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  1. #1

    Exclamation 2010 GTX155 Leaking rear hatch

    Hi all,

    I am new to this forum and about to buy a 2010 GTX155.
    I took it for a test run in light chop and tested the reverse and break function extensively. A fair bit of water flows over the rear deck during this.
    Back on land we opened the ski and there was about 1-2" of salt water in the hull. Is that normal? (I think not!!! considering the test was only about 15-20 mins)

    I'm sure most of the water entered through the rear deck hatches that don't seem to seat properly onto the deck recess. Has anyone experienced this?

    My questions are these -

    1. Should I have the bilge pump option fitted? (I am adverse to having a hole cut in my new hull)

    2. The ski claims to be fitted with "Dual automatic vacuum siphon pumps".
    Should these not clear water from inside the ski?

    3. Would anyone else buy a new bloody ski that leaks?????????????

    Cheers in advance for your advise....



  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    226
    Quote Originally Posted by highjynx View Post
    Hi all,

    I am new to this forum and about to buy a 2010 GTX155.
    I took it for a test run in light chop and tested the reverse and break function extensively. A fair bit of water flows over the rear deck during this.
    Back on land we opened the ski and there was about 1-2" of salt water in the hull. Is that normal? (I think not!!! considering the test was only about 15-20 mins)

    I'm sure most of the water entered through the rear deck hatches that don't seem to seat properly onto the deck recess. Has anyone experienced this?

    My questions are these -

    1. Should I have the bilge pump option fitted? (I am adverse to having a hole cut in my new hull)

    2. The ski claims to be fitted with "Dual automatic vacuum siphon pumps".
    Should these not clear water from inside the ski?

    3. Would anyone else buy a new bloody ski that leaks?????????????

    Cheers in advance for your advise....

    There have been reports of leaking ports on models so equipped. I have another post about water in the bilge on this forum. In my case I think water got into the bilge through an improperly closed seat. I too was wondering why the water wasn't evacuated by the siphon bailer system.

    I believe one owner was able to seal the port by adding some additional gasket material to the port. One other poster had his warped ports replaced.

    I think the first place to start is to hose down the rear deck while on shore, dry off the top of the port and then remove it to look for traces of water leaking - then talk to the dealer about it. I asked my dealer to water test my ports before delivery. He said he did and that they were not leaking. I haven't done the test myself, but will, if water reappears in the bilge the next time I ride (i.e. the seat is locked down properly and water still appears in the bilge).

    Please let us know what your dealer says about the port problem. You are not the only one with port leaks, but I think it is more serious when you are operating in a salt water environment (not that I like water in my bilge even in fresh water).

    grover

  3. #3
    Thanks Grover,

    I bet you have leaky ports too. On all the new skis I've looked at the hatch fits poorly to the deck recess.
    The solution seems to be closed cell foam strips with adhesive backing stuck to the deck recess. At least this is the dealers answer. A thicker rubber seal in the hatch itself would be better I think.
    I will make them do the water test before I buy.
    I recon a ski should stay pretty much dry inside with normal use. As you say your older model never had water inside!!!

    As for the siphon bailer system I have figured out this. The siphon tubes project into the jetpump venturi and when water rushes past it creates a low pressure at the opening of the tube. This draws through the bailer system while you have power on. The other end of the tubes are connected to the drain plugs which incorporates a check valve. They only evacuate water when the water flows back through your bilge and covers the drain port check valve. Once the check valve is under water it opens and allows the siphon to suck out the water. This method will never remove all the water. There is going to be some remaining in your keel.
    I'm probably going to have a bilge pump fitted. The dealer has agreed to do this at no charge. Although I'd really rather not cut through a new hull.
    Yamaha FX HO comes standard with the bilge pump. I think it's a must have if you're using the ski in the ocean as I will be.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by highjynx View Post
    Thanks Grover,

    I bet you have leaky ports too. On all the new skis I've looked at the hatch fits poorly to the deck recess.
    The solution seems to be closed cell foam strips with adhesive backing stuck to the deck recess. At least this is the dealers answer. A thicker rubber seal in the hatch itself would be better I think.
    I will make them do the water test before I buy.
    I recon a ski should stay pretty much dry inside with normal use. As you say your older model never had water inside!!!

    As for the siphon bailer system I have figured out this. The siphon tubes project into the jetpump venturi and when water rushes past it creates a low pressure at the opening of the tube. This draws through the bailer system while you have power on. The other end of the tubes are connected to the drain plugs which incorporates a check valve. They only evacuate water when the water flows back through your bilge and covers the drain port check valve. Once the check valve is under water it opens and allows the siphon to suck out the water. This method will never remove all the water. There is going to be some remaining in your keel.
    I'm probably going to have a bilge pump fitted. The dealer has agreed to do this at no charge. Although I'd really rather not cut through a new hull.
    Yamaha FX HO comes standard with the bilge pump. I think it's a must have if you're using the ski in the ocean as I will be.
    If I am getting water through the ports, I'll work with my dealer to resolve the issue. The first time I was out, I was in moderately choppy water and did some tight turns and stops using the iBR. There was definitely water on the rear deck during the ride, but the bilge was dry after the ride.

    I'm not opposed to adding closed cell foam as a temporary solution to stop water from collecting in the bilge. It is preferable to trying to get rid of the water once it gets in. I'm sure Sea Doo will have a fix for this "problem" if it is widespread. We'll have to wait and see what develops.

  5. #5
    Lets have a Lemon Law class action. EH?

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Canada
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    226
    I was out in pretty rough conditions this evening for about an hour (waves and tight turns) and checked my bilge ad rear ports after I returned. I didn't notice any water in the rear port area (maybe some drips as I took the wet port covers off) and while the bilge had about 1/2" of water forward of the engine, I did have water enter the bilge last weekend through what I thought was a loose seat (not latched down). I tried to sponge out the water but didn't get all of it.

    At this point I'm not sure f I took on more water, but I suspect I did. I'm not sure it came through the rear port covers though. I'd like to have a dry bilge as I did on my 2004 GTX, but I'm having such a blast with this now machine, I'll put up with it and get the dealer to figure out where the water is getting in.

    I'm ging to try and get the rest of the water out of the bilge (to bone dry) and then try the test again. This time before I take off the covers, I'll try and dry them off first so I don't drop water into an area where I am hoping to see dry hull.

    I'll keep you all posted.

    grover

    PS this ski turns in so sharply that if you are not prepared for it and add to much throttle, I could see someone flinging themselves off! this hull is way better than the old GTX hull even if it is a bit wet in the bilge!

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    226
    Another hour on the water today. Lots of tight turn son flat water and playing with the brake again. No added water to the bilge. If mine can stay dry, others can too.

  8. #8
    Good news about your water intake.

    I still have a little getting in. By the way I bought the ski after all.

    I removed the dealers gasket (adhesive closed cell foam tape) from the hatch recess and replaced with a thicker version from the marine shop. It has definitely improved things. I took the ski out for around 4 hours, 2 of which were in the ocean with chop. There was a little water in. The usual 1" or so. Before I went out the little water in the bilge was fresh water from my last hose out. When I came back there was a similar amount of water but it was now distinctly salty.
    So I think the bailer system is keeping water to that minimum but some leak is present. I can see some water inside the rear hatch area still. I'm gona get new rubber seals that are thicker.
    Some water enters if you get a wave over the bow, it comes in through the air intakes, but I'll accept that. I wont accept the leaking rear hatches.... Especially since the battery and electrics are right there.
    I recon the ski can be sealed but it will take some fiddling around. It's the kind of thing you are better off doing yourself than having a dealer fix as their care factor is just not there.
    Seadoo should have had this issue fully resolved before releasing these skis to market.

    Otherwise its a great ski, handles really well. And yes I have thrown myself off it twice with extreme manoeuvring.

  9. #9

    Join Date
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    Location
    Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by highjynx View Post
    Good news about your water intake.

    I still have a little getting in. By the way I bought the ski after all.

    I removed the dealers gasket (adhesive closed cell foam tape) from the hatch recess and replaced with a thicker version from the marine shop. It has definitely improved things. I took the ski out for around 4 hours, 2 of which were in the ocean with chop. There was a little water in. The usual 1" or so. Before I went out the little water in the bilge was fresh water from my last hose out. When I came back there was a similar amount of water but it was now distinctly salty.
    So I think the bailer system is keeping water to that minimum but some leak is present. I can see some water inside the rear hatch area still. I'm gona get new rubber seals that are thicker.
    Some water enters if you get a wave over the bow, it comes in through the air intakes, but I'll accept that. I wont accept the leaking rear hatches.... Especially since the battery and electrics are right there.
    I recon the ski can be sealed but it will take some fiddling around. It's the kind of thing you are better off doing yourself than having a dealer fix as their care factor is just not there.
    Seadoo should have had this issue fully resolved before releasing these skis to market.

    Otherwise its a great ski, handles really well. And yes I have thrown myself off it twice with extreme manoeuvring.
    Glad to hear you purchased one. Which model did you end up with?

    With respect to he ports, I wonder if some people are having difficulty because the adjustable bolts (allen key head) covered with rubber grommets are not adjusted correctly. These are located at the "hinge" end of he port cover. If they are too loose you won't get a good fit to the deck. If they are too tight (i.e. the bolts are adjusted to be too long) there will be too much "spring" in the port cover as you try to close it; creating a gap between the locking end and the hinge end of the cover. This could let water in as well.

    When I first looked at the Sea Doo I bought on the showroom floor, one of the rubber grommets was missing and the port cover fit loosely. The dealer located it behind the battery and put it back on. I plan to leave my covers in place until I purchase a few spares as they come off easily.

    Finally, if I find these port covers to be a constant source of problems, I'll silicone mine on (dealer's suggestion). It shouldn't be too difficult to pry the cover loose if service is needed. This would be a short term solution until BRP comes up with a redesigned cover.

  10. #10
    I got the name sake of this thread..... I didn't want super charger maintenance.

    I almost went the Yamaha FXHO. Was a close one, especially with the hatch issue. I liked the ride better on the seadoo. The Yammy was faster. The seadoo seemed a little better put together. More features also.

    I recon I can over come the hatch issue so I went for it in the end and had the dealer put in the contract that I'd be eligible to get any hatch up grades seadoo release.

    I know about the hinge adjustment. I'm going to source a better rubber gasket too.
    The plastic moulded hatches are slightly bowed. the rubber doesn't seat exaclty enough --- thats the facts. Poor job I'm afraid but it can be dealt with. Not very professional from seadoo to leave it to us to fix????

    Are you installing a bilge pump? The kit they offer has no check valve to stop backflow if you reverse your craft. I think it deals with that by just running continuously when you are powered up. Odd system I think. Although a float may not be practical either.

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