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  1. #1

    2001 Genesis Ficht poor performance

    My 2001 Genesis started acting up last fall. I have read several threads and did several things but no smoking gun yet. It idles fine and starts easy. It sometimes hesitates in middle throttle and top end was fine sometimes. Sometimes it will make 7k rpm and sometimes only 6k rpm. After reading several threads I replaced the TPS but it didn't change a thing.

    Fuel pressure is 25 psi and stays constant when goosing the throttle. I took it out yesterday and same thing again sometimes. It acts like it is starving for gas. I removed the fuel pump assembly and checked all components. It looked like some water was in the water collector but I couldn't really tell. I removed all the components and let them dry out. No filters were dirty and everything looked clean.

    Today I replaced all the fuel lines and inspected all three injectors. The injectors had a carbon film over them. I wiped them off and re-installed. It appears to be running fine now and when goosing the throttle there is no hesitation. Spark plugs are chocolate brown and not fouled.

    I have found when I take it out and it gives problems, when i get it home and put it on the garden hose, it will hesitate when goosing the throttle. The only thing I have not checked is compression but I don't think it is that. Compression would not cause it to run fine one minute and start acting up the next. Another thing it will do from time to time it will cut out a few times around 4k rpm. It all points to gas to me.

    I have added a bottle of ISO heet made for 2 cycle engines eliminate any water in the tank.

    So if it is not a physical fuel problem, ie water, it is pointing to flaky wire harness or EMM. The emm was replaced before I bought it because it has a 2005 date on it.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Sounds like you have covered a lot of the bases already.

    Correct spark plugs installed?

    Check that the EMM cooling water system is flowing and not kinked or restricted.

    Ohm check the CPS, and check for damage or metal debris on the bottom side of the CPS.

    After that, I would be having the EMM checked for problems.

  3. #3
    Spark plugs are the correct part number but are probably the original ones. I have ordered new ones. I was reading on another board and they mentioned about the EMM cooling. I wondered what those hoses were for.

    One thing I forgot to mention is that it is not throwing any codes and I am not getting any kind of warning on the display. So my luck nothing obvious. I am ready to pull the harness and ohm it out. Do you have any diagrams posted here on it?

    Also, what is the CPS? TPS? The TPS itself is 1k to 7k ish. The new one and old one match ohm wise.

  4. #4
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    check water flow thru emm

    pull the emm and the emm covers..inspect for sand/debris packed around the internals..an elevated temp condition may be faulting the emm a bit, but not enough to set off a high temp alarm. also check the 45v system, your stator may be grounding at high rpm.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WaveChaser View Post
    Spark plugs are the correct part number but are probably the original ones. I have ordered new ones. I was reading on another board and they mentioned about the EMM cooling. I wondered what those hoses were for.

    One thing I forgot to mention is that it is not throwing any codes and I am not getting any kind of warning on the display. So my luck nothing obvious. I am ready to pull the harness and ohm it out. Do you have any diagrams posted here on it?

    Also, what is the CPS?

    TPS? The TPS itself is 1k to 7k ish. The new one and old one match ohm wise.
    New spark plugs may be all it needs...

    TPS can not be properly checked without installing on a running engine. Vibration can affect a failing TPS, yet test just fine on the work bench.

    The Crank Position Sensor (CPS) is mounted in the top of the flywheel housing.

    The actual wiring harness rarely fails.

    What exactly happens when the engine will not achieve full RPM?
    Surging, roughness, varying max RPM?
    Does it jump up to max RPM, then fade away to a lower RPM?
    Any roughness or other issues when cruising at some lower RPM?

    Does your area have ethanol blended into the gasoline?
    Is there a possibility of water in the fuel tank?
    Ethanol + water can create a goop that sits in the bottom of the fuel tank.

    Also check the water cooling for the EMM. A hot EMM can have weird symptoms, yet not show any service codes.

    If you remove the covers on the EMM, any areas showing bubbling of the gel sealant is an indication of a failed component that needs repair.

  6. #6
    Well, once again no smoking gun. I tested the CPS and it is 500 ohms. I removed the EMM module and there was no blockage at all. I even brought it into the house and flushed water through it and no debris at all. I can see right through the nozzles. I do notice a orange rubber tube protruding out the back of the unit that had some dirt on it. Is that like a bypass? If it is I cannot get any air flow through it when I blow through the EMM nozzle and hold my finger over the bottom one.

    It is all pointing to the EMM. I have an electronics background and it looks like the second regulator on the back is black compared to the others. My guess is the voltage regulators are weak or failed shorted. Do you have any schematics of the regulators or part numbers? The gel is raised over the regulators compared to the rest. If I remove the gel, how would I replace it after I fixed the regulators?

    As far as what happens at full throttle, when it will only hit 6k rpm and I open the throttle more it "hupps" through the throttle bodies starving for gas. It doesn't surge. The only thing I have noticed is that it has cut out at 4k rpm a couple times for like a 1/2 second. Middle throttle is rough. Going from idle to full throttle it does the "bup bup bup bup" and then goes.

    Just using logic here. I don't know how long it sat before I bought it but I would say months. I ran it one day before putting it away for the winter. I put stabile in the gas and fogged the engine. Now from November to May, it is giving hesitation problems and starving for gas. My gut tells me sticky injectors.

    Yes we have ethanol in our gas where I live. I am going to siphon the tank dry this weekend and see what I find. I have also purchased new plugs and waiting for them to arrive.

    Can I apply 12v to the injectors to exercise them? Just click them a few times? I had a throttlebody car where it wouldn't idle and I troubleshot it and found if I dribbled gas in the throat it would run. I read in the manual and it said you could apply 12v to the injector momentarily and hear it click. After I did that, everything was fine. It just needed that "jar" of the full range to make it stop sticking.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    500 ohms is too high for the CPS sensor.

    The small rubber vent on the bottom of the EMM connects to an ambient air pressure sensor. Do not apply air pressure to it.

    The Ficht injectors are powered by 45 volts, not 12. They are voltage pulsed, never continuous power.

    Ficht injectors do not work like automotive injectors, which are simply valves. Ficht injectors are actually ram injection pumps integrated within the injector.

    There are replacement gel sealants available, if you decide to try fixing it yourself. These EMM are tricky to repair. Often there are several components that need replacement.

    There is a company that specializes in these repairs.

    Polaris Ficht Fuel Injected Engines

  8. #8
    The CPS is on top of the front of the engine held down by an allen screw ? It is also next to the water supply tube of the EMM? I unplugged it from the harness and ohmed it out. Should I remove it and see if it is damaged due to a magnet coming loose off the flywheel?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by WaveChaser View Post
    The CPS is on top of the front of the engine held down by an allen screw ?
    Yes
    It is also next to the water supply tube of the EMM?
    Yes
    I unplugged it from the harness and ohmed it out.

    Should I remove it and see if it is damaged due to a magnet coming loose off the flywheel?
    Yes, it needs to be checked further.

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    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    you can chase your tail for a long time

    or you can bite the bullet, send the emm out to be checked/repaired and get on with it. Knowing for sure that the EMM is in good condition s one of the key things you ned to diagnose a fi problem.

    I have a cps for an 800..I assume it's the same part number, pm me if you end up needing it...I bought it when a virage ohmed out to high, but the new cps did not fix the problem..a costly red herring. That one was the emm. It started and ran great at speed..but wouldn't idle at all.

    Emm reparied, ski ran like a wildcat and purred like a kitten.

    pulling the covers is a must...you have to check for sand..and it doesn't hurt to inspect the circuit boards, but I'd leave the repairs to dfi

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