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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Little Elm, TX

    Exclamation 1999 Genesis FICHT hard start and other issues

    Hello everyone!

    I want to take a moment to say Thank you to everyone who has posted technical help on the subjects that have helped me and my ski. What a great community and I am proud to join or say re-join.

    Ski: 1999 Polaris Genesis FICHT

    1. Hard Start- starts with carb fluid, then fires right up and continues to run. wont start on its own unless i help it with fluid. Turns over for as long as you hold the button until the battery drains.
    2. Once started with carb fluid on the water, runs ok-6150RPM and 51.9 speedo MPH will run at part and full throttle for 7-10 minutes, the it will fall on its face. after this Still a hard start. i use starter fluid to get back to ramp.

    I have done the regulator mod as mine fell off last time.
    I have installed a fuel pressure gauge to verify pressure- I will get a smaller more permanent one after I fix the ski. If I clamp return line i see 30 Psi, 22psi cranking and running.

    I have temporarily fixed a bad connection in the electrical box. The wire on the hot side of the fuse(large fuse) was making a bad connection. i have ordered a new terminal board because it was not expensive and when I replace the terminal board I will clean and re-collapse and pack with electrical grease the terminals to ensure good connection.
    I found this problem from pulling trouble codes(17 ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE BELOW EXPECTED RANGE) started tracing wires and I think problem is solved. Ill know once board is installed.

    51 and 52 I caused by disconnecting the injectors one at a time to see which cyl was firing.

    I am unable to successfully clear codes, I will attempt tonight.

    checked spark, good hot spark on each jug.

    checked the plugs, they were a tad wet, ill double check that they are the exact plugs tonight.

    checked compression, MAG 150psi, Center 145 Psi, PTO 125 Psi. ( engine was rebuilt not too long ago and still had problems)

    I checked the Throttle position sensor by removing and doing a continuity test between pins 1 and 2, I get smooth transition on numbers then I do position 2 and 3 and i get smooth transition of numbers in the opposite way. I tried to measure resistance, but resistance is too low for my cheapy DMM.

    Fuel is 1 year old, added stabilizer 1 year ago and fueled it wit 93 octane. I have since added 1 gal of 93 octane and injector cleaner. I pulled a gal of this fuel and put it in my motorcycle and it had no problems wit it.( MC tank was dry.

    Oil pump working well. I had it on the trailer in the water and revving it up i can see the smoke from the exhaust.

    I have checked the water cooling lines to the EMM by blowing thru the EMM with compressed air and blowing air thru the hose that leads to the MAG, good clean sound of air flow.

    I have fixed the reverse motor(original had corroded) I used a 540 size hobby motor bc i had one laying around.

    this ski left me about 500 ft from the ramp, I don't know how to swim in a vessel- any tips would help. since then I immediatly went to wally world and purchased an emergency collapsing ore. I will row my self back, but im wondering how to swim one in.

    some history: before i fixed the terminal board and the fuel regulator, That is 2 weeks ago...

    started right up on the 3 or less rotation of the crank. while pressing the start button i rapidly gave it jerks on the throttle, ran on 2 cyl for about 5 minutes on the water, then they all woke up for 30 seconds, then back to two cylinders for 4 minutes, then all 3 for 30 seconds, then two, then one, then literally up a creek with out a paddle. (I think the terminal board intermittent connection caused this issue)

    1 week ago, before terminal board fix and fuel pressure fix. i ran the ski in the water on the trailer. fired up by fluttering the throttle rapidly, ran and idled on the trailer for 3-4 minutes with out skipping a beat. i got brave and jumped in the water( lasted for 10 minutes then i had to go home because of sun set) put it back on the trailer and called it a day.

    i have spent more time loading and unloading the ski than i have been on the throttle.

    so any tips or suggestions are most welcome.

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Little Elm, TX

    More Info

    I have disconnected the throttle position sensor to do the start and idle test. I still get nothing. I have not attempted carb cleaner with the sensor disconnected.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Welcome back

    My guess is that you have weak voltage at the injectors.

    The fact that the engine will keep running once you start it with starter fluid is the main clue. It will probably also start and keep running if you prime it with just a spritz of gasoline.

    That it dies again after about ten minutes also points to the EMM (stator possible, EMM more likely).

    The Alternator code 17 has nothing to do with battery voltage or battery charging. For the Ficht system, alternator output means the 45 volt system that powers the injectors.

    Find a place to measure the DC voltage on the White/Red wires (they are all connected together, so any White/Red wire will do), without unplugging any of the injectors. When cranking (lanyard in place), the voltage should jump up to over 20 volts.

    As soon as the engine starts, the voltage should jump higher to over 40 volts.

    I suspect you will find the White/Red wires to have weak voltage while cranking.

    Remove the CPS from the top of the flywheel housing, and check for CPS damage or metal debris inside. CPS ohms should be under 200 ohms.

    If CPS and flywheel look good, then the EMM is the main suspect.

    You can test the stator ohms and AC volts, just for fun, but I expect it will test out just fine.

    Polaris Ficht Fuel Injected Engines
    Note: The 1999 Genesis FFI Ficht wiring harness is known to have reliability issues, with corrosion and connector issues.

    In addition to all the usual Ficht troubleshooting, be aware that you may have failures anywhere in the wire harness. Often these appear as grounding problems, or intermittent issues that come and go.

    These can be tricky to troubleshoot.
    Last edited by K447; 06-24-2010 at 11:59 AM.

  4. #4
    GGG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Jersey Shore
    I had the same problem last week. I even did an ohm and voltage test on the stator and it tested ok. But when I took the flywheel off it was the stator and the flywheel that were no good. I took it apart and found the magnets were coming off the flywheel and ground a groove in the stator. So I'd definitely check that out before you go and get another computer

  5. #5
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Elephant Butte New Mexico

    no start or no idle

    has always been an emm issue IF cranking voltages were in the ballpark. I had one where the capacitor was bad..and wouldn't start holding a charge until the voltage rose high enough. figured that one out by putting 24vdc volts on the 45 volt line and cranking the engine started every time

    There is a test for the capacitor in the service manual. Having a quality digital voltmeter is a must for these skis..a small collection of ficth connectors helps to. Probling the connectors can damage then if you are heavy to make those connectons with 22awg solid wire

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Little Elm, TX
    I pulled the Crank positon sensor and found some what I would guess water and oil. It was gold color, may be rust, im not sure. Ill take pics later and submit. It stuck to the bottom of the crank position sensor. I have a cheapy Digital Ohm meter that will not read the components, so this weekend I will borrow one and report. I did find that when cranking I was getting 8-10VDC on the wht/red wire, and with a sprits of fuel, i would see 18-20vdc. Ill check the capacitor, and the stator. I got this ski and was told that the engine and EMM were rebuilt. I guess that is why I see such high numbers on the compression test. I do see the volt meter on the ski rise upwards 13 vdc when it ran. Thank you for the help.

    Ill report back soon.

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