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Thread: 1995 750sl

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    1995 750sl

    I had the day off today so I took my Polaris up to Castaic Lake. It ran PERFECT. After half an hour of riding I came in. 15 minutes later I attempted to take it back out and all I got was the whirling of the starter and a barely perceptable grinding from within the motor case. I pulled it out of the water and pulled the plugs and hit the start button-no movement of any of the pistons. I didnt see any water. I could hear grinding. My opinion is the crankshaft is done for. Just wanted someone else to confirm this. Thanks


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    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Most likely the bendix.

    Remove the spark plugs and engine coupler cover.

    Turn the crank over by hand with the engine coupler. That should tell you if the crank is bad.

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    Most likely the Bendix...
    +1

    It does sound like the Bendix has failed.

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    750sl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    Most likely the bendix.

    Remove the spark plugs and engine coupler cover.

    Turn the crank over by hand with the engine coupler. That should tell you if the crank is bad.
    I did as you wrote and the crankshaft turns freely (no grinding). So I after removing the gas tank. I opened up the flywheel cover to take a look at the bendix. What I found was the nut had come off the crankshaft end and was sitting at the bottom of the cover. Metal shavings were sprinkled all over the inside cover. On the cover, closest to where the nut enters the crankshaft thread was gouged out. The cover itself has a one inch or so crack. What are my options now since I replaced the nut and everything appears to work now (pistons)? Put everything back or should I replace bendix anyway? Thanks

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    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Remove all the metal chips.

    If the bendix is fine, I'd give it a good lube with some WD 40 (blow off the excess) and put some red loctite on the crank taper, then put a little blue on the threads and torque the nut to spec.

    Get another stator cover and call it good.

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    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    Remove all the metal chips.

    If the bendix is fine, I'd give it a good lube with some WD 40 (blow off the excess) and put some red loctite on the crank taper, then put a little blue on the threads and torque the nut to spec.

    Get another stator cover and call it good.
    Cool

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    I was gonna say its the flywheel nut grinding on the stator cover!. that just happened to me.. the nut was half way off and the nut ground down the inside of the stator cover.. checks for cracks in the cover.. if you dont have a extra cover, you could just seal it and reuse it. it wont look good in there but it will work.

    just clean all the crap out of there.. its not the bendix, they rarely fail.. its just a helix gear moving a gear getting thrown at the flywheel.. Check all the teeth on the flywheel and the bendix.

    make sure that slot for the wheel is square .not knurled over from the woodruff key rolling around in there. did you find the woodruff key? what did it look like? did you replace it with a new one?

    after the nut is put back on, it wont hit anymore. get a geniune polaris woodruff key with the slot in it.. not a regular woodruff key!.. then use red locktite(high strength type, not the thread sealer)....its red also..

    check the tightness of the stator screws while your in there. also check where the stator mark is and if its still in time correctly.

    cover the threads, shaft and the key with loc-tite before reassembly. tap on with a brass or plastic hammer. then tighten to specs.

    I would spray trhe bendix down with starting fluid or brake clean, then put bearing grease on it and inside where the helix gear is. then on the outer and inner gears and put a dab in the stator cover bushing for the end of the bendix..

    work the bendix a few time to get it to move with the grease on it.. just to work things in to it.

    I also smeared a light coating inside the cover to catch any debris I may have missed. the grease will grab onto any tiny particles that may get in there now or in the future.


    matter of fact, watch my video of me having the exact same problem on my pro LIVE at it happened.lol same exact thing. funny I caught it all on video!.
    Last edited by bowsniper; 07-10-2010 at 09:05 PM.

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    750sl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    I was gonna say its the flywheel nut grinding on the stator cover!. that just happened to me.. the nut was half way off and the nut ground down the inside of the stator cover.. checks for cracks in the cover.. if you dont have a extra cover, you could just seal it and reuse it. it wont look good in there but it will work.

    The cover does have an inch or so crack on it. I was planning to use jb weld on it

    just clean all the crap out of there.. its not the bendix, they rarely fail.. its just a helix gear getting thrown at the flywheel.. Check all the teeth on the flywheel and the bendix.

    The teeth on the flywheel and bendix look fine

    make sure that slot for the wheel is square .not knurled over from the woodruff key rolling around in there. did you find the woodruff key? what did it look like? did you replace it with a new one?

    Woodruff key looked fine. I plan on reusing or is it best to just replace it anyway?

    after the hut is put back on, it wont hit anymore. get a geniune polaris woodruff key with the slot in it.. not a regular woodruff key!.. then use red locktite(high strength type, not the thread sealer)....its red also..

    Im going down to my local grangier and pick up locktite tommorow

    check the tightness of the stator screws while your in there. also check where the stator mark is and if its still in time correctly.

    Will do

    cover the threads, shaft and the key with loc-tite before reassembly. tap on with a brass or plastic hammer. then tighten to specs.

    Will do

    I would spray trhe bendix down with starting fluid or brake clean, then put bearing grease on it and inside where the helix gear is. then on the outer and inner gears and put a dab in the stator cover bushing for the end of the stator.

    work the bendix a few time to get it to move with the grease on it.. just to work things in to it/

    I also smeared a light coating inside the cover to catch any debris I may have missed. the grease will grab onto any tiny particles that may get in there now or in the future.

    Will do to all of the above


    matter of fact, watch my video of me having the exact same promblem on my pro LIVE at it happened.lol same exact thing. funny I caught it all on video!.

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    bowsniper's Avatar
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    i would replace the woodruff key, you already have it all apart anyways and thier cheap. good insurance to have a brand new on in there.

    i feel better about mine being tight with new stuff. remember, this stuff takes a beating loading and unloading from the pump coming out of the water/ plus puts a lot of stress on the flywheel key and other componets.

    you can see how on yours , your nut came off! lol

    use a giant off set wrench to tighten the wheel from sitting on top of the ski putting the wrench where the oil canister is. you can get good leverage from that spot.. laying down inside up front doesnt allow you to get the torque you need on the nut..

    Also stuff polyester line in the mag cylinder to keep the motor from spinning while tightening the nut.. just make sure that the rope doesnt get hung up on the port openings when turning the crank/. you want just the line to be held/ squished by the piston, not the port openings being cramed with line// get the piston half way up, then stuff the line in there.. about a foot or so will fit in there.. use like a 1/4 inch thick line.. like a bouy line for the ski.. makes sure its clean too! you can leave the other 2 plugs in, no biggie..

    Good luck! mine went pretty easy. just clean as ya go and everything will be fine...


    jb weld would work fine.. good idea.. maybe only do the outside just in case it falls off or chips off, that way the inside will never get that stuff in there.. the nut doesnt care what the cover looks like.lol you just want water to stay out of it..


    dont go crazy with the grease on the bendix or else it wont jump back into its hole and could get hung up from the grease holding on to it to hard when its released fron starting. make sure it snaps back off the helical gear nicely.. Now get to work! lol.. you have water to tear up! trim up, lean back and have fun!

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    750sl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    i would replace the woodruff key, you already have it all apart anyways and thier cheap. good insurance to have a brand new on in there.

    i feel better about mine being tight with new stuff. remember, this stuff takes a beating loading and unloading from the pump coming out of the water/ plus puts a lot of stress on the flywheel key and other componets.

    you can see how on yours , your nut came off! lol

    use a giant off set wrench to tighten the wheel from sitting on top of the ski putting the wrench where the oil canister is. you can get good leverage from that spot.. laying down inside up front doesnt allow you to get the torque you need on the nut..

    Also stuff polyester line in the mag cylinder to keep the motor from spinning while tightening the nut.. just make sure that the rope doesnt get hung up on the port openings when turning the crank/. you want just the line to be held/ squished by the piston, not the port openings being cramed with line// get the piston half way up, then stuff the line in there.. about a foot or so will fit in there.. use like a 1/4 inch thick line.. like a bouy line for the ski.. makes sure its clean too! you can leave the other 2 plugs in, no biggie..

    Good luck! mine went pretty easy. just clean as ya go and everything will be fine...


    jb weld would work fine.. good idea.. maybe only do the outside just in case it falls off or chips off, that way the inside will never get that stuff in there.. the nut doesnt care what the cover looks like.lol you just want water to stay out of it..


    dont go crazy with the grease on the bendix or else it wont jump back into its hole and could get hung up from the grease holding on to it to hard when its released fron starting. make sure it snaps back off the helical gear nicely.. Now get to work! lol.. you have water to tear up! trim up, lean back and have fun!

    One idea I had to tighten the nut and prevent the engine spinning was to have a friend hold the driveshaft with a pipe wrench while I hit the nut with a torque wrench. Am I risking damaging something using this procedure?

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