Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 17

Thread: Trouble Code F1

  1. #1
    Eric Ocman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Cataula, Georgia, United States

    Trouble Code F1

    Can anyone give me an idea what this is and or how to correct??


  2. #2

    R12-X FI and Warning Light

    I bought a 2004 Aquatrax R12-x with 55 hours on it. I changed the

    battery, spark-plugs, oil, oil filter, right away. I rode this ski

    for about five hours without any problems. Until the last time I rode

    it. First after idling for about a minute or so by the dock, I

    gradually accelerated to WOT and reached 62mph then, the RPM went

    down to about 5400, it felt like the turbo would kick in whenever I

    would release the gas and push it back to WOT but then it would slow

    down again. Few minutes later the warning light came on with FI

    blinking constantly along with the buzzer alarm. At that point the

    RPM was limited to below 3000. I inspected the prop for any debris as

    well as the intake, everything was clear. Took the ski home tested it

    on the trailer, running it with the water hose attached. The FI and

    warning light are flashing at one second intervals consistently. I

    pressed Set and Mode for more than 5 seconds, but the flashing didn't

    change to give me an idea of what might be wrong. Another thing I

    noticed is that if I put the safety lanyard clip to the base of the

    engine stop switch and let the speedometer go through its startup

    screen, then pull the safety clip off and press the Start button,

    this will crank the engine but not start, probably because the fuel

    injection is off. Is that normal? It seems like a safety hazard.

    Please PM me or put this in the right place. I appreciate your help!

    Thank you.

  3. #3
    Dave Sharp dav_dman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    louisville Ky/so. IN
    need to find the code first.. see attached. Try the wgs procedure in the FAQ thread sticky section also.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  4. #4
    Pulled the codes today.
    If I read them correctly they are 25; 42; 15.

    I've also checked the spark-plugs, they looked good (they only have about 5 hours on them).

    What is my next step?

    Thank you dav_dman for the pdf. that helped clear up the jumper procedure for getting the codes.

  5. #5
    I've performed the WGS test. I took both of the rubber hose off and attached straws to the top and bottom lines with the power connector still connected. When the ignition is OFF I could not blow through either one of them. When the engine was idling I still could NOT blow through either one of them, however I did feel some sort of vibration as I built up the pressure in the top line but not the bottom one.

    Does this unit pass the test? Is it possible that this causes the RPM to surge at arround 4000 RPM and the WOT to be limited?

    Can anyone tell me if it is normal for the starter to crank when the start button is pressed IF the ignition was turned off, but while the display is still ON (you know how display stays on for a short while after the safety clip had been removed)?

    Also, while this problem with FI is consistent, I found that it is more likely and much sooner to set off the Buzzer and Warning Light/FI if the jet ski is in Limited Mode (beginner mode). I think it is because the RPM is then limited to the range that tells the sensors that there might be a problem with WGS or Turbo. What do you guys think?

  6. #6
    Dave Sharp dav_dman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    louisville Ky/so. IN
    Its an electromechanical valve. When the engine is at idle and up to stock boost limit..air is allowed to flow thru the valve , bleeding boost off the wastegate actuator. Once stock boost limit is approached, the valve more bleedoff..and the pressure hits the actuator (8psi spring) and moves the diapham/rod/wastegate to bleed boost off the turbine and keep the turbo from building any additional boost. I'm guessing here; nobody's explained it yet. Nitro correct me if I didn't figure it out correctly.

    At any rate, Nitro says at idle you should be able to blow clean thru it (bleeding off actuator, remember). Take it apart and see what it looks like.

  7. #7
    Thanks for the explanation dav_dman! I appreciate all your help on this.

    I kept playing with the WGS and after a few attempts to blow into it and suck the air out of it, the WGS started to let air through when the engine is idling, and keep the valve closed when OFF. Although, I can't say that the air moves through it freely it takes a bit of pressure. I am not sure if that is the way it should be or not. I placed an order from to replace this part because I just want to eliminate any variables. My next step will probably be resetting the memory and clearing any trouble codes. Installing the new unit, and testing if the RPM is stable at WOT and if it throws up any trouble codes again.

    Like I mentioned before the spark-plugs only have 5 hours on them, but how do I know for sure they are not bad? Do you guys have any photos that show what the bad ones look like?

    Thank you!

  8. #8
    Does anyone have detailed instructions on how to replace a knock sensor on R12-X?

    Pictures of the location, the part number, and where to get it would be very helpful. I am still waiting on my WGS to get here, but if it still throws an FI, I think my next step will be to replace the knock sensor.

  9. #9
    Dave Sharp dav_dman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    louisville Ky/so. IN
    it's some trouble. If you have a friend with an R you can swap the ecu with that would be better..and see it the code follows the ecu. Or ask your dealer if they can do that test without you buying a 700 dollar ecu.
    Otherwise, PM this guy for the knock sensor procedure:

  10. #10
    I build Horsepower
    NitroShark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    If you can not freely blow threw the WGS using my test, then it is bad.

    At idle the WGS is 100% open and does not pulse. This allows max boost to begin, once boost reaches it's preset starting point the valve will pulse to try and regulate the boost within a preprogrammed set range.

    This is called the Boost control range.

    Your WGS is bad. replace it.


Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Tip: Trouble codes for 4 Tec's
    By Green Hulk in forum Sea Doo How To & FAQs
    Replies: 73
    Last Post: 06-02-2017, 07:34 PM
  2. Please Help...Trouble Code!
    By RustySeaRustyDoo in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 34
    Last Post: 06-04-2009, 02:36 AM
  3. Code F1 - Tractor Noises and then nothing
    By bulletboy in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 06-04-2007, 06:16 AM
  4. HELP: Trouble Code 0326 Knock Sensor out of Range
    By majundecid in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 05-23-2007, 08:13 AM
  5. trouble code ?
    By Krazy-K in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 08-01-2005, 07:18 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts