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  1. #1
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    99GP1200 engine removal advice Please

    I need to pull the entire motor out. I have one question do I pull the bolts from the center of the motor mounts or the ones that mount to the hull?

    Thanks Bill


  2. #2

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    center

  3. #3
    GPKiwi's Avatar
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    I have never pulled the motor right out, but would undo the center bolts. For my reason would be that you won't have to line it back up again with the coupler, well should be easier to fit back in the right spot. Also the hull bolts you may have a chance of breaking the bolt head off IF they have never been out. Plus it's only 4 bolts vs's 8!

    Just my opinion.

  4. #4
    DAGO RACING CREW 97GPSLEEPER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GPKiwi View Post
    I have never pulled the motor right out, but would undo the center bolts. For my reason would be that you won't have to line it back up again with the coupler, well should be easier to fit back in the right spot. Also the hull bolts you may have a chance of breaking the bolt head off IF they have never been out. Plus it's only 4 bolts vs's 8!

    Just my opinion.
    Ditto

    osidebill, what is the motor coming out for?

  5. #5
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    The motor is coming out to remove all the broken intake bolts (6) in the case. Everytime I wrench on this I find another "gotcha" from the previous owner. The center bolt is also what the manual reccomended although when I tried to turn it would just torque the rubber. I imagine it has red loctite like everthing else I have found on this. I ended up removing the 8 lower bolts and yes I did break one but was able to extract it from the hull. I have a fresh bored cylinder new pistons and a GroupK cut stock head going in it previously had a Pro-Tec high compression head. I am tired of paying for race gas and mixing besides my plan is to sell and I want it to be reliable for the next owner. I guarantee who ever it is will be getting a more reliable maintainable cleaner boat than I did when I bought it. I have just finished balancing all the pistons to within .1 gram of each other I did this in my other ski it was a piece of cake this time I had a huge variance between pistons took awhile to finish. Thanks for the help I will keep you posted.

  6. #6
    Flying Scotsman's Avatar
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    Bill I have only ever done the center bolts.

    Here's the question I have wanted to ask a long time but never did.

    Has anyone got a recomendation on the Monkey grip mounts.

    If there is a improvement over stock I want some.

    Anyone using them what do you think.

    SCOTT................

  7. #7
    Duke's Avatar
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    Remove center bolts only.

    Remove exhaust pipe but not manifold.

    Carbs stay on, arresters or air box must be removed.

    Rotate engine so that exaust manifold faces upward and motor will pull straight out.

    I remove main water line, ground and starter wire while it is in the air over engine bay.

    Never heard of Monky grip, we used Goki. Held up better in race conditions.

    Hope this helps.

  8. #8
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    So after pulling the motor and spending hours removing broken bolts and cleaning holes I ended up with one I had to drill and tap to remove. I found so much red loctite in the bottom of the holes it was ridiculous. I even found the pulse lines loctited to the nipples. I decided since it was this far apart to split the cases and put in new seals. I found a lot of marks on the journal areas where the bearings are clamped almost looks like it was moving a little is this normal? I will post picture later. Thanks for the replies

  9. #9
    Flying Scotsman's Avatar
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    Normal for bearings to move,some move more than others.
    Figure out the direction your crank spins when running and turn the bearings the same direction when locating them on the crank case pins. Leave any slop between bearing and pin in the opposite direction and locktite them in position.(Green I bellieve).
    SCOTT..........

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