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  1. #1

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    99 genesis ficht no spark

    Im new here.
    Ive had this for 8 years. Have to put plugs in every other year. Started to sputter a bit 2 weeks ago. Started it this past weekend and it sputtered so I replaced plugs before heading out. No heading out occured because it would not start at all. I know that I have no spark or fuel pump action. I have a manual and I fix cars for a living. It's just hard for me to get my head around this. The kill switch seems to work properly. The crank sensor ohms at 151 which in my opinion does not match what the book says but falls in line with what someone in this forum said it should be. The stator ohms to what the book says and is not shorted to ground. One ignition coil ohms slightly higher then the other two. The 2 fuses inside the electric box are good. The fuel pump has power going to it and will run if grounded. I disconnected the tps and still no spark. I have a 96 sl700 and found that it would not start if the battery was not 100%. This battery is new last year and I have kept it charged. Also remember it started before I changed the plugs. I'm not sure whether this problem has been festering for years or just dumped on me now. I dont feel that I have tested enough things to condem the emm just yet. Any suggestions on what to test and how to go about it would be very helpfull. Thank you, Ralph


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow By-pass 1999 Genesis FFI (Ficht) LR-503 Start/Stop module

    Welcome

    I would say you have covered a lot of diagnostic ground already.

    I suggest by-passing the LR-503 Start/Stop module (4010263), as it can shut down the EMM if the module is nor working properly.

    Open the electrical box that houses the LR-503 module. Unplug all the wires that connect directly to the LR-503.

    Temporarily move the remaining Black/White wire to a Black terminal.

    You have now by-passed the Start/Stop module, and the Start button will start the engine, but will not stop it. Only the lanyard will stop the engine.

    See if the engine starts and runs properly. If it does, reconnect the LR-503. If the problem returns, replace the LR-503 module.

    If by-passing the LR-503 has no effect, then the EMM is suspect.
    Last edited by K447; 08-10-2010 at 10:54 PM.

  3. #3

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    Thanks, I'll check it tomorrow

  4. #4

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    I disconnected all the wires from the LR module. I took the black and white wire that was plugged to the board with the LR module wire and moved it to a row of black wires. No crank. It won't crank with the purple/white wire (from the LR) disconnected. Did I miss something?

  5. #5

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    Some more info. As I mentioned, the crank sensor ohmed at 151. This morning I hooked a lab scope to the crank sensor to check output. I barely get one volt and had a brief 5 volt spike. This is way not enough if it were on a car. I pulled the sensor out and looked at it. It looks like something nicked the bottom of it. It's not broken but It's odd the it has minor trama on it. Ralph

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph Sr. View Post
    I disconnected all the wires from the LR module. I took the black and white wire that was plugged to the board with the LR module wire and moved it to a row of black wires. No crank. It won't crank with the purple/white wire (from the LR) disconnected. Did I miss something?
    Wrong Black/White wire is grounded. Move the Black/White wire that is NOT connected to the LR module to a Black terminal.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Wrong Black/White wire is grounded. Move the Black/White wire that is NOT connected to the LR module to a Black terminal.
    I grabbed the wrong wire. Anyway, no spark. Is there something that would affect the crank sensor output even if it ohms ok? Also someone said that the fuel pump should run a few seconds when the lanyard is hooked up, It does not.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph Sr. View Post
    I grabbed the wrong wire. Anyway, no spark. Is there something that would affect the crank sensor output even if it ohms ok?

    Also someone said that the fuel pump should run a few seconds when the lanyard is hooked up, It does not.
    Lanyard insertion does not affect fuel pmp until engine is cranking.

    A CPS can be bad, despite correct ohm measurement.

    I am thinking the EMM needs repair, but if you have access to another CPS to try, I would do that first.

    Call DFI. If you send your EMM to them and it turns out to be good, the cost is minimal.

    If it needs repair, then it needs repair.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph Sr. View Post
    Some more info. As I mentioned, the crank sensor ohmed at 151. This morning I hooked a lab scope to the crank sensor to check output. I barely get one volt and had a brief 5 volt spike. This is way not enough if it were on a car.

    I pulled the sensor out and looked at it. It looks like something nicked the bottom of it. It's not broken but It's odd that it has minor trauma on it. Ralph
    Is there any sign of metal dust or debris on the CPS sensor or down in the hole or on the flywheel?

    Sometimes the magnets on the inside of the flywheel loose their bonding and shift around or break apart. This can cause damage to the stator, the CPS, and generally is not a good thing. That is why you are looking for signs of metal bits flying around inside there.

    Direct inspection of the inside of the flywheel and the stator is the best method of checking, but that involves removing the flywheel. Hard to do with the engine in the hull.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Is there any sign of metal dust or debris on the CPS sensor or down in the hole or on the flywheel?

    Sometimes the magnets on the inside of the flywheel loose their bonding and shift around or break apart. This can cause damage to the stator, the CPS, and generally is not a good thing. That is why you are looking for signs of metal bits flying around inside there. Tiny shiny specs is what I see.

    Direct inspection of the inside of the flywheel and the stator is the best method of checking, but that involves removing the flywheel. Hard to do with the engine in the hull.
    I had to know if something was in there so I pulled the flywheel off. I found 5 or 6 ring gear teeth that are chipped bad. I ordered a flywheel and crank sensor. Maybe it will help or maybe it won't but I don't want to put chipped teeth back in. I'll be back in touch after I get the parts and install them. Thankyou for your help so far. Ralph

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