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  1. #1
    Ultra151's Avatar
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    How to take cylinder head off Ultra 150

    I have a 2000 Ultra 150 with mods. The cylinder is aftermarket - ADA Billet Head.

    I did a compression test tonight with a cheap compression tester. But I got #1 = 120psi, #2 = 60psi and #3 = 120psi. All 3 cylinders tested with a fully charged and brand new battery. The ski's dashboard panel continues to flash the battery light and the red warning light flashes as well. So I trickle charged the battery for 4 hours (until green "full charge" light came on to my charging unit). I compression tested #2 again and got 60psi.

    Machine is currently at 104 hours. At 93 hours piston #3 was fully rebuilt. At that time compression test for cylinders came out #1=145psi, #2=145psi, and #3=0psi using a service technician's compression tester.

    So I want to take the cylinder head off and look at piston #2.

    Can you tell me the steps to go through...what to do...what not to do, etc.

    I have never done this before -- but I am eager to tackle the job.

    Thanks for your help.

    Here are some pics of the cylinder case right after tonight's compression tests.Click image for larger version. 

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    Ignore the 0psi tester reading...I let the pressure off the gauge before snapping photos

    And here is something unusual to me...the top of the spark plug from #2 is almost bent down to touch the rest of the plug...see if you can see it. Does that shed any light on what might be going on?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    That spark plug was put in at 93 hours.
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  2. #2

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    If you have low compression on your middle cylinder pull the jug off and check the sides of the piston. My guess is poor oiling. The center cylinder relies completely on the oil from the carb to oil it, while the outers get some from the block as well as the carbs.

    To take the head off, just take off your pisser hoses and all of the nuts around the head and lift it off. To take the cylinder off you have to remove the head, take off the exhaust pipe, move the carbs out of the way, remove exhaust manifold, and unbolt the cylinder from the water log and block and it should lift right out. Then you can see the skirt of the piston and that will tell you the story. Also check the cylinder wall.

    The plug electrode being bent could be from piston contact or from detonation. If it hit the piston, you have something wrong with your rod/crank or the piston came apart and the piston piece hit the plug on its way up, if it was detonation, you will be able to tell by looking at the piston once you get the head off.

  3. #3
    Ultra151's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by formula2fast View Post
    ...just take off your pisser hoses...
    Is this the "pisser hose"?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    If so, do I remove it simply by cutting the cable tie?
    Also, do I need to cap the hose to prevent leakage from whatever goes through that tube?

  4. #4
    Ultra151's Avatar
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    Also, how possible is it that my problem is only a fouled spark plug.

    Could this possibly be a $3 repair solution?

  5. #5
    Moderator DrewNJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ultra151 View Post
    Also, how possible is it that my problem is only a fouled spark plug.

    Could this possibly be a $3 repair solution?
    Not a $3 fix and your right back where you were with #3. What was the story behind your carbs? Were they properly modded? Who did the work? Did you do anything with those oil lines?
    I'd bet those are stock/unmodded carbs/FA's and that is the source of your problem. Stock/unmodded carbs are NOT going to work with a modded motor.

  6. #6
    Ultra151's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrewNJ View Post
    What was the story behind your carbs? Were they properly modded? Who did the work? Did you do anything with those oil lines?
    • Carbs = service technician checked them -- they were ok
    • Carbs Properly Modded -- I don't know how I would be able to tell that
    • Carbs Who Modded -- prior/original owner
    • Oil Lines = no, not yet
    Question back to you...assuming the prior/original owner had no maintenance issues, then the carbs would have been properly modded? I bought machine at 91 hours

    P.S. still would like to know if I red-line circled the "pisser hose"

  7. #7
    Moderator DrewNJ's Avatar
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    yes, red is the pisser hose.
    The reason I question who modded the carbs is because it is something that there are probably only a handful of people that I know of that does that mod correctly. Those carbs are not just your typical ski carb and I'm fairly certain that kawi 1200 motor is the only ski application that they are used on. Not many people know a whole lot about them.....especially not a general jetski repair shop.
    I've done probably a hundred or so carb rebuilds on various skis/carbs and want nothing to do with even touching those carbs. IMHO they are junk... . I just don't like them....
    I HIGHLY doubt that the repair shop that did your rebuild would know how to properly mod them....JMHO as I have no idea who did your work.
    How long did the prior owner have the ski modded before you bought it? As you can tell it takes a little bit of time for the problem to show up and do damage. In my case it took about 20 hours of running before we really noticed the ski not running right (we only had added flame arrestors at that time).
    IMHO- if it were my ski I'd do the rebuild of the cylinder and pull the carbs myself and send them to Steve at Skiworx to either verify they have been modded right or to do the mod to the carbs and flame arrestors correctly. This is the only way you are going to know for sure it's done correct.
    or
    you lost the oil line on #2

    Either way, pull the motor, pull the head and take some pics and post them up.
    Good luck man!

  8. #8
    Ultra151's Avatar
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    Owner bought ski brand new in 2000. Below is a list of all invoice data that the owner gave to me at time of purchase. It seems that all mods were done in the first summer of ownership. And having talked to the seller/owner - he was very proud of his machine and all it could do. I bought it in April 2010 -- 10 years after original purchase. It had 91 hours on it when I bought. The owner indicated his interests were moving away from watercraft and on to land bikes. So you will see that he did a compression test in 2006 at 85 hours. That means he only put 6 more hours on it from 2007-2009. Not sure if that's a red flag or just him telling the truth.

    Here ya go (maybe this answers a lot of your questions -- sure doesn't for a newbie like me):
    ORIGINAL JET SKI (Everything below right off invoices)
    3/14/2000 Marine Cement 8oz. $4.00
    3/14/2000 Original owner received welcome letter and limited warranty card $0.00
    3/14/2000 R&D Aquavein Kaw Ultra 150 $73.00
    3/14/2000 Stiffie ID Kit GRY-CARB/BLK $13.00
    3/14/2000 Tiedowns Original Red $28.00
    3/14/2000 Turf Side Lift Wedge $9.00
    5/17/2000 Dome, Ultra 150 42cc +20 LBS from Stock (Warning: Not
    recommended for pump gas without proper ignition and carb tuning!!!) $109.00
    5/17/2000 Kawasaki 150 Ultra Billet Head from ADA Inc $236.00
    5/24/2000 3cyl. Filer kit CV $189.00
    5/24/2000 Exhaust hop-up Ulra 150 $325.00
    5/24/2000 Solas Dyna Fly 16-20 Impeller $200.00
    6/7/2000 Purchased (and assumed installed) 1/2 Water Strainer $15.00
    6/7/2000 Purchased (and assumed installed) Gal/Super M Injector $90.00
    6/7/2000 Purchased (and assumed installed) Ride Plate KAW 1200 Ultra 150 $120.00
    6/19/2000 Aggressor ijs24-ul Sponsons $128.00
    5/14/2001 Service Repair Shop performed "Fuel Tank Vent Hose" Recall
    and Owner 'put a steel vent tube in vent line in handlebar area
    and installed 3" plastic tube in gas tank fill area' $0.00
    2006 Note in owner's file: Compression Test done at 85 hours (140/135/138 )

    Packet included in owner's file: "Group K Modifications for the Kawasaki Ultra 150"

    Finally, thanks for the advice to send machine to someone for professional work. Unfortunately, I am out of budget on this. Truly, at this point if I can't service it myself my next step will be scrapping it and just cutting my losses - chalking it up to one of those later in life learning experiences.

  9. #9
    Moderator DrewNJ's Avatar
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    I'm sorry to hear man, and honestly feel your pain with this. I've been in the same boat more than once and for fear of jumping off the highest building I can find, wouldn't even consider trying to add it all up. And to be honest we really don't know what's causing your issues trying to troubleshoot over the web. I'm just throwing out there what I've been through and it's VERY similar to what your seeing.
    When you get a sec do me one favor. Take off one of the flame arrestors and take a GOOD picture looking down into the opening. It should just twist off.

  10. #10
    Ultra151's Avatar
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    I'll shoot some pics tonight and post...plan to take the cylinder head off as much as I fear getting into a point of no return situation.

    What's killing me the most, and I have posted this numerous emotional times, is the week of July 25th is the big family vacay where the ski is to be the focal point. That's 95% of the reason my wife agreed to making this purchase for the family. Today is a sweltering 85+ degrees with humidity in the 90's -- and I can't even go home and take the machine out. After piston #3 was fixed I thought we were going to be okay. It's just every time we ride this thing something else happens. How can that be for us, but not the original owner?

    Quote Originally Posted by DrewNJ View Post
    And to be honest we really don't know what's causing your issues...
    That is my biggest frustration. Spent $1,086 to get piston #3 fixed and they can't even tell me what caused it. I know troubleshooting over the web is not an effective method -- but it seems to be all I got.

    It makes me pull my hair out wondering "what is going on..."

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