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  1. #1
    ktyamaha36's Avatar
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    Picked up my first Ultra 150 project today!! Need some tips!

    I picked up this super clean 2004 ultra today. Story behind it is that it ran great. Rode a few times a year and somehow got water in the engine before it was put up for the winter. Summer comes along it was froze up. Engine was pulled down to find the crank rusted solid.

    Ski has 22 hours and There is not a scratch on it. Always garaged.
    I bought it as is. I have it all layed out ready to peace together

    A few questions from some ultra experts.

    I owned a 2002 Ultra brand new and sold it as 128HRS and Ive missd it ever since. Never had one issue with it other than change the plugs and fuel filter. Bone stock Never touched the carbs. It is by far one of the fastest, most fun to ride out of any ski Ive owned. I would like to squeeze some more power/speed out of this one. What are you guys opinions on Aftermarket heads, pipes? Carb jetting, Impeller/nozzle, etc for tweaking one of these yet keeping it reliable. I dont mind running high octane fuel as I have the option of Av gas or the 110octane if needed. Keep the oil pump or ditch it and run premix?

    Where to have this crank rebuilt or buy new? What pistons to run?

    Heres some pics..Click image for larger version. 

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    What do you guys think?


  2. #2
    btldigger's Avatar
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    Nice find!

    The bad news is looks like you need a crank. You might get it freed up and clean but im afraid you would be ridding a time bomb. I would give crankworx a call and see what they could do with it.

    Since you need a full rebuild anyway you might look at doing one of skiworx level1.5 flat top setups. That would have either skiworx or ada heads so you could change domes as needed.

    Or if you really want to go big there is a nice deal on a set of fp tripples and novi 48's in the classifieds section. If I was going tripples I would probably run stock heads mabe with a slight cut.

    To give you some more ideas you may want to check out the threads in my sig. The mods thread has lots of good info.

    Some more info such as water conditions where you plan to ride and what exactly you want out of it will help us to guide you. Things like pure top speed or acceleration and hookup all make a difference on how to set the ski up.

  3. #3
    ktyamaha36's Avatar
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    I Ride in Fresh water lakes only. Smooth to mild chop. I want to keep it around 1,000-1,500 to build. But Have the internals beefed up enough to handle some bigger carbs and tripples down the road when I have the cash. But for now I would like to get more air/fuel In and out of the stock carbs/exaust. What F/A's are good for the price? Jetting? I would like to mod the stock waterbox if possible or run a aftermarket to gain some but mainly make it where I can hear it!! Would you reccoment running one of the cranks SBT offers? What about Pistons? Re Ring the stock or go with aftermarket? The Cylinders are stock bore and still look brand new with cross hatches still in the walls.

  4. #4
    ktyamaha36's Avatar
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    Also Im mainly intrested in high speed runs. Even if the Impeller pitch is a little steep for stock carbs as I will eventually be running larger ones.

  5. #5
    btldigger's Avatar
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    Sbt makes me nervouse they might be ok but their engines have a bad rep in ultras. Since your entertaining the idea of tripples later I would stay away. Stick to a reutable shop like crankworks.

    For carbs and f/a's watch out the cv carbs are known to be touchy. a small change can lean you out and burn a piston. I would send them up to steve at skiworx for the cv carb mod. He can mod your stock fa or set up a set of proks to work with the stock cv carbs. Check out the 18 page thread about removing an ada head in the 2 stroke performance section. That is what we suspect killed atleast 1 piston in that motor.

    You could mod the stock waterbox or find one of the baffeled tdr boxes. I would stay away from the powerspray tdr, its too loud by most accounts.

    From your pics atleas 1 of those pistons has some bad corossion on it. I wouldnt reuse it. If the othes are ok then you could replace the 1 with a factory piston and put all new rings in it. If the wrist pins and bearings are rusted I would do a complete top end kit.

    My best suggestion would be to look at the econo level 1. That would get your stock heads cut, cv carb mod, stinger mod, repitched stock prop and a pump blueprint with new bearings and seals. You could probably do with out the pump work other than the repitch sine you have an 04 it has the later bearings and seals. They last much longer than the early models. You could do that with a new wsm top end kit and still leave you room in your budget to get a crank. Here is a link to that kit http://ultra150.yuku.com/topic/2970

    The econo kit is whats in my 00 project along with some of the mods from the mods thread. As you can see from my sig that ski runs 68.5. Not bad for doing it on a budget. I got that one much like yours except I had a good crank but a bad cylinder.
    Ithink with a few more tweaks it could get real close or possibly over 70 in the right conditions.

  6. #6
    ktyamaha36's Avatar
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    I cleaned up the pistons today. Just to get a better look to see if they are still useable. They seem to still be in good shape? I know for a fact the wrist pins and needle bearings need replaced. The cylinders are in excellent shape. Now I just have to get the funds in order to get a crank on the way
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  7. #7
    ktyamaha36's Avatar
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    Update: Pics

    I finally got a crank in!! I also bought new wrist pins/ bearings / clips from Kawasaki. I left all the old seals on the crank before sending it off to get re-worked. Now I have some new crank seals but not sure which end they go on. I wont have a chance to drop the crank in the case for another day or so. Sure does make me happy seeing all the pieces laying there ready to go back together!! Anyone have any Input on things to check/inspect before I put this together? As far as sealing the cases together. I do not have any "Honda/Yama Bond" But was told that Permatex makes some called "The Right Stuff" that is used often and works just as good? I just want to make sure its done right the first time!!
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  8. #8
    ktyamaha36's Avatar
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    moving along putting this engine back together... I have the Cylinders on ready to bolt the heads up. being that I didnt take this engine apart, I really dont know how it goes back together..lol Can anyone tell me which head goes where? They ARE numberd 1 2 3 but Im not sure which side (MAG/PTO) is #1..

    Also, there is a small ring that is recessed, ( See pic) I know this goes on one end of the crank but again not sure which side. Any Ideas?


    What is the best Step by step Process to getting the engine back into the hull easily? It looks to me that when they removed the engine, they left the carbs attatched to the intake manifold. Can I put the carbs back on before dropping the engine back in or will there be clearance issues? the oil lines/fuel lines are still attatched to the carbs. Also, What about the exaust manifold? On before install or after?
    Thanks guys!
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  9. #9
    btldigger's Avatar
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    The head with the odd cooling fitting goes on #1 or the cylinder nearest the front. That ring you are asking about goes on the front of the crank against the starter clutch. If I recall corectly there are 2 and a bearing that looks like a large wrist pin bearing. Are those factory crank seals? Something doesnt look quite right about them. Be sure to check that you have them installed in the right direction.

    You can go ahead and install the intake, exhaust manifold, water log, starter.

    Make sure you line the balancer gears up on their marks. The crank has marks as do the gears on the crank, then they have marks that align with marks on the balancer gears. If you get it wrong the motor will vibrate bad.

  10. #10
    ktyamaha36's Avatar
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    I Lined up the marks on the gear from the crankshaft and the counter ballancer before I sealed the case. As far as putting the gear on the end of the crank correctly, The only mark I saw on the crank to line up with the mark on the gear was on the end of the crankshaft.(See First pic) I hope That was right!! I need a manual!! lol It looks like I will also need to line up the other one when I install the flywheel. No they are not kawi OEM seals. I got them from SBT (They are local to me and I needed them quick).

    Another concern I have is the rings are scratching the cyl wall weird when I turn the engine over by hand. You can see the X hatches and now where the rings are putting scrathes in the walls. They dont look to be even. ( See pics) Is this normal?
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