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  1. #1

    Just took my Carbs off, and I have some questions. Pics included!

    I just spent all morning taking the carbs off my 95 SLX 780 to do a block off mod and check the carbs and reeds. The reeds are perfect with not one nick. However when I took off the diaphragm covers and removed the diaphragm I found a little rust on the mag carb (see pictures) and it was dry. The other two were wet with mix and looked good. here are my questions.

    1. Do I really need to rebuild of can I just do a good cleaning as long as everything looks ok.

    2. What should the low and high settings be set at when I run premix? (can't remember and the search sucks now)

    3. Should I plug the oil inlets on the carbs where the oil when in?
    4 On the fuel rail, do I need to modify it at all?

    5. I took apart the fuel pump to inspect it and it is perfect. Do I need to replace gaskets now that I took it apart?

    5. Do I need all new reed cage and carb gaskets now what I took it apart? (I am used to cars)

    I think that is it for now. If you need more pictures let me know. I also will be posting some video soon.

    Oh, and FYI, this ski is running, but I just wanted to convert it to premix.
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  2. #2
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    1. Do I really need to rebuild of can I just do a good cleaning as long as everything looks ok

    . well the diaphrams are kinda funny. they probably look fine, but age can make them weak. they may have tiny pinholes in them that you cant see. so yeah i would change them.

    2. What should the low and high settings be set at when I run premix? (can't remember and the search sucks now)

    no change going to pre-mix. your ok there unless someone else disputs that idea.

    3. Should I plug the oil inlets on the carbs where the oil when in?

    if you go to premix, yes. otherwise never.

    4 On the fuel rail, do I need to modify it at all?

    nope nothing, its fine.

    5. I took apart the fuel pump to inspect it and it is perfect. Do I need to replace gaskets now that I took it apart?

    it would be wise to since its the heart of your circultory system. I would..

    5. Do I need all new reed cage and carb gaskets now what I took it apart? (I am used to cars).

    Yes. New gaskets.

    I think that is it for now. If you need more pictures let me know. I also will be posting some video soon.

    Oh, and FYI, this ski is running, but I just wanted to convert it to premix.[/QUOTE]

    They sell block off kits and a plug for the oil pump void. you should install both the plug and the block off kit. and plug the oil lines inlets and the main oil inlet from the oil tank too.its on the oil pump next to the little lines that connect there too.

    Rust in the carb? thats weird.. they are aluminum.. Sounds like that one wasnt running good to me. check the screens too. you should put new screens in too. but in a pinch, you could clean them really well and reuse if not vroken in the screen anywhere.

  3. #3

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    always replace the gaskets. It's a pain to have to wait, but better then taking a chance and then having to redo it all cause of a bad gasket.

    Check your needles, if there is rust in there the carb might not be getting any fuel through it at all. Check your pop off pressure too on each carb.

    I would rebuild the fuel pump with new diaphrams & gaskets. You have it out and apart and it's less then $20 shipped. Easier then having to do it later. Also blow some carb cleaner through each port to make sure they are clear.

    And since your in there and working on things, might as well replace the fuel filter and the lines if they haven't been done in a while. Just extra insurance.

  4. #4
    Thanks alot guys for the input. I took the carbs completely apart today and cleaned them out. The only questionable part would be the diaphragms. The look a little streched out. All the passages are clear and fluid and sir passes perfectly.

    Where can I find a carb rebuild kit? I must be stupid or something. I cannot find one on the internet anywhere. Yes that sucks about the gaskets. I was so very careful not to tear them when i took them off. I thought you could just put a little grease back on them to help with the seal and you were done.

    One last question. Can someone tell me the exact part to buy that checks the pop off pressure?

  5. #5

  6. #6
    Very nice. Thanks for the link

  7. #7
    Here are some videos of me workng on it, and what I found.

    This is my you tube channel with all kinds of ski and boat vids

    http://www.youtube.com/user/FriscoJarretts




  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Preferred method of by-passing oil level sender when converting to pre-mix oil+gas

    Quote Originally Posted by friscoboater View Post
    Here are some videos of me working on it, and what I found...
    While shorting the Blue and Black oil sender wires together does seem to work, the preferred method of bypassing the oil level sender is to install a 33 ohm resistor inside the electrical box. Not only do you avoid any need to damage or remove the oil sender connector, but 33 ohms is the correct resistance for a 'full' oil tank signal.

    Inside the electrical box, unplug and tape off the Blue wire from the oil sender.

    Crimp insulated female spade connectors to both ends of a 33 ohm resistor (available at Radio Shack). Sleeve insulation over the resistor so it doesn't short to anything.

    Plug one end of the resistor to any Black terminal, and the other end to the Blue terminal.

    This provides the electrically correct 33 ohm signal to the MFD display, and is fully reversible should someone decide to re-install the oil injection system.

  9. #9
    Good point. I guess you would call mine the redneck fix huh?

  10. #10

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    Build your own pop off tester, it's cheaper.

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