers with these seals in them by the 4th of July with hours on them..A 2 X-Chargers and a 2 Rude...Hopefully we can then post some more results..As far as just pulling the seal out by hand,I know the manual says that BUT if your seal is in there that loose then theres another spot for oil to be sucked or leak around..All the seals ive replaced ive had to use a screwdriver and hammer to and pry it out..And as far as putting them back in??They should not just push in...They should go in like a wheel bearing grease seal,youll want them on a flat surface and use a nice flat edge like a socket and tap them in to seat it properly... You got lucky Vern..

  6. #6
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    After 2 seasons of tracing my oil issue, which resulted in an IC SOAKED internally with oils and crap...I found my seal (from 08 rebuild kit) to be leaking pretty bad ...New sealed installed last week, went for a long ride, just checked the hoses....DRY!

    I highly recommend this seal, will save a lot of maintenance down the line

  7. #7

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    Thankx for the feedback danny. Great to hear.

  8. #8
    Mine is still dry too, highly recommended as well!

  9. #9
    home of the dislexic fingers breon's Avatar
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    had a leaky seal.... just installed one... we will see...
    blew off a boost tube a while back..and it was covered in oil....it was worn out from 3 years of on and off...and the bend i used were thin... so i made a new one ... then switched set ups and when i removed it it was also covered in oil...so i figured it was the charger seal.......

    you can see all the oil on the inside of the charger...


  10. #10

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    Wow, that thing was spraying everywhere,

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