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  1. #1

    Polaris Octane 2004 777cc Factory B Pipe adjustment

    Hi all
    I'm new in here, and I tried searching after a answer.

    I just bought a 2004 Octane, which really runs great. Such a pull in low and mid range.

    I think that the stock factory b pipe is getting too hot.

    The chamber marked on the attached picture is getting very hot. If water hits the chamber, then it boils. Is it suppose to do so? Is it possible to adjust water cooling on the factory pipe?
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  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Does it have a Jetworks flow control valve in the water line to the exhaust pipe injection fitting?

    Is the jetworks valve stuck closed?

    The exhaust pipe should not be as hot as you describe.

  3. #3
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    No it shouldn't be that hot.Don't run it until you correct it. Nothing on the engine or exhaust should be so hot that you can't keep you hand on it for 3 to 5 seconds.Pull and check the fitting on the top of the exhaust pipe were you blue hose attaches. If it's like most polaris pipes there is a screen in there or a small pin hole that can get plugged. That type of heat can harn the glass hull,and/or melt rubber exhaust hoses and cause them to collapes.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome

    Does it have a Jetworks flow control valve in the water line to the exhaust pipe injection fitting?

    Is the jetworks valve stuck closed?

    The exhaust pipe should not be as hot as you describe.
    No it doesn't have any flow control or such in line from the engine to the manifold/pipe. Was it meant to have such?

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Keddano View Post
    No it shouldn't be that hot.Don't run it until you correct it. Nothing on the engine or exhaust should be so hot that you can't keep you hand on it for 3 to 5 seconds.Pull and check the fitting on the top of the exhaust pipe were you blue hose attaches. If it's like most polaris pipes there is a screen in there or a small pin hole that can get plugged. That type of heat can harn the glass hull,and/or melt rubber exhaust hoses and cause them to collapes.
    I think the coolant lines are aftermarket, and I have already pulled all hoses apart, to check for salt and so on.
    I won't run it further.

    I got some screws on the horn on the factory pipe, is this coolant adjustment screws?

  6. #6
    casey67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mclost View Post
    I got some screws on the horn on the factory pipe, is this coolant adjustment screws?
    From what I have read, I say yes,the coolant is adjustable. Wait till monday, Randy from Watcon will probably have very...very good advice for you.

  7. #7
    Connecticut CrazyA's Avatar
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    Does that "B" headpipe of yours have 3 of those adjustments, or just one? Either way, that pipe definately is water adujustable.

    From Factory Pipes website:

    Tuning Your Exhaust System

    Note - The following information pertains to Factory Pipe systems that use our "A" or "B" headpipe with three (3) water injection screws. Some systems such as the SeaDoo 580/650/720 and Kawasaki 750SS/XI have only one injection screw. On pipes equipped with ECWI use only the bottom injection screw.

    Most Factory Pipe systems have our exclusive "tunable" headpipe which allows you to custom tune the pipe to your riding style. The following information gives a general overview of how this system works and how each adjustment will affect the performance of your watercraft.

    Double check all hoses, bolts and clamps from your installation. For the first "on-water" test of your new Factory Pipe we recommend closing the top and middle adjustment screws and opening the bottom screw 3/4 turn out from closed. This setting will be more water than is required but will provide a good starting point to test the pipe.

    Ride the watercraft for several minutes while varying the throttle position. Put the boat through a long series of slalom turns keeping the engine loaded. Hit the kill switch or pull the lanyard and let the boat come to a stop. Open the engine cover as quick as possible and check the pipe temperature by splashing water on the chamber body directly after the headpipe coupler. The water should lightly sizzle for the first few inches on the chamber body. If the water does not sizzle, close the bottom adjustment screw 1/8 turn and retest. If the water sizzles rapidly, open the bottom screw 1/4 turn and retest.

    This set up will provide the best top end performance for your watercraft. With the pipe adjusted as stated above, open the top screw 1/4 turn. This will cool the exhaust in the headpipe and provide better bottom end performance at the expense of some top-end. This would be an ideal setting for running slalom or a tight buoy course. If you want a change that is somewhere in the middle of the two settings, close the top screw and open the middle screw 1/4 turn or add another 1/8 turn to the bottom screw. Some engines may react differently from the above. For example, while testing the 650 Super Jet we found that we gained top end performance by running the top screw open and the others closed. You may use any combination of the three screws to achieve the desired performance. However, AT LEAST ONE SCREW MUST REMAIN OPEN AT ALL TIMES TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE PIPE.



    I think this is for the 1 adjustment screw set-ups:




    Ride the watercraft for several minutes above 5800 RPM while varying the throttle position. (The ECWI system injects water from 2500 to 5600 RPM which will cool the pipe and give a false reading) Open the engine cover as quick as possible after the ride and check the pipe temperature by splashing water on the chamber body directly after the headpipe coupler. The water should lightly sizzle for the first few inches on the chamber body.

    If the water does not sizzle, close the adjustment screw 1/8 turn and retest. If the water sizzles rapidly, open the screw 1/4 turn and retest.
    This set up will provide the best top end performance of your watercraft. With the pipe adjusted as stated above. Opening the adjustment screw another 1/4 turn will cool the exhaust in the chamber and provide better bottom end performance at the expense of some top-end. This would be an ideal setting for running slalom or a tight buoy course. Never close the screw completely as to prevent damage to the pipe.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyA View Post
    Does that "B" headpipe of yours have 3 of those adjustments, or just one? Either way, that pipe definately is water adujustable.

    From Factory Pipes website:

    Tuning Your Exhaust System

    Note - The following information pertains to Factory Pipe systems that use our "A" or "B" headpipe with three (3) water injection screws. Some systems such as the SeaDoo 580/650/720 and Kawasaki 750SS/XI have only one injection screw. On pipes equipped with ECWI use only the bottom injection screw.

    Most Factory Pipe systems have our exclusive "tunable" headpipe which allows you to custom tune the pipe to your riding style. The following information gives a general overview of how this system works and how each adjustment will affect the performance of your watercraft.

    Double check all hoses, bolts and clamps from your installation. For the first "on-water" test of your new Factory Pipe we recommend closing the top and middle adjustment screws and opening the bottom screw 3/4 turn out from closed. This setting will be more water than is required but will provide a good starting point to test the pipe.

    Ride the watercraft for several minutes while varying the throttle position. Put the boat through a long series of slalom turns keeping the engine loaded. Hit the kill switch or pull the lanyard and let the boat come to a stop. Open the engine cover as quick as possible and check the pipe temperature by splashing water on the chamber body directly after the headpipe coupler. The water should lightly sizzle for the first few inches on the chamber body. If the water does not sizzle, close the bottom adjustment screw 1/8 turn and retest. If the water sizzles rapidly, open the bottom screw 1/4 turn and retest.

    This set up will provide the best top end performance for your watercraft. With the pipe adjusted as stated above, open the top screw 1/4 turn. This will cool the exhaust in the headpipe and provide better bottom end performance at the expense of some top-end. This would be an ideal setting for running slalom or a tight buoy course. If you want a change that is somewhere in the middle of the two settings, close the top screw and open the middle screw 1/4 turn or add another 1/8 turn to the bottom screw. Some engines may react differently from the above. For example, while testing the 650 Super Jet we found that we gained top end performance by running the top screw open and the others closed. You may use any combination of the three screws to achieve the desired performance. However, AT LEAST ONE SCREW MUST REMAIN OPEN AT ALL TIMES TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE PIPE.



    I think this is for the 1 adjustment screw set-ups:




    Ride the watercraft for several minutes above 5800 RPM while varying the throttle position. (The ECWI system injects water from 2500 to 5600 RPM which will cool the pipe and give a false reading) Open the engine cover as quick as possible after the ride and check the pipe temperature by splashing water on the chamber body directly after the headpipe coupler. The water should lightly sizzle for the first few inches on the chamber body.

    If the water does not sizzle, close the adjustment screw 1/8 turn and retest. If the water sizzles rapidly, open the screw 1/4 turn and retest.
    This set up will provide the best top end performance of your watercraft. With the pipe adjusted as stated above. Opening the adjustment screw another 1/4 turn will cool the exhaust in the chamber and provide better bottom end performance at the expense of some top-end. This would be an ideal setting for running slalom or a tight buoy course. Never close the screw completely as to prevent damage to the pipe.
    I actually think it's the same pipe as the superjet. Will try to adjust the screw next week.
    Thanks for the small guide.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    From what I have read, I say yes,the coolant is adjustable. Wait till monday, Randy from Watcon will probably have very...very good advice for you.
    That would be great, there must be some kind of stock adjustments for the pipe.

    I can't find any specifications in the owners/service manual either.

  10. #10
    Watcon's Avatar
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    Stock specs.
    Top closed
    Middle closed
    Bottom 1 turn open

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