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  1. #1

    2002 Virage i Check Engine Light

    Hi All -

    This is my first post to the forum and I am the new owner of a 2002 Polaris Virage i. When i took the ski out on the water this past weekend all ran fine and there were no problems except the check engine light would blink for a few seconds every once in a while.

    I couldn't notice a definate pattern but it seemed to only come on at low RPM when stopping (i.e. no throttle) or when doing agressive maneuvers on the water.

    I tried the guide to read the codes using an LED and jumper wire but for some reason it did not work. I followed all of the directions and checked things over and over but when I put the key in, the EMM comes on and the LED on the dash blinks 5 times, stops, then 5 times again, but no blinking on the LED i attached to the 12 pin connector.

    Any advice would be apreciated. I can't stand not riding the new ski but don't want to use it too much if there is an engine problem.

    Thanks!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Not sure why the code reading LED didn't work for you.

    Do you unplug the 12 pin connector from the back of the MFI display? That is the connector to used for the code reading LED, not the 12 pin connector at the EMM itself.

  3. #3

    12 pin connector

    I did not unplug from the back of the MFI, I will need to take the cover off and try it that way tonight.

    I will report back with the codes I find.

    Thanks!

  4. #4
    I was able to read the codes and here is what it came back with:
    81 - #1 (mag) ignition coil open primary
    82 - #3 (PTO) ignition coil open primary
    43 - Coolant Temperature Sensor Above Expected Range

    From the manual it looks like code 43 should activate S.L.O.W but when I run it for a few seconds it goes up to higher than 3500 RPM and also when we were out on the water the other day with the light on and off, it ran at full speed with no problems.

    Where do I start to troubleshoot?

    I tried clearing the codes but no luck because of the HARD code I would assume. Could the hard code be because I have run out of the water for 10 second intervals 4 or 5 times and should put it in the water and see if it clears itself?

    Any help is appreciated.

    Thanks!

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    The codes should all clear, except the hard codes.

    Out of range doesn't mean hot, it means the reading from the sensor is just way beyond reasonable. Short circuit, open circuit, very high or very low resistance.

    If the sensor reading is out of bounds, then the EMM will ignore the sensor, and choose a 'safe' operating mode until the sensor reading starts making sense.

    Ohm check the exhaust temp sensor. Should be close to 1000 ohms.

    Examine both halves of the connector for dirt, grease or damage. Also check for damage along the wires.

  6. #6
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Name:	Water Temp Sensor.jpg 
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    Sorry for the basic question but is this where the sensor is? I removed bolt and the small metal clip holding it on but didn't want to pull too hard on the wires if this was not the correct sensor. From the parts diagram this looks like the correct part but want to double check.

    Also, if it is, do I need to remove any other parts before pulling the sensor or can I just pull out from the side of the Exhaust.

    Thanks!

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bnkeaane View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Water Temp Sensor.jpg 
Views:	175 
Size:	152.4 KB 
ID:	204862
    Sorry for the basic question but is this where the sensor is? I removed bolt and the small metal clip holding it on but didn't want to pull too hard on the wires if this was not the correct sensor. From the parts diagram this looks like the correct part but want to double check.

    Also, if it is, do I need to remove any other parts before pulling the sensor or can I just pull out from the side of the Exhaust.

    Thanks!
    Yep, that be the exhaust temperature sensor for a Ficht engine.

    Sometimes they are stuck in place with a sealant type goop inside the hole. Be gentle but firm.

    You do not need to remove it to check the ohms. Just find the connector nearby, unplug it, and measure at the connector.

  8. #8
    Ok, so I Ohm checked the sensor and it checked out at 990-1000, connectors looked clean and no damage to the wires. Anything else to check easily to troubleshoot? Also, what can be done to check the ignition coil open codes, or are they all related?

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bnkeaane View Post
    ...what can be done to check the ignition coil open codes, or are they all related?
    You can redo the coil grounds. The link below leads to a how-to in the Ficht section.

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