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  1. #1

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    '04 GTI locked up

    I just bought a 04 gti from a old guy he bought it new and the thing is like showroom says he only rode it like 5 times. Problem is its sat for 2 years in his garage and is locked up I looked in the plug holes with my boroscope and the tops of the pistons look brand new. I dumped some pb blaster down the plug holes and will let it sit overnight is there any way to break this loose before i tear it down. also this is only my second doo my first was a 92sp that you couldnt kill but ive rebuilt a couple of ex rental yamahas and dont have any seadoo manuals what is the best manual for this ski?


  2. #2
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    First thing to do is pull the pump to make sure it is not what is keeping the engine from turning over.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX View Post
    First thing to do is pull the pump to make sure it is not what is keeping the engine from turning over.
    I can get a little movement grabbing the pump shaft but the pto wheel wont budge pretty sure its the engine. The guy had it in a ac garage which is not good in fla cause when you open the door everything sweats I thought about this after I brought it home. I downloaded the manual but I dont see any Rbuild for the motor. the motor says 720 on it but everything i read is 717?whats the diff and what do i call the motor for ordering parts?
    thanks guys

  4. #4
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    A 717 is called a 720 (though it is actually 718cc).

    The pump has to come off regardless as that is how you get the driveshaft out.

    Make sure and pull the shaft seal and the collar in front of it back and pop the clip off the driveshaft BEFORE you pull the pump.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX View Post
    A 717 is called a 720 (though it is actually 718cc).

    The pump has to come off regardless as that is how you get the driveshaft out.

    Make sure and pull the shaft seal and the collar in front of it back and pop the clip off the driveshaft BEFORE you pull the pump.
    is the pump removal sticky aplicable to my ski?
    thanks for your input

  6. #6
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    I have not looked at it (no need,

    Pulling the pump on that hull is easy and intuitive. Just take a look back there and you will see what needs to come off. Just make sure and pull that clip first, as that is the trick.

  7. #7

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    I realy didnt think it was the pump so I pulled the engine mount bolts and slid the motor forward shure enough the engine was siezed. pulled it out tonight and pulled the head and cylinders. everything looks like new inside but the piston wrist bearings were siezed by rust soaked them with pb blaster and was able to drive out the wrist pins pistons look like new no wear the cylinders have no rust even the tops of the pistons are clean no combustion byproducts. with the pistons out the crank will move about a 1/8 of a turn back and forth before in stops. I'm thinking the bearings on the shaft that drives the rotary valve are frozen I can see rust locking up the needle bearings in the wrist and rod bearings but not the ball bearings on the crank. ripping the bottom end apart tomorrow if there is nothing broke I'm going to get seals and bearings and throw it back together.
    any comments on reassembly will be apreciated.
    Also any ideas what caused the rust It realy was stored in a ac garage all its life and by looking at the lack of wear on the pistons and cylinder walls I dont think it has 10 hours.

  8. #8
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    water in the waterbox...

    evaporates..and heads into the engine..specially if the breeze is right..over time it will lock up the engine after it condenses back into the evil killer of motors

    good idea to blip your ski a few times on the ramp before heading home to blow out the water.

    btw..this is why some owners manuals advise ou to fog the engine if you aren't using the ski for a few weeks

  9. #9
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    Absolutely.

    Either fog it (which will get you through a few months in most cases) or run it once a week, or take the water box out of the hull and seal up the exhaust and carbs (extreme, but if I was putting one up for a LONG time-as in years-I would).

    An HVAC equiped storage area helps, but if there was no protective lube (ie, fogging oil or the engine's own oil that you replenish by running it once a week) it will eventually get enough condensate built up to do the damage.

    I would go through the carb too. If they did not fog it you can be pretty sure they did not put Sta-bil in the gas either. Even with Sta-bil, you can only count on the gas being good for a matter of months, not years. You will want to get any gas out of the fuel tank as well.

    You will also want to change the pump oil as it has sat in there for at least two years. You should probably start praying that there was not any water in it too.

    You probably got a good deal on this thing if you did not pay too much for it even if you do have to replace the crank and such. Do not make it a waste of time by thinking the engine is the only thing that could be wrong.

    Two years is a long time for a properly stored machine to sit, let alone one that was apparently parked and forgoten.

  10. #10

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    I ve never bought a running ski this one realy is like it came out of the showroom my wife was like "you finaly bought a new ski?" she went off when I told her it was locked up. but it keeps me out of the bars at night. I kind of think the guy left the flush hose on after he shut the motor off. I usualy shut the hose off and crank the engine to blow out the water box.
    what do you recomend as a fogging procedure?

    Here is a before and after of my last ski. 92 sp
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