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  1. #1
    SCSFAB's Avatar
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    Some Iideas on pump failures.....

    I, like many others, read this thread and felt the pump failure/ engine failure was way over blown. However after seeing the third instance of this happening in the shop I work at I'm now convinced it's a major problem. All three suffered pump bearing failures and then thrust washer/main bearing failures. In each instance the resulting fix was a new block and crankshaft We are talking several thousand dollar repairs bills here.
    Since this is an open forum, I'm putting out some ideas for every one to digest.
    I like the double bearing /threaded shaft fix, and have this on my own personal ski. What would happen if instead of threading the shaft you were to just put a proper size washer on it and put a small tack weld on it to create an interference fit so the washer stayed affixed? I know it sounds like a hillbilly repair, but it would be very cheap and serve the same function as a nut. Drawback is a little die grinder work to remove the weld if you need to disassemble the pump.
    Idea #2.......tapered roller bearings. A ball or roller bearing is not designed for a side [ or thrust] load. Tapered roller bearings take their load on the face of the roller and can with stand much higher side loads. I don't know if if any thing is a drop in replacement but it should be investigated. Maybe even machine the pump housing for them. Once again, an idea to ponder.
    Idea #3...... Different thrust bearing for the engine. Based on the Ninja motorcycle engine, an application with almost no thrust load, the puny thrust washers soon fail when the drive shaft loads the coupler. In the cases I've seen you can actually see where the drive shaft coupler has ran in direct contact with the engine coupler, leaving a shiny mark on them. Can the block be machined for an extra thrust washer? How about a roller bearing thrust washer?
    Remember guys ,I didn't say these were the solutions, only ideas. This issue has to be causing Kawasaki a lot of money in warranty bills, and will cost consumers a lot of money as these skis age and they are stuck with large repair bills. Feedback?


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    IMO you have done the best mod out to your own ski already.

  3. #3
    My pump has been making a vibration/rattling noise for a while. Dealer said to wait until it broke or else they couldn't fix it under warranty. Yesterday the sound got really bad - now I even hear it in the water. Still only at certain RPM but I'm still worried. I think I'm going to take it to a different dealer on Tuesday. Long story short this is a real issue. I have 190hrs on the '07 so I guess I'm not surprised it finally happened.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by NaptownKawi View Post
    I have 190hrs on the '07 so I guess I'm not surprised it finally happened.
    190hrs thats nice!!

    My 2007 pump made it 80hrs....

  5. #5
    JET250's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCSFAB View Post
    I, like many others, read this thread and felt the pump failure/ engine failure was way over blown. However after seeing the third instance of this happening in the shop I work at I'm now convinced it's a major problem. All three suffered pump bearing failures and then thrust washer/main bearing failures. In each instance the resulting fix was a new block and crankshaft We are talking several thousand dollar repairs bills here.
    Since this is an open forum, I'm putting out some ideas for every one to digest.
    I like the double bearing /threaded shaft fix, and have this on my own personal ski. What would happen if instead of threading the shaft you were to just put a proper size washer on it and put a small tack weld on it to create an interference fit so the washer stayed affixed? I know it sounds like a hillbilly repair, but it would be very cheap and serve the same function as a nut. Drawback is a little die grinder work to remove the weld if you need to disassemble the pump.
    Idea #2.......tapered roller bearings. A ball or roller bearing is not designed for a side [ or thrust] load. Tapered roller bearings take their load on the face of the roller and can with stand much higher side loads. I don't know if if any thing is a drop in replacement but it should be investigated. Maybe even machine the pump housing for them. Once again, an idea to ponder.
    Idea #3...... Different thrust bearing for the engine. Based on the Ninja motorcycle engine, an application with almost no thrust load, the puny thrust washers soon fail when the drive shaft loads the coupler. In the cases I've seen you can actually see where the drive shaft coupler has ran in direct contact with the engine coupler, leaving a shiny mark on them. Can the block be machined for an extra thrust washer? How about a roller bearing thrust washer?
    Remember guys ,I didn't say these were the solutions, only ideas. This issue has to be causing Kawasaki a lot of money in warranty bills, and will cost consumers a lot of money as these skis age and they are stuck with large repair bills. Feedback?
    1. hillbilly repair why compromise no point. weld can break under the massive amounts of torque and vibration. not much peace of mind here.
    2. researched this with engineer friend unable to locate a suitable rpm rated bearing.
    3. done. cost $800 aud.

    IMO - engine alignment is no1 factor, 2-5 mm off centre 250 + hp @ 8000 rpm pushing on your $40 for a few hours, unhooking, hooking up, unhooking, hooking up..............him bang sometime soon. Engine mounts are not the best, check alignment often when you replace those cheap bearings, small price to pay.

  6. #6
    RonJon's Avatar
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    Hey guys what models does the pump bearing failure effect??

    I have an 08 15F with 215 hours so Just curious if there is anything preventative I need to do?

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