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  1. #1

    2001 Polaris Genesis Plaining Issue

    My buddy has an 01 genesis and we are having problems with it plaining out. Once you get going for about 10 seconds you can get up and go but it takes awhile. With one person riding its not too bad but with two people riding it..it takes forever and it shouldn't do that considering it has a 1200cc motor. We did have to replace the intake grate and rideplate on it. While we were doing that we had to pull the jet pump assembly...I was thinking that maybe the jet pump needs to be rebuilt because theres probably a bearing in it going out or something I would imagine? I don't really think it would be anything else since it will get up and go eventually. I appreciate any help on this..


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Need some more information

    Is this Genesis new to your friend?
    Has it ever worked properly?

    What engine RPM are you seeing while it is trying to get on plane?
    At top speed, what engine RPM are you seeing?
    At top speed, what speed is the display showing?
    Note: Press the Display button to see the RPM in digital format.

    When the ride plate was replaced, was it carefully sealed to the hull?
    Was the jet pump base removed and re-sealed to the hull?

    It is critical that the ride plate and the jet pump base both be 100% sealed where they meet the hull. Any air leaks down there can allow air to ventilate the jet pump, which will greatly reduce thrust.
    Last edited by K447; 07-06-2010 at 11:30 PM.

  3. #3
    Genesis is not new to him...ski was ridden on lake michigan and hit some big waves and damaged the intake grate along with the rideplate..so we ordered another grate and rideplate for it..engine will get up to full rpms once you plain out...it just takes a few seconds to do it..It just is bogging down when it gets under a heavier load..with one person riding it it will plain out better but still bogs a little...going to check the sealant on the grate and rideplate tomorrow..jet pump base was not removed..we only removed the driveshaft with the impeller and housing from there back. Housing that is sealed to the hull was not removed..

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Importance of carefully sealing ride plate and jet pump intake to prevent ventilation

    Everything forward of the impeller, all the way to the ride plate, must be 100% sealed against air leaks.

    The impeller creates a strong suction during low speed acceleration, and there must be zero places where air could get pulled into the jet pump forward of the impeller.

    You didn't mention what the engine RPM does when you try to accelerate from slow speed. Does the engine rev very high right away?

    Per the Polaris service manual;
    Ventilation / Cavitation Diagnostics
    If a watercraft exhibits poor performance during accelerating, high engine RPM with little forward speed or power, inconsistent RPM, or difficulty pulling skiers out of the water, pump ventilation or cavitation may be the cause.

    Ventilation
    Ventilation results when air enters the pump inlet tract and is compressed by the impeller, causing a reduction in thrust and an increase in engine RPM. Small leaks are often difficult to diagnose. A hole or crack the size of a pin in the sealed area around the pump intake tract is enough to cause ventilation.

    Some possible sources of air are:
    1. Intake scoop - An improperly sealed intake scoop is the most common cause of ventilation. Make sure the scoop has a complete bead of Marine Grade silicone sealer all the way around without any gaps or pin holes.
    Sometimes, small leaks in the silicone sealer around the intake scoop are hard to detect with a visual inspection.

    The following method may make it easier to see. See page 5.17 for scoop installation.
    1. Turn high speed fuel screws out (counterclockwise) 1/2 turn, and operate the craft.
    2. Remove intake grate, and look for exhaust trail (black smoke path) in the area around the scoop.
    3. Remove intake scoop, clean and re-seal with a complete bead of Marine Grade silicone sealant. Refer to illustration below for critical sealing points in the pump area.
    4. Reinstall pump, ride plate, and intake grate and set high speed screws back to original position.
    2. Ride plate - The ride plate must be completely sealed in the area around the intake scoop, and also in the area where the hull meets the pump cavity.
    3. Drive shaft bearing housing or through hull fitting - If the drive shaft bearing carrier seals are worn or damaged, air may be drawn into the pump from the engine compartment. Also inspect the through-hull fitting. The entire circumference of the fitting must be sealed to prevent water from entering the hull, and air from entering the pump.
    Refer to Chapter 6 for through hull fitting repair.
    4. Incorrectly mounted pump (pump sealing O-ring leakage). This can be caused by a damaged pump sealing O-ring, an improperly installed intake scoop or a misaligned pump (there should be no detectable gap between pump housing and hull).
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  5. #5
    I sealed it up a lot better and it will only do it once in a while...it tends to do it more often when you take sharper corners or if you do a 180 with it then try to accelerate it will take a few seconds to plain out.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by polarisrider007 View Post
    I sealed it up a lot better and it will only do it once in a while...it tends to do it more often when you take sharper corners or if you do a 180 with it then try to accelerate it will take a few seconds to plain out.
    If you go easy on the throttle when doing those maneuvers until the impeller can grab the water again, does it hook up faster then if you just keep the throttle pegged?

    Are the seals in the through-hull housing in good condition?

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