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  1. #1

    SL780 Maintenence (first start in 4 years)

    So I had a brother in law give me a sl780 at no cost. The battery was junk so I got a new one and it is charged and ready to go.
    Before I try starting it I wanted to make sure I dont break something since it has been sitting so long.
    I went ahead and bought new spark plugs. I plan on draining all of the old fuel since it had been sitting so long. What do you think about draining the old oil? Does it go bad after sitting around for a while?
    Can someone give a a good checklist of things to look over before trying to start it up?


  2. #2
    ryandi2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_kraker99 View Post
    So I had a brother in law give me a sl780 at no cost. The battery was junk so I got a new one and it is charged and ready to go.
    Before I try starting it I wanted to make sure I dont break something since it has been sitting so long.
    I went ahead and bought new spark plugs. I plan on draining all of the old fuel since it had been sitting so long. What do you think about draining the old oil? Does it go bad after sitting around for a while?
    Can someone give a a good checklist of things to look over before trying to start it up?
    Welcometo the hulk

    glad to see your not throwing it right in the water

    i would..

    drain and clean gas tank

    drain and clean oil tank

    replace fuel lines

    clean/rebuild carbs

    check fuel switch(clean it)

    check compression (just to know your base line.)

    check jet pump and jet pump bearings.

    after all is checked/cleaned/replaced

    strap it down to the trailer and run it for a bit to make sure you have no leaks of any kind

    then go riding..i would not take any passangers till you are a 100% ur skis 110%

  3. #3
    TopCop931's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_kraker99 View Post
    So I had a brother in law give me a sl780 at no cost. The battery was junk so I got a new one and it is charged and ready to go.
    Before I try starting it I wanted to make sure I dont break something since it has been sitting so long.
    I went ahead and bought new spark plugs. I plan on draining all of the old fuel since it had been sitting so long. What do you think about draining the old oil? Does it go bad after sitting around for a while?
    Can someone give a a good checklist of things to look over before trying to start it up?
    Recently I was in the same exact position as you are in right now. I did all of the above except check the jet pump seals and bearings. I checked the impeller clearance, which is not on the above list and you will also want to do, but I didn't pull that pump out like these guys advised.

    This is what I got for being lazy........http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...-the-high-seas!

    Check out every inch of that ski as these guys advise! Especially the fuel system as ryandi2 suggested. They know what they are talking about. Even when you are up and running good check the compression and piston wash all the time. If there is anything you are unsure of someone here will help you. Some of these guys have gotten tired of all my stupid questions and I can't blame them, but there is always help here. This is a great site.

    BTW: I am already out of pocket about $300.00 large rebuilding my jet pump and I got myself a spare also so I will still be able to run if anything gets sucked in there at another time. If you can get your hands on extra parts that are hard to come by these days it is good to hold onto them even if you don't need them at the time. Most of the parts for these machines are out of production. You can also help someone else out in a jam around here should they need something you may have hanging around.

    My one-time free ski has now cost me about $1000.00 total thus far. It wasn't free after all. Nothing is in this world.

  4. #4
    ryandi2's Avatar
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    i use my compression gauge like its my tooth brush

  5. #5
    K. Just a couple more questions on that. What am I looking for on the jet pump? Should I put a little oil in the spark plug holes before starting since it has been so long? And how long can you run it out of the water? Does a hose need to be hooked up?

  6. #6
    TopCop931's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_kraker99 View Post
    K. Just a couple more questions on that. What am I looking for on the jet pump? Should I put a little oil in the spark plug holes before starting since it has been so long? And how long can you run it out of the water? Does a hose need to be hooked up?
    The things that you are going to check for in that pump are going to require you to take it out. You want to check the stub shaft, bearings, seals, o-rings, impeller and stator. There can be some wear on some of these parts but it has to be within certain specs. It is not hard to take out and K447 took the time to post this thread on how to do it. http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...148mm-jet-pump Follow the steps it is easy as pie. (We all like pie!)

    While it is out check your drive shaft for run-out. Mine was out over .070 and may have been the cause of my problem. If you don't have a dial indicator and V blocks roll it on a level surface or a piece of glass. If it doesn't roll on the glass evenly it is no good. While you have the shaft out check your thru-hull bearing and seals. (Very important. This bearing and set of seals keeps the water out of the hull when the shaft is spinning.) Also check you drive cables and make sure they are up to par. Grease where needed.

    Ask the person that gave it to you if it was properly winterized when it was stored. If so, there is no need to put more two stroke or fog oil in those jugs. (I am telling you this because if there is already too much fogging oil in there it may not all burn off. Some people put in too much and it sits at the bottom of the case.) Just look down into the bores with an small led light and examine the walls and pistons. While you have the shaft out you can have someone spin the engine by hand as you look down the bores with the plugs out if you wish.

    While you have the pump and the shaft out you can run it on the hose for several minutes. When the pump is in there do not run it on the hose for more than 30 seconds. This will heat up all the seals that I just advised you to check and damage them. When running on the hose, you start the engine first, then turn on the water. When you are going to shut it down you first turn off the water and then give the throttle three little short bumps to get the excess water out of the water box then cut it off. You follow that procedure every time you flush as well.

    You're going to be busy for awhile before you take a ride but it will be worth it.

    Any adjustments to idle are made while it is in the water strapped down to the trailer.

    Welcome to the club where we wrench more than ride but the ride it well worth it. I have ridden many skis and owned a Kawasaki back in the early 90's. Nothing I rode compared to the handling of my old girl. That is why I am not willing to spread her parts all over the country yet. Although it did cross my mind last week.

    I don't have any mods either, just the obvious upgrades such as the triple fuel pump and changed all the fuel lines. She still gets it going good though.

  7. #7
    Awesome, thanks for the info!
    I just did some stuff tonight. The fuel lines are black, not the grey ones that are bad. Could have been a previous owner changed them.... It also has an extended ride plate
    A quick question on hooking up the hose. I see in the manual it shows a fitting that I have to buy and replace the screw right by the thermostat. This is the backflush method right? I also heard that I can just take the water inlet hose and attach a hose to that with a barb fitting. What difference would that make?

    Also, can someone tell me what the hose is on my attached picture? It was just sitting on the bottom with a wire screen on it.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #8
    That's your bailer hose. Just put the pick-up (screen) back toward the rear of the hull. The jet pump creates a vacuum, and will draw out water that leaks into the hull

  9. #9

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    the bilge siphon hose draw out water in the hull when it is moving...
    opps didn't see someone already answer that....

  10. #10
    TopCop931's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_kraker99 View Post
    Awesome, thanks for the info!
    I just did some stuff tonight. The fuel lines are black, not the grey ones that are bad. Could have been a previous owner changed them.... It also has an extended ride plate
    A quick question on hooking up the hose. I see in the manual it shows a fitting that I have to buy and replace the screw right by the thermostat. This is the backflush method right? I also heard that I can just take the water inlet hose and attach a hose to that with a barb fitting. What difference would that make?

    Also, can someone tell me what the hose is on my attached picture? It was just sitting on the bottom with a wire screen on it.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yes that hose runs off the jet pump. There should be a fitting at the top of the hull that connects the two hoses. It is a square fitting with a small pinhole in it. You don't want that hose to just flop around down there. The part that is in your hand in the picture should be applied to the bottom of the hull just below the water box. You can secure it down there with 3M 5200 Fast Cure. The screen looks pretty clean, you will want to keep it clean.

    You can put a hose barb on the inlet hose but you will have to remove it every time you flush. You will get better cooling with that as opposed to the flush hose on the water rail. The flush hose on the water rail is more convenient however.

    You can see in the pic below that I had a reverse flush hose on mine when I got it. I removed the reverse flush hose and replaced it with a standard hose for better flow.

    Click image for larger version. 

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