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  1. #1

    What would cause poor performanc e (or no performance at all) when engine is warm?

    I'm breaking this out from my other SLTX thread as it kind of got lost in there...

    I'm still trying to trouble shoot the SLTX - new crank, pistons, ignition, etc.

    It just has no balls. It won't get past 4500 rmp in the water and will barely get on plane.

    One thing I've noticed the last couple times I tried taking it out is that it will seem to run fine on the trailer. When I try to run it around the lake, it has some major bog and will just barely get on plane. After about 10-15 minutes, it will just completely die. I can usually get it started and can idle back to the ramp, but if I give it any gas it will immediately die again. More than once, I have floated for 10 minutes before it would even start.

    This has happened several times now and is pretty consistent. It seems like when it gets warm, it runs even more poorly. I have to believe that this is related to the overall poor performance of the machine.


  2. #2
    In addition to the usual carb and fuel delivery stuff to check make sure you don't have an exhaust leak. My exhaust hose between the muffler and pipe kept comiong loose and caused similar problems for me. When the hull fills with exhaust the carbs start sucking it in.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by orangeman View Post
    In addition to the usual carb and fuel delivery stuff to check make sure you don't have an exhaust leak. My exhaust hose between the muffler and pipe kept comiong loose and caused similar problems for me. When the hull fills with exhaust the carbs start sucking it in.

    I've tried 3 different sets of carbs...the latest being brand new. No exhaust leaks....I've run it with the seat off just to be sure.

  4. #4
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    What do the plugs look like when it's acting up?

    Wet, dry, normal?

    Might want to take a spark tester with you next time.

    On the domestics, once they get warm, the elec stators will start to fail when they go bad.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    What do the plugs look like when it's acting up?

    Wet, dry, normal?

    Might want to take a spark tester with you next time.

    On the domestics, once they get warm, the elec stators will start to fail when they go bad.

    Good call. I have spark when I get back to the ramp, but it may have cooled just enough by then.

    This did get a brand new updated stator/cdi....maybe it was bad out of the box.

  6. #6
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Do domestics need Loctite on the crankshaft when installing the flywheel?

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    Do domestics need Loctite on the crankshaft when installing the flywheel?

    I've never used it. I'll usually put a dab on the bolt holding the flywheel down though.


    I considered that maybe the flywheel spun, but it wouldn't really explain why it'll start back up after it cools a bit.

  8. #8
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Well, take a spark tester with you next time out.

  9. #9
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    check all the #'s on the ignition parts installed,i believe gen 1 and gen 2-3 isn't compatibale in anyway,coils,cdi,stator.have you tried just swapping out another setup out of another ski??mfd and electrical box using just the stator thats in the motor??

  10. #10
    I've swapped a known good CDI. Both CDIs worked perfectly in the SL1050. The SLTX ran the same (poorly) with both as well.

    I've run it with the MFD disconnected and the gray and tan wires disconnected.

    I've clamped the water in hose and did a short WOT run.

    I've ohm'd every part of the ignition and checked static timing.

    I've checked crank index with a dial indicator.



    It just doesn't make sense...

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