07-27-2010, 08:07 AM #1
- Join Date
- Nov 2009
First time rebuild pitfalls to avoid
Doing my first rebuild (2001 XLT1200 dropped PV pin) and was wondering if you all would share some of the "setbacks" you encountered on your first rebuild. Did you forget to order some bearing or clip? Did you have the wrong threadlock or forget a gasket? (I've got my Threebond 1211 to seal the crankcase & loctite red 271 for crank bolts) Is there one particular little part that is very fragile or critical to line up exactly right? Is there one mod or upgrade you wished you had done while you were "in there"? Printed out all 260+ pages of the English factory service manual as a guide but what would (or did) you do different the next time?
You guys have already been a great help. Thanks for time and expertise.
07-27-2010, 08:23 PM #2
07-28-2010, 05:26 AM #3
- Join Date
- May 2010
First Time Rebuild
WFO gave you the link I used most in doing my '99 xl1200 Ltd. But I also used the link to Cajun Guy which I found on this site. My biggest problem was getting the stinger out of hull, I found it much easier if I removed the first part of the exhaust before stinger and I also found with removal of head it was much easier. Getting the motor back in boat required me to develop an overhead chain hoist arrangement in my garage. The motor is best assemblied out of boat but gets too heavy to lift into hull. I also found that with motor out there were a number of other items that needed checking. I found my fuel tank check valve bad and lots of trash in tank and flapper warped (which may have caused my high speed bog and running lean), also you will want to check carbs which can be very trying with stripped screws (get an impact driver or know how to use a punch to remove stripped screws). Oil line check valves were questionable and replaced, catalyst is a sure replace if not already done. I also used richer jetting based on this site, which I am glad I did. You will also need a flywheel puller and a pump coupling wrench. And I highly recommend the carb insulator and longer bolts from the 2005 models due to sticking carb shafts (I did this after rebuild, when problem showed up). Also, recommend blue locktight for exhaust and carbs as that area can be revisited often if problems arise following rebuild. Plus I hand polished my cylinders, because I have had good luck with that in my other two stoke rebuild, it is time consuming but I had time waiting on new OEM crank. I also was very careful to clean and dry fit all parts before final assembly. All threads were cleaned with wire brush and thread cutter if needed. I also found the carb cables bracket could be removed without messing up final adjustments which are important if use oil injection. Plus I now run about 1 oz of oil in gas in addition to oil injection because in my opinion this ski is too lean on oil and gas based on all the info on this site. I also took time to update ride plate, intake grate, and check all pump components (which in my case were new). I also prayed alot, due to my inablily to stop cussing when working with that exhaust pipe. Prayers must have helped because I really am lucky the ski runs really great now. I was very worried that I was never going to see it run again at several points but it all turned out good in the end. My trip up the Roanoke river last weekend on Smith Mountain Lake in Va. confirmed that it now runs like new (actually much better than new from what I can tell). Good luck!!
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