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  1. #1
    Awamori's Avatar
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    Sprag clutch bad...nope...worse!

    Well I thought my sprag clutch had gone but after tear down I was way wrong. It was a broken supercharger shaft. No big deal right? You would think but the reason I'm posting this is because it's looking like a $4K lesson I just learned. If your ski stops giving you the RPM's you need it could be the shaft and not the clutch, and if you ride it back after your RPM's drop here is what you could end up with if the shaft breaks where mine did.

    This was an after market R&D shaft...I'm thinking next time of going with the RIVA version for obvious reasons. Still waiting to hear from Glen from R&D on why this shaft may have failed after only about 20hrs.

    So far $1000 to pull motor and remove all the metal thats now in there.
    Riva shaft $349
    New Supercharger $2489.96 (Because you can't just buy the housing)

    When it's going your way...it's going your way.
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  2. #2
    wakeboardmuppet's Avatar
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    If only it was the clutch

    Feel for ya fella

    My s/c shaft snapped, but only destroyed the $560 C3 wheel. I rode back but the s/c was just a bit scratched

  3. #3
    ChargedTaco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Awamori View Post
    Well I thought my sprag clutch had gone but after tear down I was way wrong. It was a broken supercharger shaft. No big deal right? You would think but the reason I'm posting this is because it's looking like a $4K lesson I just learned. If your ski stops giving you the RPM's you need it could be the shaft and not the clutch, and if you ride it back after your RPM's drop here is what you could end up with if the shaft breaks where mine did.

    This was an after market R&D shaft...I'm thinking next time of going with the RIVA version for obvious reasons. Still waiting to hear from Glen from R&D on why this shaft may have failed after only about 20hrs.

    So far $1000 to pull motor and remove all the metal thats now in there.
    Riva shaft $349
    New Supercharger $2489.96 (Because you can't just buy the housing)

    When it's going your way...it's going your way.
    Let me guess it snapped at the root of the supercharger gear? If that was the case, you may not have gotten as much metal shavings in the engine as you think.

    Did you snap the OEM Shaft before you installed the R&D shaft?

    Wakeboard - Did you snap the OEM shaft?

  4. #4
    wakeboardmuppet's Avatar
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    I snapped my original shaft with a torque wrench

    Replacements were not available at the time so I got one made from a better quality metal

    It lasted 15 hours or so and then snapped where the anti clockwise threads meet the shaft (6mm-8mm) if I remember rightly

    I got another one made from the hardest steel available

    That one seems okay, so far, but now the clutch has gone.....

  5. #5
    Awamori's Avatar
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    I'm like wbm I snapped mine being a neanderthal on the stock one with the torque value.

    At the time replacements were not being offered either. R&D hooked me up for $350 with a pre-production shaft.

    Mine broke right after the gear....I'm still trying to figure out how to get the wheel off. Looks like I may have to have something welded to the broken side so I can turn the nut off. ChargedTaco why do you think there may not be that much metal in the motor? If it's not in there then where is it?

  6. #6
    wakeboardmuppet's Avatar
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    I agree. There is little chance of metal getting in the engine. I would just pull the pump off the front and check the clutch whilst you're at it, and drain all the oil out.

    That should be enough. The supercharger is quite remote from the engine and oil

    You should be able to source someone to re weld that aluminium s/c housing and machine it back to shape

    Can you not acquire an HKS contact?

    Just thinking aloud and looking at you location

  7. #7
    Awamori's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wakeboardmuppet View Post
    I agree. There is little chance of metal getting in the engine. I would just pull the pump off the front and check the clutch whilst you're at it, and drain all the oil out.

    That should be enough. The supercharger is quite remote from the engine and oil

    You should be able to source someone to re weld that aluminium s/c housing and machine it back to shape

    Can you not acquire an HKS contact?

    Just thinking aloud and looking at you location
    Well the gears are exposed with the charger off and they only turn one way so I assume the sprag is good. No free play at all when I tried to turn them by hand.

    So where that gear was grinding the metal you feel that metal has little chance of flowing straight down and working it's way all through the oil system? Or are you feeling that the filter will pick most of it up? I'm certain all those shavings have entered the oil system because that gear was just slamming around in there. I will post a picture of it so you can see the abuse.

    I just felt like that was cheaper than a new motor vs. shavings getting in my bearings and working stuff over. Thats a lot of shavings to wear all the way through the casing no?

    I'm going to look into that HKS contact long and hard especially with my Japanese contacts here. Including Yamaha well knowns.
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  8. #8
    i will get all the rest i need when im dead corkycat's Avatar
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    just my 2p but that looks like a floor in the metal itself so in my opinion if that ski were mine i would be getting that ultrasounded to check and follow it up with a letter to the firm you got the upratted shaft from asking them to foot the bill!! as it is the floor in the metal that has done all the damage, send the whole shaft to somebody that can inspect it, if it comes back floored you have a case

    on the flip side if i was in your position right now i would belzona the damaged areas in the supercharger,this would bring it back to new without the need to weld it up. order an r&d shaft, change the clutch while i had it all apart or at least check it, re install and all should be ok..
    the damage to that charger looks minimal, belzona 1111 will sort that right out guaranteed

  9. #9
    Awamori's Avatar
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    Is Belzona like JB weld or what? I'm a little hesitant about going with the R & D shaft again after this. This was an R & D shaft. To me the Riva shaft is looking like a better alternative. My biggest concern is the internals of the motor from the shavings.

  10. #10
    i will get all the rest i need when im dead corkycat's Avatar
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    belzona is in my opinion the best 2 part chemical metal available, it is used by the mod in nuclear submarines it is used on oil rigs worldwide and such like and is not available to the public to buy. ive used it on various high stress parts like cracked engine blocks ect this stuff is amazing i even used it on my pump liner in my sho as my prop walked up the shaft due to me not torquing up correctly, the prop gouged into the liner leaving gouges as deep as 4mm, the liner is now as good as new and has been for some time

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