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  1. #1
    97 Kawasaki STX 1100
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    95 sl 750 pto seal replacement

    Ok heres my delima. I just melted my pto piston. The motor was just completely over halled recently I was told. Pulled the heads on all 3 cylinders for inspection and mag and center cylinders look fine. Gaskets on engine thru out look new and everything looks new. But of course I just melted a piston. After further inspection I just noticed my rear seal PTO side is not installed correctly. Its in crooked. Half the seal is actually sticking out the housing and the other half is in. The seal itself still looks good but its obvious it wasnt installed properly. ts sitting cock eyed. My question is can I just try tapping the seal in carefully and try centering it or Is there a way to just replace that seal wihout removing the engine. I understand most you guys will recomend replacing all seals and pulling the motor, but lets asume all the other seals are new and all I need to do is replace that seal. Can it be done? And How? I promise I will do a leak down test once Im done.... Im hoping we can jsut tap the seal in and center it and do a leak test... Is this how the seal is actually installed any way? By tapping it in gently and centering it properly? Thanks in advance!


  2. #2
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    As you can see, there's 2 seals on the PTO side.



    So if you have a bad outer seal, most likely the inner seal is shot too. Since pressure bypassed the innner and "popped out" the outer seal.

    Sorry, you will need to remove the engine.

    BUT....

    You do not need to open up the top end. You can remove the stator and flywheel, and the bottom half of the case. That will allow you to replace just the seals, and you will only need a tube of 1211 silicone to do it. Plus the engine alignment that follows.

  3. #3
    97 Kawasaki STX 1100
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    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    As you can see, there's 2 seals on the PTO side.



    So if you have a bad outer seal, most likely the inner seal is shot too. Since pressure bypassed the innner and "popped out" the outer seal.

    Sorry, you will need to remove the engine.

    BUT....

    You do not need to open up the top end. You can remove the stator and flywheel, and the bottom half of the case. That will allow you to replace just the seals, and you will only need a tube of 1211 silicone to do it. Plus the engine alignment that follows.
    The motor was just rebuilt recently and the people that did it, didnt install the rear seal properly. It was hanging half way out cock eyed. I tried tapping on it and the silicone they used when sealing it was fighting with me. I finally freed up the silicon and was able to pop the seal back in there straight. I dont know if its already done its damage to the seal sitting in there cock eyed but from what I see it looks like I could remove the drive shaft and pull that rear seal out without spilitting the case. In general yes I should replace both but in this case if they were both replaced already and just the outer one wasnt installed properly I would think I could get away with just putting a new one in. My understanding is the rear seal doesnt have a metal ridge around it like the inner one does...

  4. #4
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Stop typing and start wrenching! you can have it out tonight! 3 hours tops. then you will see exactly what happened. its just pure speculation at the moment . xlint knows his stuff. listen to him!

  5. #5
    97 Kawasaki STX 1100
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    The rear seal is replaceable without pulling the engine...... Only if you are replacing only the outer seal! Ive got the mag and center cyclinders all back together and ordered gaskets from SBT today. Should have it running next week!!!

  6. #6
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    The inner one may have moved allowing pressure to blow out the outer seal/ good luck. hope it works. i would take the engine out.. just to be sure.. or else it could blow up very quickly sucking air or blowing the seal out again.

  7. #7
    97 Kawasaki STX 1100
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    The inner one may have moved allowing pressure to blow out the outer seal/ good luck. hope it works. i would take the engine out.. just to be sure.. or else it could blow up very quickly sucking air or blowing the seal out again.
    Well the easy fix to that would be to remove the rear seal by pulling the drive shaft and using a pick and then inspecting that inner seal without pulling the hole engine. But I still think even better would be just to do a leak test on the seal once I get it back together and the good old soapy water test. That seams like alot of work pulling the hole thing and replacing the 2 seals... That inner seal cant move its sitting in the case and has a metal ring around it....

  8. #8
    750sl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mogyver69 View Post
    Well the easy fix to that would be to remove the rear seal by pulling the drive shaft and using a pick and then inspecting that inner seal without pulling the hole engine. But I still think even better would be just to do a leak test on the seal once I get it back together and the good old soapy water test. That seams like alot of work pulling the hole thing and replacing the 2 seals... That inner seal cant move its sitting in the case and has a metal ring around it....
    I know you want to save yourself time and trouble but its best to listen to these guys. Like bowsniper said the problem might just resurface again. Just my two cents.

  9. #9
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    If the inner seal is properly seated in it's groove... and the outer seal gets replaced and properly seated. AND it hold 5-6 psi pressure with no leaks... wouldn't it be fixed?

    If your replacing both... you have to split the case agreed.


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