06-19-2010, 07:34 PM #1
Best drag racing setups on GPR....
I am curious to how you guys are setting up the GPR for drag racing.....
Interested in which plate, plate angle, which tabs (shims), props, anything.....
06-19-2010, 09:01 PM #2
i've been doing some "grudge" racing lately, either winning or at least holding my own.Ill tell you one thing, i would only race another ski on flat water.The GPR properly tuned and modified going an 1/8 of a mile on the flats can be tough to beat in my opinion.I recently raced an Aquatrax(turbo) ,RXP (slightly mod) and a bone stock FZR.I feel strongly a strong holeshot leaning forward keeping the bow down then shifting back your weight back on the back edge of the seat. Once your on "plane" ,press down on the back of seat keeping the pump and rideplate planted in the water, this all in a matter of a few seconds.Maybe some of the more experience racers can comment and discuss there setups.
BTW Don't race someone who's an A hole who does'nt show good sportmanship and race someone you can call a friend.And respect other boaters, swimmers and property
06-19-2010, 11:33 PM #3
Mech tabs, R&D pro shoe and grate, 83 to 85 mm nozzle(or a seadoo pump) Jims ff plate set up @ about a .750 to .800 ange. Maybe a skat 160mm pump. I must say after riding the blackbird(hydrotoys ski) The way he has his set up. Oh my gawd that thing hits hard. One blip on the limiter and then start praying to god that you have the strength to hang on to it.
06-20-2010, 09:22 AM #4
Thanks for the help guys.
I am currently using a stock pump shoe but sealed, HO pump, Jims FF plate at .950, R+D flat tabs shimmed at .150 on all four corners, 15/25 dynafly.
I want to be able to change the setups back and forth in a hour or so. I still want to go for speed runs but be able to change back to drag race in a few.
First thing is to change the SS grate for the 1200 and put in a 15/23 prop in another pump I have. So changing the plate angle could help a ton? What about tab shimming?
This boat has leos whole shot thing on it also, It is a Triple Piped 1390 lowell motor with stock carbs and vforce 3's....I cant remember for sure but i thing the pipes came from you Joe!!!......thanks....
06-20-2010, 09:25 AM #5
I had the 85 mm nozzle on it with the 1200 grate and it bucked like crazy but that was at 950 plate angle....With the 87 nozzle on, it will buck but not as much and only at high speeds....
06-20-2010, 11:34 AM #6
You can get rid of the buck by adding more shims to the tabs. The 1200 grate will make it buck where the 800 will not. But, if you want to drag race , just addd more to the shims. I would also run a smaller prop for drag racing so you can get in the pipes quicker. Also, when checking setups for drag racing , always time your runs. Do not use the gps speeds, the quickest time to the line will not be your highest gps speed.
06-20-2010, 11:57 AM #7
Yea, with the 800 grate I dont have any probs with the buck any more. Just with the 1200 grate.
I also have a 14/20 that pulls like crazy but turns too many revs....The 15/25 is just too much prop for drag racing. Takes a while to get her wound up......
So you shim tabs down for your drag racing setup???? What nozzle....?
06-20-2010, 12:27 PM #8
06-20-2010, 03:19 PM #9
I have shims for the front of the intake grate. I had to use them with the 800 grate before I got the pressure reliefs in place....
06-21-2010, 12:04 AM #10
I'm pretty damn happy with my drag race setup right now.
I'm running the SeaDoo pump with the 75mm adapter from Hydrojunkie and a billet driveshaft from Ted. It's a 3 blade prop. Don't remember the numbers off the top of my head. 2deg spacer, and a 81mm nozzle. The nozzle is tied to my mech tabs.
It's a 12r grate that is about a gazillion years old. It seems to be a better fit than the newer ones, and has less surface flaws too. I think it's a R&D.
My stock shoe is setup around .070. It needs to be up a little more but I don't have time right now.
I'm running a Jim's Plate, at about .9 with some "Woody Lovin" done to it.
My mech tab combo is very hard to explain, so I won't go into too much detail. They are absolutely flat on bottom. The mech tabs were removed. Instead I have a set of R-pot mech tabs mounted on the rear of the ski. You could also do this with a set of Oside Mech tabs. The beauty is that my mech tabs are mounted higher than my flat tabs, and do not have to be moved when I change tab location. They are always out of the way of the flat tabs.
The tabs, and nozzle are tied together on a motorcycle brake-lever on the left hand. I pull them on launch or in a corner. Otherwise the tabs are up/out of the stream, and the nozzle is at neutral trim.
The sponsons are a varient of a R&D first gen backing plates, with carbon fiber blades.... very thin.
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