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  1. #1
    mikevv's Avatar
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    Stock RXP-X ride plate removal

    We are in the process of dropping the stock ride plate on our 2008 RXP-X to fix a few leaking torx bolts including one under the pump shoe. I have searched the forum but can't seem to find any help on ride plate removal. We have it starting to come off but don't understand how the water inlet and outlet fitting are connected? Can we drop the plate with the two hoses attached? How do they fit in the hull?


  2. #2
    Nothin' better than Doo'in it! BigDaddyRXP's Avatar
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    Remove the hoses & unscrew the plate fittings from inside the hull before attempting to remove the plate.

  3. #3
    mikevv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyRXP View Post
    Remove the hoses & unscrew the plate fittings from inside the hull before attempting to remove the plate.
    Would you suggest removing the plastic cowling at the rear of the hull opening to get better access to all of the hoses and fitting in the back of the boat? It looks difficult to get at the plate fittings from inside the hull.

    And what kind of sealer do we use to put it back on? Riva calls it "below waterline silicon"?

  4. #4
    Nothin' better than Doo'in it! BigDaddyRXP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikevv View Post
    Would you suggest removing the plastic cowling at the rear of the hull opening to get better access to all of the hoses and fitting in the back of the boat? It looks difficult to get at the plate fittings from inside the hull.

    And what kind of sealer do we use to put it back on? Riva calls it "below waterline silicon"?
    Your probably going to be removing a lot more than just the engine cowling... to remove the hoses & fittings from the plate! The plate needs to be sealed back up with permatex "right stuff".

  5. #5
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    if you search, you'll find a long detailed story on my removal of a 4-tec ride plate.

    You'll need a small bottle jack..a good supply of single edge blades to scrape the old sealant off..and lots of patience

    get a manual too..a digital camera to take picture so the hose routing a a good pad to take notes and make diagrams.

    mistakes here get expensive in a heartbeat.

  6. #6
    mikevv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyRXP View Post
    Your probably going to be removing a lot more than just the engine cowling... to remove the hoses & fittings from the plate! The plate needs to be sealed back up with permatex "right stuff".
    Do we need to remove the hoses inside the hull if we only intend to drop the ride plate an inch or two? We are only dropping it enought to get a torx bolt out to reseal it. It's the one under the pump shoe so we only need maybe an inch of clearance?

  7. #7
    Nothin' better than Doo'in it! BigDaddyRXP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikevv View Post
    Do we need to remove the hoses inside the hull if we only intend to drop the ride plate an inch or two? We are only dropping it enought to get a torx bolt out to reseal it. It's the one under the pump shoe so we only need maybe an inch of clearance?
    The hose clamps will not drop through the hull... nor will the hoses. Your best bet is to pull the plate & fully drain it so that you can reseal the bolts & plate properly.

  8. #8
    DaveC's Avatar
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    Not really an easy way to drop the plate. Since they have a type of sealant between the plate and the hull, you would need to clean that out and apply fresh sealant. If you are unable to reach the screws that are leaking by just removing the pump, you may need to go the long route.
    Some have attempted to remove the plates with the plastic fittings still attached only to break those fittings in the plate.

  9. #9
    Never Time To Ride antoniodef's Avatar
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    I had a few that leaked. Tightened the ones I could reach...there was one I couldn't. It was bothering me, so I read up on pulling the plate. It is way more work than it is worth if you only have a slow leak. I put some silicone over the leaking torx head. Not sure if it is related, but once it actually warmed up and started getting humid here in Michigan, my slow leak went away. I just make sure to check my antifreeze regularly, but I have never had to add any yet.

  10. #10
    Vern's Avatar
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    Gotta agree with Dave and Antonio ... its a lot of hard work to drop the rideplate on these skis and you can end up with far worse trouble if you are not very careful with the re-install. Tighten all the bolts you can get to, and silicone any you can't, like Antonio said. It is way too much work to drop the plate just for one possible tiny leak on one or two bolts you can't reach.

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