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Thread: Oink!

  1. #1

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    Oink!

    Well, "The Pig is back".

    It's new owner didn't like the fact that there was a big hole in the side of the block just under the oil seperator cover. Don't know why??

    For those who don't know "BigPig" she is a 2008 Fx SHO Cruiser that had an oil loss (due to my incompendance), and blew #1 rod during the 2010 Bridge to Bridge race earlier this year. Here is the build thread if your bored and want a long read: http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...ec-M400./page8

    Anyhow, this thread will be a rundown of bringing it all back to life on the smallest budget possible. It'll take a while so please be patient.

    Aim;
    • run in the 2011 Bridge to Bridge race in Sydney in May next year.
    I'll run with what Big Pig had before the big bang......., M400 motec, large diameter 14 vane pump, Motec dash, modded hull design, reinforced pump tunnel design, Besser Block intercooler, water jacketted charge pipes, etc etc.

    This year, after getting the motor back together, the main thing I'll be testing is the ETC8 wheel, 3 roller bearing 8 mm shaft and a new clutch design, all from Art. Pre-lim testing of the supercharger is looking good, therefore that's one of my reasons for getting "back in". The other reasons is having the backing knowledge of Gary Watson to help me out at the right time and you bunch of loveable ppl here on GH.

    Let the photo's begin.......... Hope you all enjoy!!
    Last edited by Gunna; 08-17-2010 at 03:49 AM.


  2. #2
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    Awesome, hope the build goes well.
    Hope Art's newclutch design also works out for us high HP junkies.
    Blew mine on the weekend 3hrs after having the Motec fitted doing some savage wave jumping .
    Good luck and I look foward to following your posts.

  3. #3

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    Compendium of Fuel Pump and other things

    This particular post (and others) will be dedicated to facts that I have collected from people around GH (thanks guys). It will be edited from time to time, rather than been plastered throughout the thread and not been able to find the info again when I need it. So come back and have a read if your chasing particular info. I will be for myself.

    From Motecpete:
    I normally say to people leave the fuel pressure alone but you could probably sneak it up to 60 PSI and it would cure your imeadiate issue.
    Its nice to have the fuel pressure a bit higher when running around 1 bar of boost, the only problem with the Yamaha is the factory pump, rectifier and wiring dont really like being above the 60 PSI mark.


    From Deperato comes:
    Consider tuning with at least 58psi fuel pressure at all times with an E1 wheel to benefit from better post injector fuel atomization.

    Note to self: This is to balance the extra pressure from a higher boost wheel so that the actual pressure/atomisation of the the fuel is similar to standard (ei. pressure difference). Therefore if the ETC8 is pushing 21psi or more I will have to put a fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail to check what's happening. If the yami fuel pump can not get to a high enough pressure Bigpig will have to get a higher spec fuel pump. Compare current draw and voltage at the pump under WOT.

  4. #4

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    Compendium of Motec Sensors and other things

    Same as post #3 but to do with sensors

    Again from Motecpete + Shobiz:

    HI Shobiz
    B22 is indeed AV8 as Gunna said.
    This is one of 8 generic voltage inputs that can measure voltage from any sensor. You need to of course calibrate that sensor in the "Input Set up"
    If you have it wired correctly then you shouldnt effect the other sensors, so your post tells me you have something wrong.
    Most automotive pressure sensors will run off 5V and have a 0V as well as the signal, you dont really want to be hooking 12v to any sensor, lots of reasons for this but I wont go into them now.
    Note: don't use the 12volt sensors because they'll give you crap when you have a low battery.

    From Shobiz about the Aux 5 volt rail and the 0volt rail:
    I am getting 5 volts from the auxillary point A9 & B15.

  5. #5

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    Drive shaft hose

    This can be a concern. Helps stop sinking

    Bigpig's is already fiberglassed in with ally tube but wanted to add this one from Jims Performance, thanks.

    Everyone with a SHO a FZR and FZS should check there drive shaft hose before you sink your ski, Here is some pictures of mine it was collapsed on the spring and on the bottom were i could not see it had a 4 inch gash the only way i was able to tell was run my finger on the bottom of the hose. I checked it because i had a lot of water in the hull, I went to napa and bought a nice thick hose look at the side by side picture and see the difference between the two how much thicker the napa hose is. I also reinstalled the stock spring back in to give it more support.

  6. #6

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    Motec Software Shortcuts

    This post is for Motec software shortcuts and other snippets about ECU manager and I2 log reader:

    From Pete:

    Looking at multiple open files in I2

    The short cut is F8
    You will see all the files you have open, its a bit like a cache I suppose, you can have limitless files open sitting in the back ground there, and as Ed said you simply click on the circle beside the appropriate file to open that file in the program
    A nice feature that you can use is overlays.
    Push F8 and choose a second file, this time not by clicking in the circle but in the square directly right of the circle.
    This will then add that selected file on top of the previous one. you can then slide them back and forth over top of each other by selecting the show data off set axis icon ( top right icon) Short cut "o"
    Extra axis appear at the bottom and this allows you to slide one data file along against the other so you can line up some similar data, such as WOT testing.
    An even easier way to do this is to create laps, but I might start a seperate thread for that one.


    This is the link to the Motec user manual:http://www.motec.com.au/filedownload...pdf?docid=3350

  7. #7

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    Cams all all that


  8. #8

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    Valve Train and other top end bits

    I will be adding a Watson valvetrain setup including springs, seats and retainers which will be good for 10k, in case Bigpig has some air time at full throttel. It's been tested and will be a must for the motor.

  9. #9

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    Spark Plugs

    Some stuff from Desperato:

    The spark plug options are as follows:

    OEM spark plugs: NGK LFR6A

    The design specifics are 14mm thread, 1.04" reach, 5/8" hex socket size, projected tip and copper core.

    Upgraded plugs with colder heat range, designated by the number in the plug part number (higher number = colder heat range for NGK), are:



    Normal Iridium at around $12 per plug:
    LFR7AIX with 0.032 electrode gap (1 heat range colder)
    ILFR7H with 0.024" electrode gap (1 heat range colder)
    Racing Iridium plugs at around $45 per plug:
    R7437-8 with 0.027" electrode gap and projected ground strap (2 heat range colder)
    R7437-9, same as above except 3 heat range colder
    R7438-8 with 0.027" electrode gap and recessed ground strap (2 heat range colder)
    R7438-9, same as above except 3 heat range colder.
    The plug on the right shows R7438-8 R7438-9. The one on the right shows all others.

    In my view, the R7437-8 would be a great choice for weekend warriors running hight boost. For all out endurance racing, the R7438-9 would be a good option.




    And this from Jerry:

    Originally Posted by desperado
    I wish these could be available through the online store...... Jerry...?I wish too but i don't have a source for them to be able to sell them to you guys cheaply enough. When i need them i get them here www.sparkplugs.com

    Their prices are tough to beat.

  10. #10

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    Okay some more news to date.

    The Old Engine Block
    The engine block will be repairable by the guys at Aviation Welding at Archerfeild airport. The block and crankcase will go into Wendy's ski which will remain stock. I still need a safety boat for when we go testing.

    The Old Crankshaft
    The crank was unfortunately catus. Mendum Engineering took one look at it and said thanks for coming in!! LOL. They could resurface/spray weld the #1 but at a cost of about $400aud. Then have it crack tested for another $200. Then if any cracks showed up it would be all in vain. So a nice used crakshaft was a good option. Yes, that is a very heated crank! This is not how you should treat your engine parts. The K1 rod held in there pretty good for having no oil pressure.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Gunna; 08-20-2010 at 05:27 PM.

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