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  1. #1
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    750 SLT carb removal

    Since I'm right into removing , rebuilding and installing these carbs. I came a cross a few things you should know while doing this.

    First off, remove 1 line at a time. even if your going to replace everything with a triple pump.. Most of the lines are the same length.. I'm using 3/16th line. The blue clear fuel line..

    I will be changing every line on the ski. including the vent lines on top of the tank.

    Next, is too use a SMALL OPEN END WRENCH! The reason is because the closed end wrench WILL get caught as you wrench the carb stud nuts off. some just spin easily, others not so much. I got my wrench stuck with the closed end the first nut!. what a pita as the owner is watching me. why? the nut for the reeds prevents the closed end wrench from coming out.. too close tolerence.


    The size is 12mm. should be about 4 inches long tops.

    Then be prepared for anything. Iv'e seen different size nuts on the carbs studs before.

    Remeber to unhook the clip for the oil injection or else you'll break the nylon clip that holds th oil pump rod in place..

    It's located between the pto and cen carbs on the outboard side half way down, just unclip it and your good.

    Next is the 6 nuts that hold them on. you'll be doing this blindly.. your just gonna half to stick you face down there and look or bring a mirror with ya..

    This is the BIGGIE--when taking the nuts off, unscrew the nuts so its off the stud. it wont fall out, the nut from the reed cages prevent them from coming off instantly. they hang up on every one.. its almost like the studs are too long.. dumb ass design.. 2 mm's more and they would fall right off.

    Here's what ya do.. undo them so they are loose, remove the oil rod and lift the carb rack gently on 1 side---fore or aft not side to side.

    As you lift the one side, you'll be able to grab the 2 pto nuts, then cen and so on..

    Don't just lift them out,,! you need to remove the return line and feed line first., then reach around the back of them and slide the clamps off the oil lines.

    Then your ready to lift them straight up. Be careful with the gaskets under it. if one sticks to the carbs, youll rip it.. check carefully before pulling them up!

    Hope this help my fellow GH'ers and Newbs! Good Luck.. I only dropped the wrench once!

    If your going to a triple pump, you'll need 2 small vacumm plugs for 2 of the inlets on the carb rack! get them at an auto parts store..
    Last edited by bowsniper; 06-22-2010 at 02:00 PM. Reason: added vacumm plugs for install of triple pump.


  2. #2
    seaobin's Avatar
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    Ive heard to use a little grease on the gaskets when you put them back on. Increases the seal and keeps them from sticking when you have to take them off again

  3. #3
    blegan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seaobin View Post
    Ive heard to use a little grease on the gaskets when you put them back on. Increases the seal and keeps them from sticking when you have to take them off again
    Does that apply to reed cage gaskets & the carb gaskets. What a good marine grease is fine huh?

  4. #4
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Well, got 1 of the skis finished today. looks great!. everything routed perfect not binding, after being on here with you all, you've all taught me so much, it was easy!.. Thanks...

    I primed the ski and a few seconds later, varoom!,, man with those rebuilt carbs and new triple pump put on, it runs like a champ, big power coming from that 750!. sounds great. Owner very happy!

    The other one is going under the knife tomm!..

    Remember to hook up the oil rod off the pump. easy to miss and of course the oil lines back on the black support plate.

  5. #5
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Tip using 3/16 line. take your needle nose pliers and shove them into the end of the blue fuel line and strech it open a little, they will go on easier.

    also connect the oil rod before you put the air cleaner base back on . then your oil lines , then the bolts for the base. then screen , top, then snorkel.


    point the outlets on the fuel pump down, it wont fit on the stainless mount on the end of the air cleaner base if the other way around.

    also dont cut the lines to fit on to the pump until you get the pump on and then run the long hoses to the pump smoothly and not binding anywhere, then cut them to fit the pump. make the pulse line 8-10 inches. thats plenty long enough.

    make sure the restrictor is back into the return line with a tiewrap.

    check to see if you turned the gas back on at the selector too!,, clean and refill the water seperator and use fresh gas oil mixture at 40/1. thats 3.2 ozs per gallon gas.

    I changed the fuel in- line filters also and put BPR8ES plugs gapped at .028"

    you can even index the plugs if you want also.. I didnt on this ski..

    total cost 1 ski? 200.00 parts. 150.00 labor.

    I'll take some pics of the procedure tomm . I forgot the camera!

    BTW, the oil pump L-rod coming off the oil pump was bent down there and i couldnt figure out why the oil rod wouldnt move.. i got it straight again and it worked fine.. just a trouble shooting idea! it could happen to you, it did me..

    bring a mirror with ya. youll need it!

  6. #6
    blegan's Avatar
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    bring a mirror with ya. youll need it!
    __________________
    Isnt that the truth, Im getting pretty good at working half upside down, and work bye feel only Im alsoo getting more patience with things such as tightening down carbs that you can only get 1/4 a turn from. I only threw something once.
    Good luck Brian

  7. #7
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    The big deal for me yesterday was finding out that the arm on the oil pump was bent just a tad.. I went thru everything real close and couldn't find anything wrong..

    then took the mirror and watched the pump arm on the pump, not the long rod, whether it was touching anything it shouldnt be. sure enough, it was bent it over just a tad and that was the fix.. so check everything and even the weird stuff to diagnois whats wrong, it may not be the parts your installing that are broken or bent or missing..

    remember the orientation of the pump rod and how the clips secure it. if you dont look at it closely, youll end up trying it a few different ways. not fun when ya cant see anything or just working by feel alone.

  8. #8
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    Tip using 3/16 line. take your needle nose pliers and shove them into the end of the blue fuel line and strech it open a little, they will go on easier.

    BTW, the oil pump L-rod coming off the oil pump was bent down there and i couldnt figure out why the oil rod wouldnt move.. i got it straight again and it worked fine.. just a trouble shooting idea! it could happen to you, it did me..
    Another method is to boil a pan of water and have it near by. Dip the end of the tubing in the water to make it more plyable, then it will stretch right over the fuel nipple no problem.

    So these skis were '95's? Hmmm, my '94 doesn't have the linkage. The pumps with the linkage are variable oiling rate, that's why the linkage rod is needed. I believe the older skis were 40:1 at all times, they just supplied less oil at lower RPM. The variable rate pumps, with linkage to carbs will supply about 100:1 (maybe even more dilute) at low RPM and ramp all the way up to 40:1 at WOT. The pump has a fail safe mode so if the linkage comes off it automatically pumps at 40:1 regardless of RPM.

    Be careful bending that linkage rod. The manual states the rod should be 6 7/8" end to end, and it definitely has one direction it goes. Bending the rod can change oil delivery rate if not done properly.

    KJ

  9. #9
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Be careful bending that linkage rod. The manual states the rod should be 6 7/8" end to end, and it definitely has one direction it goes. Bending the rod can change oil delivery rate if not done properly.

    KJ[/QUOTE]

    if you mean i bent the rod to fix it in my post.. i mean the L bracket off the pump itself was bent a little. so it bumped up against the housing and wouldnt let it slide up and down easily.

  10. #10
    la90043's Avatar
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    Nice write up. The new position of the fuel pump is low in the hull just above the pulse fitting of the crankcase. That keeps the fuel flow flowing down to the fuel pump from the fuel tank. Gravity.

    Then the fuel pump, pumps the fuel up to the carbs by the pulses of the crankcase.

    point the outlets on the fuel pump down, it wont fit on the stainless mount on the end of the air cleaner base if the other way around.


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