Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    skigolfnut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    League City TX
    Posts
    1,979
    +1
    33

    Pro 785 flywheel removal

    I have seen many a post on the flywheel removal on all models,
    I am going on day 2 with a decent harmonic balancer puller tightened as far as I could get it by a hand ratchet,
    My next step is to bring it up to work and use an impact wrench on it to put a little extra tug on it,
    My first attempt sheared off the cheap bolts into the flywheel, (panic) but the broken ends screwed out with no problem,
    any extra hints or tricks that anyone has used?

    standing by,


  2. #2
    bowsniper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    macomb,michigan
    Posts
    5,896
    +1
    6
    use 6mm grade 8 bolts. the cheap ones will snap off.. heat the snout too and spray pb blaster on the snout.. you may have to cook off the red locktite on the shaft if it was put on with it to get it to budge.. some tapping on the center bolt on the puller should help too..

  3. #3
    skigolfnut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    League City TX
    Posts
    1,979
    +1
    33
    thanks,
    I bought some grade 8 bolts after the first set of cheep bolts snapped off into the flywheel, that was a panic moment when the bolts broke even with the flywheel, I am glad they came out,
    I have some PB blaster I will try tonight,

  4. #4
    bowsniper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    macomb,michigan
    Posts
    5,896
    +1
    6
    make sure you put a rope in the mag piston above the ports too before you put the rope in.. use a 1/4 inch poly line. . that way it wont get caught in the tranfer port,exhaust or intake ports. go thru the spark plug hole to put it in and that will allow you to stop the crank from moving while trying to get the nut off.

    you can leave the plug out, no biggie..

    an impact would work, but I dont have that set up here myself.. watch out for the woodruff key falling out.. make sure its the woodruff key that has a veritical slot in it too. its a special key, not a woodruff key in your tool box!.. then use red loctite on the snout of the crank, key and slot before reassembling it. Use the thread locker, not the other red loc-tite. thats for sealing...... I also used a brass hammer to seat the wheel first onto the key and then start cranking down the nut.. check the threads on the crank snout and the nut for good threads. then crank it on slowly so it glides on straight n true, then torque to specs.. I forget right off hand how much torque..

    clean any debris on the stator cover and check the timing mark is where it suppose to be. this will be your only chance to check it before your put the wheel back on.. dont go too far with the puller bolts or else you can stab the stator and ruin it. just in 5 or 6 threads so it passes thru the wheel, no more.. more is not gonna get you any more torque, just trouble..

    I lightly greased my cover to catch any micro particles of metal possibly flying or bouncing around in there. I also sprayed the the entire area down first. and wipe up any debris I found.. . then make sure the bushing is in the cover for the bendix.. grease the hole before you put it back on.. grease the helical shaft on the bendix, then move it by hand so you see it moving.. if too much grease is used, it can hang up.. then grease both ends where the gears are.. then you should be good to go.. also check the keyway for being worn out on the crank snout.. should be hard 90 degree angles. not mulled over.. that would come from the key getting smashed from it being loose like mine was.. Good LUCK!! and keep winning! you the man!!!!!! lol

  5. #5
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Cleveland OH
    Posts
    17,330
    +1
    31
    I don't know why they used such small bolts for the PRO flywheel. The SL uses larger bolts.....

    Yes, grade 8 bolts are a must.

    Anchor the engine down to something if it's not in the ski. (I bolted mine to my work bench)

    Use a 1/2" breaker bar with a cheater pipe to give you about 3' or longer of leverage, and crank the crap out of the puller.

    Then, with all that tension on the puller, hit it with some heat on the flywheel (you want it to expand, not the crank). I used a heat gun, but a torch would work faster.

    That should do the trick without adding too much heat to the stator behind the flywheel possibly damaging it. (Gee, wonder why Bow's stator is dead......)

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,601
    +1
    1,276
    Leave the nut threaded onto the shaft a few turns, so the flywheel does not go flying when it releases.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. PRO-785 STARTER REMOVAL-then black sludge
    By skigolfnut in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 11-26-2010, 05:51 PM
  2. Pro 785 starter removal
    By skigolfnut in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-11-2010, 12:40 PM
  3. stock pro 785 choke removal
    By skigolfnut in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-29-2010, 07:50 PM
  4. Pro 785 flywheel nut for crankshaft size?
    By skigolfnut in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 07-12-2010, 08:21 AM
  5. Pro 785 flywheel pull-
    By skigolfnut in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-08-2010, 04:44 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •