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  1. #1

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    Thumbs up Tec tip on sparkplugs for you!

    Preventave mantinance Tip: Take time to remove your sparkplugs from your ski and put anti- sieze on the sparkplug threads and re instal in your ski. Over time the steel sparkplug and the alum head the sparkplugs will have a reaction to each other and try to sieze them to each other. Then 6 months later when you go to try to get them out they are frozen in tight. Also when you are replacing the sparkplugs with new ones be sure to put anti-sieze on the new sparkplugs too. I did not have any problems with my ski but I just wanted to pass this tip along to the new guys that are just getting into the sport. Tommy Jordan


  2. #2
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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  3. #3
    Addicted Member 5001craig's Avatar
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    My Pops told me he did this with his '62 F-85 and it had aluminum heads and block. Others that didn't go this route had lots of trouble keeping the spark plug threads in the heads.

    Every plug I install gets antisieze.

    Great post!

  4. #4
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    My general rule is if it gets hot or wet anti-seize.

  5. #5
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    To add to this the torque spec is 18ft-lbs, I always torque mine, as a sanity measure more than anything else.
    Last edited by OsideBill; 07-16-2010 at 12:06 AM.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by OsideBill View Post
    To add this the torque spec is 18ft-lbs, I always torque mine, as a sanity measure more than anything else.
    You will want to drop the torque 3-4 ft-lbs if you use anti-seize. It is a good idea, but, you lose some feel, therefore, a torque wrench is almost a must.

  7. #7
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack B View Post
    You will want to drop the torque 3-4 ft-lbs if you use anti-seize. It is a good idea, but, you lose some feel, therefore, a torque wrench is almost a must.
    Why??? Torque is torque

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by OsideBill View Post
    Why??? Torque is torque
    Part of the torque is over-coming the resistance of the threads. As an example, the typical torque is 18 ft lbs on aluminum heads. That number is two parts, the actual torque holding the plug to the head and the resistance of the threads. Let's arbitrarily say that the threads create 5 ft lbs of torque/resistance and the remaining 13 ft lbs is holding the plug to the head. In that scenario the threads only have 13 ft lbs applied to them. If i eliminate the thread resistance and torque up to 18 ft lbs, that entire value now appears across the threads and they will not like it.

    I have several engines with aluminum heads and always use anti-seize. You should use very little and always use a torque wrench. I also drop the torque down to 15 ft lbs. It is remarkable how much feel you lose with the anti-seize. If you do a google on anti-seize and engine head studs you will find some interesting white papers. When you use studs instead of head bolts the torque drops approximately 30% because you do not have to overcome the friction of a deep head bolt since you are applying torque to a nut.

  9. #9
    Stop staring at my tits NJJer's Avatar
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    If you must use Never Seize make sure to use the "copper" type.

    If you use the "silver" colored type, you may find yourself chasing a mis-fire later on that will drive you crazy.

    FYI, check the plug manufacturers website of that which you are using. Some plugs already come with a coating on the threads which require no other type of anti-seize coating. Champion is one example.

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